Search the Community

Sorry to post a new thread on this so soon , but I wanted to try to get a conversation going about the power steering pulley wheel on late-80s Comanches with 2.5L engines. My issue is minor but annoying. The power steering pump works, but it makes noise, specifically a clicking noise. I did a bunch of reading last night — including of old parts manuals. It seems like the 1987-1990 and possibly 1991 MJ, XJ and SJ’s with the 2.5L and power steering, came with a pulley wheel that is hard to find these days. The part number is 5300 3805 for those who are interested. I have some questions about this, and if we can answer them all in one thread, it could be really helpful to anyone troubleshooting their power steering on an ‘87-‘90 (and maybe ‘91) MJ, or other similar jeep with a 2.5L + power steering. QUESTIONS: 1) Does anyone know why other similar pulleys cause issues on the ‘87 and other adjacent years with the 2.5L? And before you answer, I understand that they don’t line up quite right. But does anyone have details or theories about how/why they don’t line up? Are they too far forward? Too far back? Is the angle off? Are the ribs on the pulley not quite right? All of the above? 2) If someone like me can’t find the exact OEM part or parts, has anyone had luck with making other parts fit? What did you do? Did you put spacers behind the bracket, for example? 3) In my case specifically, the pulley wheel I am currently using is marked G3 53002909. I think it came off a YJ, but maybe something else… with this particular pulley wheel, is there something I can do to fix my issue (which is a clicking sound)? DETAILS & PICS: - Pump Style: I have this style of pump. It’s the kind with a remote reservoir. - Belt Position on Pulley: Here is how the belt sits on the pulley. I tried scooting the wheel forward on the wheel, but it didn’t make a difference. Probably because the grooves hold it in place. - Rough Grooves: I was originally thinking that the rough spots on my pulley wheel’s grooves were playing a part in this. And maybe they are. I tried my best to file/sand them smooth. Before: After:

Hey all! Before I go through the trouble of pulling my power steering pump again, I wanted to consult the community. I've got a clicking sound that seems to be related to the belt, a pulley wheel, or something like that. I am fairly sure that I've isolated this issue. I'm 90-ish% sure it is something related to the power steering pump. So, over this past weekend, I replaced my pump. The symptoms seem to have improved, but it's not fixed. I don't want to drive the truck too much until I get this fixed, because I'm worried that this is an issue that will get worse over time. The Issue: Clicking Noise Speeds Up & Slows Down w/ RPM I first noticed this shortly after I had power steering installed. I would post a video, but I bet the moment I pull out my camera, it won't make the sound. Plus I find that engine noises don't translate that well over phone cameras. Essentially, it is a click. I don't think it's a chirp, although it's kinda like a chirp. But let's call it a click. And it speeds up or slows down with engine speed. What I've Done So Far - I've done the water/soap test. That seems to make the noise go away. - I've run the engine without the belt hooked up: No clicking noise. - I've replaced the pump (just the pump... not the gearbox). I did this because after I took the belt off, I observed that the pulley seemed to wobble a bit. Kinda like the pulley shaft was loose or not fitting right into the pump housing. I figured it might be a bad bearing. I thought about just replacing the bearing, but that seemed like a ton of work and I realized it could have been a busted vane or something else, so I just replaced the entire pump. What I Haven't Done I have not tried to run the belt without the Power Steering Pump connected. That would involve reinstalling the old flywheel that was in pump's place. I may try to do so next weekend. I have not tried to install a new belt or treat the belt with some kind of product. I have not tried a new pulley wheel (I think this my next step). The current pulley wheel is kinda beat up. My Questions Anyone Experience This? If so, were you able to fix it? Pulley Wheel Recommendations? I see a lot of different pulley wheels at a lot of different price points. Belt Tension: How much do I need to obsess over belt tension? Got recommendations for a quality belt tension measuring tool that won't break the bank? I've just been doing belt tension by the Goldilocks Method. Not too stiff not to loose. But maybe I need to step up my game. Pulley Alignment: How much do I need to obsess over pulley wheel alignment? My current theory is that the clicking has something to do with the pulley wheel itself. It's kind of beat up and has a few chips in the grooves. I also thought that maybe I need to be more obsessive over the alignment of the pulley wheels. I know that there are laser pulley wheel alignment tools but the ones I've seen so far are expensive! If I can rent one, I would be willing to do that to get the alignment perfect. Better Power Steering Pumps: I'm currently running a TruGrade pump #7081. I think that is what was in there previously, as well. It seems like there were two types of pumps that Jeep used originally. One was the "Ham Shaped" one. That is not the one I have. Picture of my pump is below. Maybe I need to get a different type of pump? This is the pump I'm currently running. Napa Auto Parts says this is the only one that fits my vehicle. There are other types of PS pumps (but maybe they are for the 4.0, and I have the 2.5). This is the other style of pump:

