SuicidalPenguin Posted June 29, 2006 Share Posted June 29, 2006 Hey guys! I've been registered for a little while but never posted. I'm new to Jeeps (was strictly Chevy) and i have a question for you MJ guru's. The thing is overheating like mad , it sticks in red even when it's 10* outside (rad is bad, gotta get that fixed with electric fans) which would make this 30* weather even worse. Thing leaks oil from headgasket, i have the headgasket just need time. On top of that, the transmission, which i recently indentified as the dreaded pukegoat, shifts extremely hard. I'm checking the oil level tomorrow. I drove to Mopac the other day (only about a 20 min drive doing a max of 60kmh), and when i started my truck to come back it's idle rose to 2000rpm (guessing it's a vacuum problem, the CCV crap is pretty worn out) but came back down after a slight tap on gas. Then while pulling out of parking lot, it kept wanted to stall in first. It needed a lot of gas just to keep it from stalling. After that it started hesitating in 3rd and 4th gear. The thing is making a bunch of odd noises, can't identify alot of them. I know a few are from suspension and steering. There's a slight knock up front, there's clicking from the valve cover when it shuts off, and there's a load of clicking coming from the console and you can feel the transfer case lever vibrating to the clicks. I'm not sure what else i can throw into this post. If i start fixing the stuff i mentioned (headgasket, CCV stuff, cooling, check oil) would it return to normal? Am i just nervous when it comes to these Jeep engines? It's the 4.0 with about (i'm guessing) 250,xxx km's. Thanks, Kyle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87manche Posted June 29, 2006 Share Posted June 29, 2006 Overheating is pretty common with MJs and XJ's the radiator and cooling system is barely adequate when it's functioning perfectly. One thing goes bad and it's hosed. Does it overheat while cruising down the higway or just at idle? If just at idle I'd say fan clutch, if on the highway then I say you have a flow problem, and that's a plugged Rad, worn pump or stuck thermostat.You might also want to check the pressure bottle for craks and leaks, and make sure that the cap is sealing properly. A pressure leak will be detrimental to the system. The pukegoat sucks, give it some fresh oila dn see what happens, and be on the lookout for an AX-15 to replace it with. Start gathering parts, it's not a matter of if the french trans fails, it's when. if you've got suspension noises up front check all the tie rod ends and rubber bushings. Don't forget the trackbar, it's very important. I'm willing to bet that all the rubber bushings are shot up front. New control arms are thankfully really cheap with bushings already installed. look for Crown automotive ones, they're about $20 a piece. Do they use salt up there? if so then plan on cutting a few of those bolts, they're metric and grade 10.9, I can't remember what size. I had to do three of them when I did my lift. Have replacements on hand and a good supply of sawzall blades, it took me about 2 blades per bolt, those buggers are tough. High idle is either a vac leak, TPS or IAC. You might want to test the TPS with an analog meter and clean out the throttle body. Check the gasket and the torque on the manifolds when you do the headgasket. I6 engines have such long manifolds that they tend to leak when the bolts come a little loose. When you trake off the manifolds make sure you put back the reverse domed washers. If you damage them or they fall apart from rust then you can find replacements as "belleville" washers. The clicking in the console sounds alot like the pueguots doing. Drive to the top of a big hill, put it in gear and push the clutch in. Roll it down the hill. if the clicking exists with the engine disengaged from the driveline then it's soemthing in the driveline for sure. i'd check the u-joints in the driveshafts, and then I'd suspect the trans before the t-case. Check the T-case chain for slack though, they make a clicking noise when the chain slips. The 4.0 is a tank, I've got 251K miles on mine, and it's not uncommon for them to hit 400+ before needing torn down. It all depends on how the previous owner took care of it. Hope this all helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuicidalPenguin Posted June 29, 2006 Author Share Posted June 29, 2006 Thanks for reply. The pump started leaking so i replaced it, and i guess i didn't get all the air out of the system cause 2 minutes of driving after i replaced it the thermostat shut closed so i replaced it. As for the highway driving, it doesn't overheat but it is dangerously close to the red for being at that speed. I'm looking into the 92+ cooling conversion with a 3 row rad and electric fans, that should be sweet for the temperatures up here. The stock rad looks real ugly. I'm gonna slap in some 2" spacers to level out the truck, so i'll check all the bushings and stuff then. I'm not sure on how the PO treated this thing, but i have a feeling i rescued it. He said he bought it off his boss 3 months before I bought it. The guy didn't even know how to open the hood (it was seized). The engine was very very dirty, i slammed 2 bucks at it during a car wash. How long would a headgasket take? I was looking at everything that i would have to take off and the amount of stuff in the compartment and figure up to 4 hours for the job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87manche Posted June 29, 2006 Share Posted June 29, 2006 get someone to help you with the headgasket job. That way you can remove the head with the manifolds still attached. It's much easier to get the manifolds off while they're on the bench. The lower bolts are a PITA to get at Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted June 29, 2006 Share Posted June 29, 2006 Don't forget that a 2" spacer lift will take the front end out of alignment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted June 29, 2006 Share Posted June 29, 2006 The thing is overheating like mad , it sticks in red even when it's 10* outside (rad is bad, gotta get that fixed with electric fans) which would make this 30* weather even worse. As usual, I am confused. If you know it has a bad radiator, why do you think electric fans are going to "fix" it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oizarod115 Posted June 30, 2006 Share Posted June 30, 2006 id check the coolant pressure bottle for cracks, mine had one near the bottom/back and it constantly ran almost red. new bottle, BAM 210. high idle? mine was at 1500-2000 after some stuff went wrong with my driving... don't ask, and it turned out to be the vacuum line across the top of the valve cover disconnected. good luck, hope i helped. -nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuicidalPenguin Posted June 30, 2006 Author Share Posted June 30, 2006 If you know it has a bad radiator, why do you think electric fans are going to "fix" it? Sorry, that was unclear on my part. I meant get that fixed (as in new rad) with electric fans (to keep it extra cool). I'm not sure if this would make a difference but the clicking coming from the console only happens in 2wd, it's non-existent in both 4hi and 4lo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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