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dana 30 and 35


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If you upgrade the shafts/joints in the 30, it should do fine with 33s. Just don't be stupid with the gas pedal. The 35 on the other hand, well, I'd start looking for a better choice, like an XJ/MJ Dana 44 or an Explorer 8.8 or a 97+ XJ 8.25.

 

What kind of wheeling are you looking for?

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Well, I'd advise making an Excel spreadsheet to keep track of you various options. Tally up the various costs and make sure you can do it under budget, and do that before you spend dime one. If you plan to be hard on your rig, then maybe the Dana 30 isn't right for you. But what are the costs of adapting and regearing that Grand Waggy front axle to match the Isuzu rear axle? How does that compare to buying and adapting the new JK rubicon axles? Don't forget that there are tons of little things that'll suck up your money real fast if you aren't prepared for them (especially if your new old truck needs some "updates" to the vital systems). The spreadsheet for my 88 build was quite long and extensive before I had even bought that donor Bronco. Unfortunately I can't share it, as it was lost with the old computer. :(

Keep yourself organized. It free and it'll save you money in the end. :thumbsup:

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yeah see I'm a heavy duty mechanic just starting so I'm not really familliar with what it is i need to do to change it like I'm thinking i might buy that lift kit from motion offroad the 6.5 inch one and tell him its the dana 44 so then all the ounting is simple all i have to do is mount up the new one as for the front i'll probly need all new steering won't i?

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800 bucks for a stock 8.8! The last one I bought was $100. I'd keep looking...

 

Installation is fairly straightforward. Stuff like welding on new perches, getting the right yoke adapter, fiddling with the brake lines, etc. It's a rear axle after all.

Search google for swaps into YJs. They are leaf sprung and the 8.8 swap is pretty much the same as ours.

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up here stuff isent cheap sadly i was hoping i could find a cherokke with a rear dana 44 so i could swap it out and put it in mine.

 

i have anouther question did the comanche chief always have the dana 44 cause i know where theres one sitting in a field.

 

do you know anyone who has a comanche project on here with like step by step how to install a dana 44 cause seriously that would be so sweet!

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No, the Chief will not automatically have a 44.

 

If the 44 came from an MJ, then it bolts right in. But the gearing will be atrocious. 3.07 and 3.55 are by far the most common ratios in MJ 44s. So if you did find one, plan on regearing costs. (also it's a 20 year old axle, so plan on new seals and possibly bearings etc.)

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I would wheel the 35 till you break it, or till a good deal falls in your lap. While it is not an increadibly strong axle, it is not a POS either if you treat it right. I have been running one on 33's for 6 years with no problems, and the last two years have had a stroker in there as well. If you treat it liek a D60 your will break it, if you acknowledge that it is a weak link and drive accordingly it will be fine.

 

 

side note: I have a Ford 9" ready to go in when it breaks

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I assume you are talking about an 8.8 or an isuzu rear. Basically you will need to move the spring perches, and get a companion flange. I reccommend getting a spicer one. Also with the 8.8 got to the dealer and get the u-bolts.. they are kinda special. Lots of ppl try to adapt their brake cable to make the parking brake work. I recommend by a line lock from summit or jegs and install that.

 

The 9" unless it came from an early bronco, is a different width.

 

For the front find a waggy d44 and buy a truss from a reputable company and wheel.

 

I personally use a d30 with a few mods. Alloy usa shafts, LCA skid plates, with no issues. BTW I am abusive on my stuff

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. Lots of ppl try to adapt their brake cable to make the parking brake work. I recommend by a line lock from summit or jegs and install that.

 

The 9" unless it came from an early bronco, is a different width.

 

1. Do not use a line lock as an E-brake. If you lose your hydraulics you want a brake setup that will work without fluid. Line locks are not designed to be used as anything other than a holding system for burnouts. Use a cable system or a t-case brake, you want something that can be used to stop the vehicle as well as something that can hold it on a hill. I have seen more than one line lock stop holding when used as a parking brake. I would get a set of chocks before I used a line lock.

 

2)early f-100's have 9" that is the correct width as well. And some from larger merc's and lincoln's are about the right width with disc brakes, just more cutting and setup required.

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