Pete M Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 I would call the manufacturer on that one. They would know for sure. :thumbsup: My guess is POR goes on first since you need it against the steel to be effective. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phenryiv1 Posted February 5, 2009 Author Share Posted February 5, 2009 I would call the manufacturer on that one. They would know for sure. :thumbsup: My guess is POR goes on first since you need it against the steel to be effective. That si what I thought. Actually, once I read the POR website (and I still plan to call them), it appears that they have a kit that inclused mesh but no resin or hardener, implying that they might just recommend that you put down a coat of the por 15 around the hole (to hold the mesh in place) and lay the mesh on/over the hole then go back over the mesh with more POR-15. It may be that the POR-15 dries hard enough with the mesh integrated with the coating to form itself into a quasi-fiberglass patch. But I will call for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phenryiv1 Posted February 11, 2009 Author Share Posted February 11, 2009 Just to post a little resolution to this: This past weekend, I was able to do the POR-15 repair on the floor. I embedded fibrerglass mesh between the coats of POR-15 (per recommendation from the POR-15 tech support) and I was very impressed with the strength in the end. I also did some fiberglass mesh and POR15 on the underside. The POR-15 dried so hard that I could drive a nail with the paintbrush that I used to apply the product the previous day. I tapped and beat and poked around after allowing it to cure for 48 hours and it was very solid. I jumped the gun a bit and drove the truck yesterday (I had nto driven it more than 10 feet since installing new F&R shocks, a new track bar and mount, and my 30" Goodyears on Gamblers), and I still have one more coat to do on the bottom. I also need to do the undercoating to have it finished. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbhill Posted February 12, 2009 Share Posted February 12, 2009 por 15 is a must for anything rusty. it will fade if in direct sunlight and not topcoated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brubakes Posted February 12, 2009 Share Posted February 12, 2009 Anyone know an average rate to have the floor pans replaced if you cannot do the work yourself? I'm not a welder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phenryiv1 Posted February 12, 2009 Author Share Posted February 12, 2009 Anyone know an average rate to have the floor pans replaced if you cannot do the work yourself? I'm not a welder. Not counting the pan itself, I had quotes of $60-100 to do the welding. It would still need to be seamsealed and then painted/coated on top and bottom. I went the POR-15 and fiberglass mesh route after thoroughly cleaning the surfact rust and then being able to take a hammer to the remaining material without it failing. If it was that strong, it will last me at least a few years. I must say, though, that that is based on me having remedied the problem (cause of the rust). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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