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So i need to do my fuel pump and i found a write up on here with these part numbers. Just wanted to see if this stuff looks right to you guys. when I look up the Airtex number, it gives me a fuel strainer rather then a fuel pickup kit. Any ideas? Bosch 69302 fuel pump kit Airtex FS104 fuel pickup kit Spectra Lo01 Lockring Kit w/seal Thanks!

I have an 89' Comanche and the windshield washer pump isn't working. I've tested it and there is power going to it, I replaced the pump and that still didn't do it. When the leads are open or the pump is out, when I try to spray washer fluid the wipers will go but if the pump is in or the leads are jumped, the wipers don't move at all. I believe it's a wiring issue but I'm not sure if it is or how to fix it. Any ideas?

Hi. Got a '92 4.0 manche. Stock engine. I've been hearing my water pump squawk at me recently, so gotta start thinking about replacing it. All the research I do is confusing. All I'm trying to do is replace my stock water pump with something a little better if advised....like a Hepco. Is this an upgrade? I don't want to start a holy war. If it's sketchy and a stock one will do the trick more efficiently, where do I get one that won't poop out on me in 1 month? Is any old brand off Amazon okay? Mopar? Many thanks!

I’ve just finished reassembling my MJ after a solid year of partial restoration and am ready to get it inspected. When cranking, all I get is – no fuel is being injected. After probably a minute total of cranking over several hours, the cylinders and spark plugs have no traces of fuel. It provided a healthy pop when starting fluid was sprayed. First thing I did was pull the feed hose (feed and return are -6AN Aeroquip) from the ’94 rail and verify that it was providing sufficient supply when priming at key-on. All seems good. The CPS (new, so untested) appears to be functional as the spark plugs fire consistently. Injectors are reman/matched Bosch units, though I’ve also tried the old Bendix units since they’re handy. When checked, all of both sets provided impedances that should be accepted by the ECU. Although my multimeter can’t get a reading from the short pulse width provided by the ECU, it does display quick nonzero voltages when probing the injector pigtails while cranking. Fuel pump seems to be functional – previous owner installed it in September 2011 (~1500mi) and all I did was pull it to replace O-ring and lock ring when I installed the new rollover valves/grommets and new injection hose & clamps. It primes the system nicely at key-on. All underhood electrical grounds are new and I cleaned/regreased all just in case. I also cleaned out the bulkhead connector. All electrical systems work apart from the interior lights (may need to finish some underdash wiring) and the radio (which illuminates but doesn’t turn on – probably also a minor issue). All exterior lights, chimes/buzzers, and non-mechanical gauges function correctly. All sensors are new (though I wish I'd left the old ones in for the time being). This leaves me completely puzzled, but with a few possibilities. Bad injector ground(s). I can’t imagine that all of the signal wires have failed, though (if I remember correctly) the 1990 electrical manual refers to each injector grounding independently to the ECU. The 1987 diagrams show a common ground – I thought these were identical systems, but I guess the transition away from the C101 connector changed things. Zero/insufficient fuel pressure, possibly due to failed FPR (also new/untested), though I thought it would simply fail at the 31psi under-vacuum position. When bleeding the Schrader valve on the rail, it always has an air pocket that reappears very quickly and the valve never produces a strong spray, so I'm suspicious that the FPR is just looping fuel back through to the tank. But wouldn't the injectors do something, even under low rail pressure? Fried ECU. I originally had the battery ground going to the block, though this changed when we noticed that the ’87 Renix troubleshooting manual clearly shows the battery grounded to the starter. Doing this resulted in a very hot ground and a clicking starter (why it’s different from the manual and why the starter isn’t grounding through the block is beyond me). Returning the ground to the block fixed the issue and it cranks smoothly, but would the ECU be susceptible to damage with the bad ground? My next step is to put a gauge on the fuel rail and confirm that it’s pressurized properly. If that isn’t the case, I’ll swap out the Renix ECU for the Mopar-flashed TSB ECU, but is there anything else I’m missing? Any well-known Renix issues that could be behind this? Thanks! Bob a pre-disassembly shot...