88emjay

Thank you! That's the oring mod I was looking for. :D 88Emjay

If it were me I'd shorten the stalk and move them in a little closer. Other than that they look fine :D 88Emjay

About the 4.10's in 4 bangers myth... About a year ago I bought an 86 XJ 4cyl 5spd as a parts jeep. It had 3.54 gears in it, and I still have that front axle now in my MJ. I guess the 4 bangers were available with everything but 3.07's. 88Emjay

And thank God for that! Yahoo's forum has great folks and lots of info, but if I try to navigate it for more than 3 minutes blood will shoot out of my nose. 88emjay

Ok, so here's an update guys. I went again and bled the crap out of the brakes. All 4 of them. Still low pedal. I was about to swap in the new M/C but I really had it set aside for my XJ, so I decided to bleed the brakes again the old fashioned way.... without speed bleeders. I replaced the speed bleeders with regular ones and had the Mrs pump the pedal as I cracked the bleeders. Low and behold.... I have good brakes now! I don't know if the speed bleeders were sucking in air or what but the old 2 person bleeding did the job. Strange thing is I never saw any air come out when I bled them. Thanks for all your help guys! 88Emjay

Perhaps this is the solution? http://store.summitracing.com/default.a ... toview=sku Does anyone know what the front/rear ratio is from the MC without the combo valve installed? 50/50? 70/30? 88Emjay

That's what I think too. Could I test it without buying a ZJ combo valve though? Could I take the rear brake line straight from the MC to the axle, bypassing the combo valve by blocking the rear in/out ports on the valve? Not intending this as a permanent setup but just wondering if its possible for a test. Or would I have to swap the MC for one with a larger piston? 88Emjay

I copied the ARB design using 2.5" sqaure tube because I don't have a tube bender... :cry: Here's a pic from a year ago when it was new and my MJ was stock: I made frame reinforcements too. They're hard to describe, but I can take a pic if anyone needs one. 88Emjay

I can measure them for you in the morning but when I was doing the swap I measured them and the stock leaves and they were exactly the same length eye to eye. They even had the overload leaves just like the MJ packs. 88Emjay

I'm using an XJ combo valve at the M/C so there isn;t a need to block the line going to the proportioning valve over the rear axle. I bypassed that one by cutting the line to it and continuing it to the axle. I'm sure I did it right because brakes were great with the d35 back there, only thing I changed was the axle and brake hose at the time of the swap. I'll bleed it again in the morning just to make sure.

I was under the impression that if there is air in the lines the pedal would get harder as you pump it up (with engine running). I also thought that the rears would work better if the pedal had more "useful" travel. I adjusted the piston at the M/C, and the rears have slight drag, as they should. I also bled the crap out of the system, but I'm not excluding that as the problem. So you think I should bleed it more? Also, the parking brake isn't hooked up yet, but I don't think that affects the performance on discs like on drum brakes. 88Emjay

When I did the 8.8 swap I used the explorer leaf springs. They had the same amount of leaves and the same arch, but in better shape than the oem MJ leaves. The only difference I saw was the bushings were a bit smaller (less rubber) but that's it. Maybe you can find replacement explorer springs and/or AAL for them. Keep in mind there are different spring "codes" for explorers, and I don't know which one I have since I only bought the axle and not the whole explorer. Regards, 88Emjay

Yeah, I replaced the bad metal lines with new ones. Just did a bunch of searching on other forums and it seems there is some kind of o-ring mod for the combo valve that sends more fluid to the rear.... anyone know more about this? I have an XJ combo valve on there now, and I read that the MJ combo valve is just a junction block.... so should I just bypass it? Thanks!

Hi all, I'm new to the forum. I just swapped a ford 8.8 into my 88 MJ and the brakes are not what they were with the dana35 in the rear. The pedal goes down pretty far before doing anything. The truck stops fine, but the pedal has excessive travel. I replaced the rubber hoses in the rear and bled the system. If I pump the pedal it does not get harder, like it would if there was air in the lines. It gets a little harder if I pump it with the engine off, but as soon as I start the truck the brakes go down near the floor again. The rear pads are a little past 1/2 way and the master cylinder and booster aren't new. I have a new M/C + booster sitting in the shop but before I go swapping those in, I was wondering if the disc brakes require more pressure than drums, and maybe my solution is to get an adjustable combination valve. I already bypassed the proportioning valve in the rear. Have any of you guys with 8.8 disc swaps had to get an adjustable combo valve? Any of you having a similar problem? Thanks a bunch fellas 88Emjay