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Hey guys/gals. So i started to build up my 87 Jeep MJ drum brakes and when i was tearing them down a few weeks ago, I noticed there were no parts inside except the driver side wheel cylinder. So I went to my local auto part store and ordered all that i could but am unsure of what all I need. Does anyone have a complete list or could they help me find a few of the levers/struts that go inside of it? I know I'm missing the park brake lever, the strut and spring and the shoe guide plate. Id like to mention it has a dana 35 with the 10inch x 2 1/4in brakes. Thank you in advance!

Just finished swapping a Chrys 8.25 for my D35. Difficult as it was, everything went more or less as expected, but now i have issue with the E brake. I was under the impression that the E brake functioned just like a normal drum brake, which means you need to adjust it until it drags slightly. I did exactly this, but when i tried to drive it, i made it 20ft before i felt/heard a minor clunk and the rear brakes drug heavily, one side locked up entirely. :eek: Does anyone have a pic of an 8.25 with discs? I want to make sure i have everything assembled correctly, especially the mechanism that actuates the E-brake. After loosening the E-brake significantly i can now drive around without the E brake suddenly hanging, but now i have another problem, actually a previous problem just made worse. With the brakes so loose my fancy new handbrake is almost useless. Even though it is extremely difficult to pull, it does very little to hold the truck. It does work, but you have to use two hands to pull it up far enough for it to do anything. I have it adjusted properly and every thing in the rear is new (rotors, hardward, shoes, pads, cables, the works) I know what the problem is, but i don't know how to solve it. In the new hardware kit i ordered came new springs, but the spring that keeps the shoes in place after you disengage the E-brake is absurdly/idiotically/ludicrously strong, i still don't know how i managed to get it into place. I think the answer is to source a slightly less stout spring, sound good? On a related note, I am really upset with the quality of the parts that came in hardware kit. Along with the spring i mentioned the brake shoe keeper clips were also so stiff they were near impossible to use and two of the little pins that go through the keeper clips (see pic below) broke. One immediately after it was installed and the other the day after install. It contributed to the E-brake locking up suddenly, super dangerous. CLIFF NOTES: Image of hardware setup for 8.25 with disc brakes, emphasis on E-brake acuator arm. How to adjust E-brake on 8.25 with disc brakes? E-brake does next to nothing because new spring is to strong. Can i just replace it with weaker spring? FPC.

So, since I've given up on that infamous '86 parking brake recall that I made a stink about late last year, I've decided to conjure up a way to fit an XJ hand brake into the old girl. My original plan for this was the '97+ console swap, accompanied by the corresponding hand brake. However, since I'm selling the MJ at some point in the near future, I'm limiting the amount of additional money spent on modifications. I have several early model XJ hand brakes at my disposal, as well as two center consoles, thus my reasoning for using them. After sitting around and brainstorming, and playing around with a cut off wheel, propane torch, vice, etc., I came up with this: Which will be bolted in and connected similarly like this (with a bit of modification on the crimped end): Do you guys think this will work well? My concern at the moment is whether or not there is enough range of motion to pull the cable tight enough to hold the brakes hard. Another picture: