Rear axle shaft question

[Akula69]

I am experiencing a slight clicking sound from the rear axle as I turn a sharp left turn at slow speed. I have never replaced an axle shaft, but believe the process to be relatively straightforward. However, I wondered if someone here had any experience in identifying when the axle shaft should be replaced.

 

Does the axle shaft have to be removed and checked for measurements to spec? (as I cannot find any bearing assembly in there to support it). If so, does anyone have a listing of the specs (i.e. Diameter of contact surfaces, etc.)?

 

Thanks

 

Jake

[Geonovast]

I'm assuming you have a D44 because of the metric ton package?

[ren]

The shaft itself should not need replacement, just the bearing and keeper. To change the bearing, use something to cut the lock ring and the bearing off of the shaft. I prefer the use of a Dremel tool and thin cutoff wheels. The new bearing will need to be pressed on, along with the lock ring. As for "how" to pull the axleshaft itself, after you remove the tire and brake drum, You should see a hole in the axle flange. That is for access to the 4 nuts holding the shaft in the housing. I "think" that they are 9/16ths', but they might be different. Oh, and make sure that the new bearing is greased before installing into the housing.

[Geonovast]

When I pulled the plates off my 88 D35 they were 14mms, which are close to 9/16.

 

I couldn't remember if D44s were that way or if they were C-clip..

[ren]

The D-44 has always (as a REAR axle) been a NON C-CLIP design, until the latest Bastardization of the Wrongler. The C-Clip D-35 started in late 1990, so a safe bet is that 1991 and later ARE C-clippers. You can tell the NON from the C-clip by looking on the back of the housing flange/backing plate. If you see a flat bar, and NOT a round studhead, then you are looking at a NON C-clip.

[Akula69]

The shaft itself should not need replacement, just the bearing and keeper. To change the bearing, use something to cut the lock ring and the bearing off of the shaft. I prefer the use of a Dremel tool and thin cutoff wheels. The new bearing will need to be pressed on, along with the lock ring. As for "how" to pull the axleshaft itself, after you remove the tire and brake drum, You should see a hole in the axle flange. That is for access to the 4 nuts holding the shaft in the housing. I "think" that they are 9/16ths', but they might be different. Oh, and make sure that the new bearing is greased before installing into the housing.

 

K...I understand what you are saying, but where can you get the bearing and the keeper? all I ever see is the entire shaft for sale. And...how would I know it was bad? loosness? play? scoring? I guess I was thinking I'd need to use a micronmeter to check clearances or something....

[Wildman]

Here's a How-to on the D44 bearing replacement -

 

http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/d44/d44-1.htm

 

And both Advance and Rockauto carry the bearings and seals.