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Heater Control Valves and Open rad System


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I converted over from the closed radiator system to the open system last year. This change also effects the hearter control valve and hose routing. So you have to be a bit creative with what valve you put in place. I made the mistake of going with a plastic body valve. It self distructed this summer so I want to go back with a metal body valve this time. Anyone one else done this mod? What valve did you go with? Now that it has been some time I can't remember if it is a vac on/ closed valve or a vac off/ close valve.

 

James and Sugarfoot

88 4.0 4x4 Pioneer

Austin TX.

 

GO HORNS

 

In South Austin we have a saying about why we live here. It's "We're all here cause we're not all there."

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Found part of my answer here. I guess it pays to look around. I still would like some others feed back from their experiance of changing from Closed to Open System.

 

 

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Post subject: Re: Blower motorPosted: Sun Nov 16, 2008 7:26 pm

 

 

Comanche Addict

 

 

Joined: Fri Aug 31, 2007 10:35 pm

Posts: 2696

Location: Shiloh, NC And on a side note about the vacuum controlled valve on the heater hose.

When there is no vac to it, it defaults to always open, or flowing of coolant.

 

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KEEP IT SIMPLE

"Back in Black"

1989 2wd 4.0L 5spd MJ Eliminator

1996 4wd 4.0L AW4 XJ Classic

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In the 1997 models and up the water control valve was eliminated entirely. I junked mine also and installed a set of 1997+ heater hoses, and plugged the vacuum line. I get better heat now, no ill effects from excess heat in the cabin in summer, and the constant flow thru the heater core adds a bit more coolant volume to the system. Junk the valve James. :cheers:

 

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How timely.

 

I was working on the vacuum lines yesterday and the daymn plastic valve broke, spraying my left hand with 210 degree water. :fs1: Needless to say I spent the rest of the day inside with an ice pack.

 

today - I cut the valve out of the system...never to return.

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