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once again, currie control arms


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I'm about to lose my mind with this bolt on install, so far I am 2 weeks in and still don't have the arms installed. :roll:

Finally got all of the tools I needed to do the install, bolted up the back end of the lowers and went for the front, and it appears as though the axle has moved back about 2 inches on both sides in the past weeks, and I can't get the arms to line up in even there lowest setting, I set a stock one next to it for comparison, and it wouldnt even fit in the slots anymore either. What should I do to get the axle moved forward?

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Probably going to get crap for this but if your needing to pull the axle backwards, i'd strap it to the rear axle, or your hitch if you have one.

 

Makes me wonder why is the axle not moving? I've been able to move axles on my own and i only weigh 150 lbs... I still feel like i'm missing something there

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Get your self a large "PIPE" wrench. One that's big enough to fit your axle tube. than a small jack, I like a little bottle jack.

 

Put the wrench on the axle tube and position the jack under the handle. as you jack up, the wrench will rotate the entire axle until the bolts lignup. Insert bolts repeat for opposite side and your done...

 

Beats the tar out of ratchet straps!!!!!! :brows: :brows: :brows:

 

CW

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yes, I ALWAYS have it up on stands when doing any work on the mj (or any vehicle for that matter) whatsoever.

 

This leads into my next little problem tonight:

 

Got the axle to move forward by jacking up the right side and just pulling on it a bit, installed the control arm, done.

Went to do the same thing on the other side and a seal failed in the jack (holding the axle only) and it came down and the jack hit the tie rod and sent it on a one way ride to crapville.

 

So now the driver side is still not lined up, and I need to get a tie rod b4 it can be driven again (and this is a DD)

 

:wall: soapbox.gif :headpop:

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I'm pretty booked this weekend, but if you still need help next weekend I'm game. It took me and my roommate about 4 hours to do the front lift on mine with new control arms and springs.

 

Thanks for the offer! I may have to take you up on that if I can't get it up and running by next week. Right now the search is on for a cheap tie rod locally that I can plug in to make it work until I upgrade that to currie setup as well.

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I'm pretty booked this weekend, but if you still need help next weekend I'm game. It took me and my roommate about 4 hours to do the front lift on mine with new control arms and springs.

 

Thanks for the offer! I may have to take you up on that if I can't get it up and running by next week. Right now the search is on for a cheap tie rod locally that I can plug in to make it work until I upgrade that to currie setup as well.

 

If you have to replace it anyway you should do the upgrade to the ZJ tie-rod. don't remember which year but someone should chime in with the answer. I think it is 95-97 V8.

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Yes. :cheers:

 

FYI brand new the complete v8 ZJ set up can be had for alittle over $200 at any auto parts store. I like using OEM parts because you can find replacements anywhere, as opposed to an after market set up, where you must use their components if something was to fail.

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UPDATE: tonight my dad helped me out with this and we ended up getting done, I picked up the zj tie rod and plugged it in, my dad came up with a great idea to get that axle centered (we used a 6 foot clamp and took it from the axle to the tow hook and clamped it together. that let us get the control arms in then to finish it out I plugged in the oil and temp senders (found them at Napa finally) and plugged in the guage cluster, I think Ill take a few days off the mj b4 I do the UCAs.

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