Redramman Posted September 19, 2008 Share Posted September 19, 2008 I looked up a engine rebiuld kit for a 1990 2.5 4cyl. and come up with one for $790.00,it included new pistons.Won't know for sure what will be needed till engine is taken appart, but I wonder if anyone knows a good source for a cheaper engine rebiuld kit? Might end up just getting a gasket set and seperate parts but kits are normaly cheaper to buy.How much is a rebiult short block? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ICEBOX Posted September 19, 2008 Share Posted September 19, 2008 NAPA has a master kit for $494.00 part # is mkp-359-a Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redramman Posted September 19, 2008 Author Share Posted September 19, 2008 Thanks, I'll check that out. Just saw a short block for $990 but hope engine is not that bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redramman Posted September 19, 2008 Author Share Posted September 19, 2008 Just called Napa and they have a ring and bearing kit for $95.99,so depending on the engine thats the minimum$$ probably at least have to add timming chain .Hope the cam is ok. any way that puts the cost of parts at $100-$500 (or more) .Is there a NAPA site that lists prices? Can anyboby recomend a Machine Shop for machine work and magnafluxing head in the Livonia,Redford, Westland Michigan area? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjeff87 Posted September 19, 2008 Share Posted September 19, 2008 FYI, timing chain comes in a kit with the cam and crank sprockets (should all be replaced as an assembly anyway) and a new tensioner. IIRC, when I replaced mine last year it cost somewhere around $50. Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Motion Offroad Posted September 19, 2008 Share Posted September 19, 2008 Call me crazy, but if your going to drop $800 in a kit to rebuild your motor why don't you just swap in a 4.0L? I'm not here to bash the 2.5L, but I think I could swap in the 4.0L for less than $800. Just offering another opinion.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjeff87 Posted September 19, 2008 Share Posted September 19, 2008 funny you should mention that Motion....I'm about 3/4 of the way thru a 4.0 swap on mine right now (hope to get it fired this weekend). My budget was $500, and I'm just a tad over that now. But I did alot of extra parts replacement that weren't absolutely needed, just because I have the engine and tranny on a stand now. I probably could have dropped things in "as-is" for about $300-ish. My 2.5 was getting tired, and really wasn't comfortable pushing 33's.... Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redramman Posted September 19, 2008 Author Share Posted September 19, 2008 I hope that 2.5L is repairable for around $300 in parts. Want to try to keep 4cyl. for MPG truck is 2wd 5spd and we don't have hills to climb.It's my sons vehicle so I kind of like the fact that it keeps his top speed down to 80mph .This truck only shows 062000miles so I'm surprised compression was so low on #1cyl. lots of blow by had to put a hill-billy jug in ccv system. I'm thinking it must have run low on oil at one time??? Will 4.0 work with 4cyl trans? and D35 axle?(survive)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redramman Posted September 19, 2008 Author Share Posted September 19, 2008 If we did end up puting in 4.0 swap will 4cyl radiator still cool it? Motor mounts? and how many mpg could it get in 2wd 5spd. Comanche?This probably is best to do with a donner vehicle . I'd rather keep the 4cyl. if posible, or practical($). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjeff87 Posted September 19, 2008 Share Posted September 19, 2008 For a 4.0 swap, you'll need the following: -complete wiring harness and ECU -4.0 frame horns and motor mounts -all of the accessories on the 4.0 block (alternator, P/S pump, starter, etc) -new transmission (the 4 cyl. one won't bolt up and is too weak) -4.0 clutch assembly and flywheel (and pilot bearing) -new transfer case with 23 spline input, or swap a 23 spline input into your current 21 spline case (disregard this, just noticed you are 2WD) -4.0 radiator -4.0 fuel pump You'll also have to splice in the 4.0 fuel lines under the hood as the 2.5 ones are too short and have threaded fittings on the ends. You may also have driveshaft length issues too. I'm reinstalling the new driveline tomorrow and will see if my current shafts will work or not (they are not standard length to begin with). That's the short list.....not an "easy" job, but nothing that requires any fabrication, just alot of swapped in parts. With so few miles on your 2.5, I'd at least open it up and see what the problem is with #1. Did you do a leakdown test to see if the problem is in the head? Could be something as simple as a bent valve or damaged valve seat......but I've also seen a #1 on a 2.5 that had a hole burned through the top of the piston :nuts: Open her up and see what you are dealing with, and let us know what you find out. I lots of blow by had to put a hill-billy jug in ccv system ^^^that's funny right there^^^ :cheers: Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted September 19, 2008 Share Posted September 19, 2008 Many years ago I had an old 6-cylinder AMC that had sat for too long and the rings seized to the cylinder walls. I needed to get it on the road and I had no money. I popped off the head, used a ridge reamer to cut the carbon ring off the tops of the bores, tapped the pistons with a wooden block to free them up, and then ran each piston all the way down in the bore and honed the cylinders with the pistons in place. Then I put on a new head gasket and buttoned it up. It ran fine. Was it the "right" way to do it? Heck no, but it was an expedient way to get the thing running. The car wasn't worth what it would have cost to put in even a junkyard engine, so this was worth a try. New pistons are certainly the "right" way to go with an old engine, but I have rebuild a couple just honing the bores and putting new rings on the original pistons. If the engine has only 62,000 miles on it, the bores shouldn't be badly out of round so, unless one of them is too deeply scored to hone out, a "quicky" rebuild with just new rings and bearings should do the job for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redramman Posted September 19, 2008 Author Share Posted September 19, 2008 Yes I will check the engine out some more ,I'll have to rerun the compression test last time I did not have throttle open and I forgot to try oil in cylinders to check rings. #1was 60psi, #2,#3,and#4 had 100psi still low overall but if they all had 100psi it would run better.I was thinking about the hole in piston posibility ,one of my friends had a truck with a hole in the piston caused by a hex nut that fell into cylinder. :eek: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
