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Rear main seal stuck


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If you take all the main caps out, you may get it out. (Make sure position and orientation are the same when you put them back in-they should be numbered)

 

I suggest NOT using any sort of power tool whatsoever, one scratch and it's shot. I believe there's a tool specifically to remove/install that piece without pulling the crank.

 

Only one I've done, the motor was on a stand, upside-down, and I was able to lift the crank up a bit to get it out.

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If you take all the main caps out, you may get it out. (Make sure position and orientation are the same when you put them back in-they should be numbered)

 

I suggest NOT using any sort of power tool whatsoever, one scratch and it's shot. I believe there's a tool specifically to remove/install that piece without pulling the crank.

 

Only one I've done, the motor was on a stand, upside-down, and I was able to lift the crank up a bit to get it out.

 

Scratch on the crank I assume? I put a little nick on the mating surface between the block and the main bearing cap right where the bottom half of the seal lies, but I'm hoping that the recommended RTV that goes there will fill any irregularities like the one I just created. Also, there was a small chip of metal already missing on the metal lip that is between that ring on the crankshaft and the "housing" for the upper half of the rear main seal. Kind of hard to describe, but I could take a picture if necessary. Wondering if that missing metal is the reason for the leak at the seal in the first place and if replacing the seal will help at all...If it doesn't, I don't see much of a choice but a whole new block...

 

It might become easier if you merely loosen the cap bolts. :yes:

 

And that's the crank you're hammering near. Being focused and precise with your violence is highly recommended. :thumbsup:

 

The crank was unharmed in the process, but like I said above, the block took a little bit of a beating. The main bearing journal on this crank didn't look so hot, though.

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I hope you installed the double lipped style seal. Take it from someone who didn't. My crank had a slight groove from where the old seal rode. Being one for instant gratification, I installed the single lip type ( had to get the thing bank together pronto). A month later started leaking again. :mad:

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I hope you installed the double lipped style seal. Take it from someone who didn't. My crank had a slight groove from where the old seal rode. Being one for instant gratification, I installed the single lip type ( had to get the thing bank together pronto). A month later started leaking again. :mad:

 

Yes, I installed the Fel-Pro double lipped seal. However, my crankshaft had a nice groove all around it from the previous seal so I'm not having high hopes for this one either. Also, a piece of metal chipped off the edge of the "groove" for the seal on the block side. That really has me worried like it could have been the reason for my massive oil leak in the first place, but other than replacing the block, I don't really know what else to do. Just crossing my fingers and hoping for the best at this point.

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  • 2 weeks later...

It's been a couple weeks since the rear main seal replacement and while the leak hasn't gone away, it's substantially better. However, it has become very obvious (with a clean oil pan) that the o-ring on the oil filter adapter is also bad and is leaking oil down the block, onto the starter, and onto the transmission cover plate, which eventually drips to the ground. I'm going to pick up the o-ring today and hopefully swap it in sometime this week to see if it finally cures my oil leak problem.

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