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Removing NSS


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I need to remove the NSS to get the top tranny line connector out. I removed the nut and the star washer and it still wouldnt slide off. The FSM didnt say to remove anything else (except the plug). I didnt want to pry on it too much. Am I suppose to remove the adjuster bolt too?

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you need to put the nut almost all the way back on in order to remove it, then use that and HEFTY amounts of lube (not wd40, PBblaster) on it applied at least once a day to the spindle for a few days before you try to pull it off.

 

anyways...I see no reason to pull the NSS to get the connector out...the connector is a quick-connect and can be removed using a socket once the trans line is out.

 

if you're doing it because of a broken clip in the quick-connect, I'd just get in there with a small screw driver or likewise and break it out.

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you need to put the nut almost all the way back on in order to remove it, then use that and HEFTY amounts of lube (not wd40, PBblaster) on it applied at least once a day to the spindle for a few days before you try to pull it off.

 

anyways...I see no reason to pull the NSS to get the connector out...the connector is a quick-connect and can be removed using a socket once the trans line is out.

 

if you're doing it because of a broken clip in the quick-connect, I'd just get in there with a small screw driver or likewise and break it out.

 

Why no PB? :dunno: I used it on the 97XJ to get it off, one squirt, 5 secs, and it slid off. I wiped it off real quick and I had no problems, switch worked fine.

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you need to put the nut almost all the way back on in order to remove it, then use that and HEFTY amounts of lube (not wd40, PBblaster) on it applied at least once a day to the spindle for a few days before you try to pull it off.

 

anyways...I see no reason to pull the NSS to get the connector out...the connector is a quick-connect and can be removed using a socket once the trans line is out.

 

if you're doing it because of a broken clip in the quick-connect, I'd just get in there with a small screw driver or likewise and break it out.

 

Why no PB? :dunno: I used it on the 97XJ to get it off, one squirt, 5 secs, and it slid off. I wiped it off real quick and I had no problems, switch worked fine.

 

 

it's meant to say to use pbblaster not wd40. wd40 promotes rust in tight spaces.

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you need to put the nut almost all the way back on in order to remove it, then use that and HEFTY amounts of lube (not wd40, PBblaster) on it applied at least once a day to the spindle for a few days before you try to pull it off.

 

anyways...I see no reason to pull the NSS to get the connector out...the connector is a quick-connect and can be removed using a socket once the trans line is out.

 

if you're doing it because of a broken clip in the quick-connect, I'd just get in there with a small screw driver or likewise and break it out.

 

Thanks, Pat. All of the quick-disconnects seem to have become don't-disconnects. Since the disconnect won't disconnect the only way to get a socket on would be to cut the tranny line. If I pull the NSS I will have enough room to get a wrench on it. The tranny connector and the NSS have been soaking in PB blaster since early yesterday. The new connectors I got have an o-ring on them so I don't think I will need any type of thread sealer.

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how wd 40 displaces moisture...

 

try putting it in any sort of cable, then let it sit a few weeks...try it once. I lost my front teeth (which are now fake) because my brake cables (2 weeks old and lubed with wd40) seized up at the skate park...not fun

 

 

Thanks, Pat. All of the quick-disconnects seem to have become don't-disconnects. Since the disconnect won't disconnect the only way to get a socket on would be to cut the tranny line. If I pull the NSS I will have enough room to get a wrench on it. The tranny connector and the NSS have been soaking in PB blaster since early yesterday. The new connectors I got have an o-ring on them so I don't think I will need any type of thread sealer.

 

lol. get a box wrench (large wrench such as what you use on brake lines) and use that.

 

much easier.

 

or a vice grips.

 

unscrew, then fix once it's off.

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how wd 40 displaces moisture...

 

try putting it in any sort of cable, then let it sit a few weeks...try it once. I lost my front teeth (which are now fake) because my brake cables (2 weeks old and lubed with wd40) seized up at the skate park...not fun

 

 

Thanks, Pat. All of the quick-disconnects seem to have become don't-disconnects. Since the disconnect won't disconnect the only way to get a socket on would be to cut the tranny line. If I pull the NSS I will have enough room to get a wrench on it. The tranny connector and the NSS have been soaking in PB blaster since early yesterday. The new connectors I got have an o-ring on them so I don't think I will need any type of thread sealer.

 

lol. get a box wrench (large wrench such as what you use on brake lines) and use that.

 

.

 

much easier.

 

or a vice grips.

 

unscrew, then fix once it's off.

 

I got it off. It is a 7/8 box wrench so there wasnt much room for it. It would hit the floor board or be against that torx bolt in front of the connector or hit the rod for the NSS. Once I removed the NSS I was able to get it on up by where the harness was. Last resort was to cut the line since I was replacing them anyway. But I couldnt have the truck out of commission much longer. If i cut the line and still couldnt get it off i was screwed, if i left it on i could run a soft line up front to connect the two lines (one from upper rad hole and where i cut the main line behind the disconnect) and be able to drive it

 

Anyone think its a good idea to wrap some tape around the disconnect to prevent dirt and gunk from getting in there and jamming them up.

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I got it off. It is a 7/8 box wrench so there wasnt much room for it. It would hit the floor board or be against that torx bolt in front of the connector or hit the rod for the NSS. Once I removed the NSS I was able to get it on up by where the harness was. Last resort was to cut the line since I was replacing them anyway. But I couldnt have the truck out of commission much longer. If i cut the line and still couldnt get it off i was screwed, if i left it on i could run a soft line up front to connect the two lines (one from upper rad hole and where i cut the main line behind the disconnect) and be able to drive it

 

Anyone think its a good idea to wrap some tape around the disconnect to prevent dirt and gunk from getting in there and jamming them up.

 

 

cool!

 

don't forget to clean the NSS and lube it with plenty of dialectric grease before you put it back on

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