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Found 3 results

  1. I ordered a replacement EGR valve from Rockauto, but it is significantly different from the factory one (much larger diaphram). It came without the vacuum transducer and does not have a port to connect the original vacuum transducer. From the limited information I can find, it looks like the transducer interlocks the EGR operation to only open when there is exhaust pressure. Has anyone ran this setup or similar EGR without the vacuum transducer?
  2. I inherited an 86 jeep comanche with a 2.5 tbi. It was mid project and has no vacuum lines. I have this vacuum diagram and I'm slowly measuring fitting/nozzle sizes to get the vacuum tube diameters but I'm having a problem when it comes to the egr system. Does anyone have a picture or a good description of the EGR/Canister Solenoid? Also do i need to install the vacuum tubes for the air conditioning or do I just need the tubes shown on the diagram? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  3. 88 4.0, auto. I tried some things to get my fuel gauge to work, mostly playing with ground wires and cleaning the big c101 connector above the brake master cylinder, and the engine started idling high, about 2k plus. I let it sit a few hours, came back and cleaned out the throttle body that wasn't dirty, shot some carb cleaner into the vacuum lines, removed and cleaned the TPS and idle switch. idles a little rough but it always has, Still stalls when I press the throttle. It doesn't die completely but it's damn close before it catches up and revs. When it was idling high it was doing the exact same thing it did when I ran it with the EGR disconnected and the port open. It sounded the same, there was an audible sucking sound from the engine bay. I have to suspect the EGR again. If I take off the intake and just have the throttle body open and I pull on the throttle cable, I can hear the EGR briefly, and then the revs pick up. EGR or something different?
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