So i need to do my fuel pump and i found a write up on here with these part numbers. Just wanted to see if this stuff looks right to you guys. when I look up the Airtex number, it gives me a fuel strainer rather then a fuel pickup kit. Any ideas? Bosch 69302 fuel pump kit Airtex FS104 fuel pickup kit Spectra Lo01 Lockring Kit w/seal Thanks!

I have an 89' Comanche and the windshield washer pump isn't working. I've tested it and there is power going to it, I replaced the pump and that still didn't do it. When the leads are open or the pump is out, when I try to spray washer fluid the wipers will go but if the pump is in or the leads are jumped, the wipers don't move at all. I believe it's a wiring issue but I'm not sure if it is or how to fix it. Any ideas?

Hi. Got a '92 4.0 manche. Stock engine. I've been hearing my water pump squawk at me recently, so gotta start thinking about replacing it. All the research I do is confusing. All I'm trying to do is replace my stock water pump with something a little better if advised....like a Hepco. Is this an upgrade? I don't want to start a holy war. If it's sketchy and a stock one will do the trick more efficiently, where do I get one that won't poop out on me in 1 month? Is any old brand off Amazon okay? Mopar? Many thanks!

I’ve just finished reassembling my MJ after a solid year of partial restoration and am ready to get it inspected. When cranking, all I get is – no fuel is being injected. After probably a minute total of cranking over several hours, the cylinders and spark plugs have no traces of fuel. It provided a healthy pop when starting fluid was sprayed. First thing I did was pull the feed hose (feed and return are -6AN Aeroquip) from the ’94 rail and verify that it was providing sufficient supply when priming at key-on. All seems good. The CPS (new, so untested) appears to be functional as the spark plugs fire consistently. Injectors are reman/matched Bosch units, though I’ve also tried the old Bendix units since they’re handy. When checked, all of both sets provided impedances that should be accepted by the ECU. Although my multimeter can’t get a reading from the short pulse width provided by the ECU, it does display quick nonzero voltages when probing the injector pigtails while cranking. Fuel pump seems to be functional – previous owner installed it in September 2011 (~1500mi) and all I did was pull it to replace O-ring and lock ring when I installed the new rollover valves/grommets and new injection hose & clamps. It primes the system nicely at key-on. All underhood electrical grounds are new and I cleaned/regreased all just in case. I also cleaned out the bulkhead connector. All electrical systems work apart from the interior lights (may need to finish some underdash wiring) and the radio (which illuminates but doesn’t turn on – probably also a minor issue). All exterior lights, chimes/buzzers, and non-mechanical gauges function correctly. All sensors are new (though I wish I'd left the old ones in for the time being). This leaves me completely puzzled, but with a few possibilities. Bad injector ground(s). I can’t imagine that all of the signal wires have failed, though (if I remember correctly) the 1990 electrical manual refers to each injector grounding independently to the ECU. The 1987 diagrams show a common ground – I thought these were identical systems, but I guess the transition away from the C101 connector changed things. Zero/insufficient fuel pressure, possibly due to failed FPR (also new/untested), though I thought it would simply fail at the 31psi under-vacuum position. When bleeding the Schrader valve on the rail, it always has an air pocket that reappears very quickly and the valve never produces a strong spray, so I'm suspicious that the FPR is just looping fuel back through to the tank. But wouldn't the injectors do something, even under low rail pressure? Fried ECU. I originally had the battery ground going to the block, though this changed when we noticed that the ’87 Renix troubleshooting manual clearly shows the battery grounded to the starter. Doing this resulted in a very hot ground and a clicking starter (why it’s different from the manual and why the starter isn’t grounding through the block is beyond me). Returning the ground to the block fixed the issue and it cranks smoothly, but would the ECU be susceptible to damage with the bad ground? My next step is to put a gauge on the fuel rail and confirm that it’s pressurized properly. If that isn’t the case, I’ll swap out the Renix ECU for the Mopar-flashed TSB ECU, but is there anything else I’m missing? Any well-known Renix issues that could be behind this? Thanks! Bob a pre-disassembly shot...