summerinmaine Posted September 19, 2008 Share Posted September 19, 2008 Yes I will check the engine out some more ,I'll have to rerun the compression test last time I did not have throttle open and I forgot to try oil in cylinders to check rings. #1was 60psi, #2,#3,and#4 had 100psi still low overall but if they all had 100psi it would run better.I was thinking about the hole in piston posibility ,one of my friends had a truck with a hole in the piston caused by a hex nut that fell into cylinder. :eek: Unless you had the engine warm and the throttle wide open, the absolute numbers are relatively meaningless, but the differential for cyl #1 is problematic. But until you do a leakdown test, or at least the oil trick, you can't tell where the trouble lies. If you think about it, that kind of differential ring wear in 62K miles is strange, and I'd be more inclined to suspect the head or the valves. It could be as simple as a bit of crud stuck on the valve seat. Have you tried the water cure? :brows: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redramman Posted September 19, 2008 Author Share Posted September 19, 2008 Thanks for the info, yea it was not warmed up much last time .I'll hook the air compressor to the tester hose to listen for leakage at exhaust ,throttle body and I guess oil cap or oil dipstick . The dumm part is I forgot all that last time untill I was putting tools away and only then noticed instructions with the compression tester.At least oil has No coolant and coolant has No oil mixed in. :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redramman Posted September 19, 2008 Author Share Posted September 19, 2008 SummerinMain, Whats the water cure ?Hydrolock the engine till a rod pokes through the block and then you know for sure it needs an engine??? :brows: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
summerinmaine Posted September 20, 2008 Share Posted September 20, 2008 SummerinMain, Whats the water cure ?Hydrolock the engine till a rod pokes through the block and then you know for sure it needs an engine??? :brows: If done improperly, yes! :D But if done properly, just think of it as waterboarding for automobiles. ;) It's a shade tree mechanic's way of burning the carbon buildup off of the piston and valves/seats. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted September 20, 2008 Share Posted September 20, 2008 You can do the same thing with Marvel Mystery Oil, Seafoam, or a product GM dealers (used to) sell under the clever name of "Top Engine Cleaner." Don't do any of those in your driveway if you live in a compact subdivision or neighborhood. It's mind-boggling just how MUCH smoke a little bit of Marvel Mystery Oil can create. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redramman Posted September 20, 2008 Author Share Posted September 20, 2008 So it's not Chinese water touture after all :D I just warm up engine take air hose cover off throttle body open throttle a bit and spray in water mist with spray bottle right? or do you spray into brake booster vacume hose?(never done it just herd of it).Also has anyone tried motor flush that you add to oil then idle engine for a few minutes then change oil? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
summerinmaine Posted September 20, 2008 Share Posted September 20, 2008 So it's not Chinese water touture after all :D I just warm up engine take air hose cover off throttle body open throttle a bit and spray in water mist with spray bottle right? Pretty much. I've heard the recommendation that you run the motor at a constant 2,500rpm or so (to avoid stalling). Not too much water, of course, just a spray every 15 secs or so. I've done it on carbs, never on FI so YMMV. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FxRacing282 Posted September 21, 2008 Share Posted September 21, 2008 So it's not Chinese water touture after all :D I just warm up engine take air hose cover off throttle body open throttle a bit and spray in water mist with spray bottle right? or do you spray into brake booster vacume hose?(never done it just herd of it).Also has anyone tried motor flush that you add to oil then idle engine for a few minutes then change oil? ive ran the engine cleaner crap. it work for sure. put it in at about 1,500 miles after recent oil change and it came out black as can be. asked my go to guy when i can't figure something out about it and he tried it, smelled it, and said use diesel fuel instead. a quart of the cleaner is $4. diesel is $4 a gallon. for the water, i wouldn't say a shady mechanics way, more like an economical way. when you do it just hold it wide open and pour the water in. itl spit and sputter and maybe even puke in your face, but itll clean it out. just curious, why would you want to take out compression booster? your not pinging are you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redramman Posted September 21, 2008 Author Share Posted September 21, 2008 No, I was just thinking that the large vacume hose that atatches to Brake power booster could be temperarely disconected to spray in watter in vacume hose instead of throttle body,then Reconect hose,but its probably a dumb idea since I need one hand on throttle one on hose and a third hand to work spray bottle. No spark knock problem just low compression posibly carbon on a valve ,but I think its stuck rings or maybe hole in #1 piston. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FxRacing282 Posted September 21, 2008 Share Posted September 21, 2008 No, I was just thinking that the large vacume hose that atatches to Brake power booster could be temperarely disconected to spray in watter in vacume hose instead of throttle body,then Reconect hose,but its probably a dumb idea since I need one hand on throttle one on hose and a third hand to work spray bottle. No spark knock problem just low compression posibly carbon on a valve ,but I think its stuck rings or maybe hole in #1 piston. do a leakdown. if you still have low compression then its something in the heads Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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