1987Comanche

I like the little 4 bangers. Looks like a nice rust free rig :). Meg, my first MJ was a 4 cyl '87 with the AX-5 so I may be a bit partial...

Thanks! I still have some odds & ends to sort through but I'm happy with how she turned out :). Converting her to 4WD allowed me to pick & choose later model parts that had the bugs worked out (non CAD large U joint axle, external slave AX-15, etc). I couldn't find exactly what I wanted so I had to build it.

Yes, I'm calling the pipe that goes from exhaust manifold to converter and crosses under the bellhousing the cross over. -Correct. The exhaust systems won't line up as is. Cat inlet and outlet flanges are the same if memory serves so you can cut the flange off the renix exhaust, bolt it to the HO down pipe, and use flex pipe as a temporary solution until you can get it to an exhaust shop. -We didn't try using the Renix intake and HO exhaust. Not sure why you'd want to as there's a port mismatch between Renix intake and HO head. The Renix sensors/injectors will all work on the HO intake but you'll need to figure out a solution for the TPS. Hesco has a sweet adapter but it's around $100. -Antique tags are good :). Will make life a lot easier for you.

Turns out it was a bent linkage. The little jy I sourced the T-case from bent the linkage up badly. I got everything in a 5 gal pail and it took me a while to assemble the jigsaw puzzle but, with no frame of reference, I installed it as-is. I found another external slave 4WD AX-15 at the jy and grabbed the center link from it. Check out the difference: Problem solved :D

Ran into an issue where the 4wd was behaving erratically and traced it down to a bent linkage. I questioned the linkage when I got it but I was assured that everything in the 5 gal pail (nuts, bolts, handle, linkage, etc) was needed and in good condition. As I had no point of reference I installed it as-is. Turns out the little jy I sourced the T-case from bent the linkage badly. Fortunately I found another 4WD AX-15 donor and grabbed a replacement center link: We've had some nasty weather in the past few weeks so I've had ample opportunity to test the 4WD. Works great :D

Test fit the '94 external slave AX-15 and the '96 NP231: Installed the trans: Installed the T-case, linkage, and front driveshaft: Put her back down on the ground, bottomed out the slip yoke and backed out 1" to measure center to center: Sourced a beefy aftermarket driveshaft from a Fox body Mustang GT and had it cut & balanced to my measurements. In case anyone is wondering D35, AX-15 with external slip yoke NP231 D/S is 41 15/16" center to center. Used 1350 to 1310 xover u-joints: Then got her back on the road. :banana:

I'd meant to post progress on a regular basis and thought I wasn't that far behind but it turns out I'm way behind here :hmm: Anyway here's where Georgia is sitting now: Rebuilt the front driveshaft with new u-joints. that double cardan is a real PITA to work with: Also gutted the interior to put in the 4WD shift handle and replace the E-brake cable that let go: I replaced the input & output shaft seals on the AX-15 prior to installing it: Seal contact area looks good: Then I finally got her up in the air for the transplant: 2WD trans came out, new clutch went in:

You might as well pull the exhaust manifold with the engine. You are correct in saying the Renix and HO exhaust systems don't line up. Use the HO manifold and get the HO crossover pipe (XJ/MJ are the same, you can order them from Carquest/NAPA, etc. for around $50). I'll leave the cat converter discussion alone other than saying Renix and HO cats are different, I'm not sure what TN's smog/inspection laws are, and follow your conscience. The cat back systems are compatible if you are willing to play with them a bit. I used a cat-back jy fresh Renix exhaust on my '92 and had to weld extensions on the hangers to drop the system and make it line up. I assume you'd have to do the same thing as you're putting in a HO engine. OneOverZero took his to an exhaust shop and got a reasonably priced system.

This one looks like it has good bones but you'd have to convert it to 4WD. Cheap enough, running, rust free, and mileage isn't too bad. http://greenville.craigslist.org/cto/4914777492.html I wanted a 4WD 91-92 4.0 AX-15 MJ. I couldn't find the exact truck I wanted so I built mine from a 2WD '92. You may end up in the same boat...

I helped OneOverZero put a HO engine in his '90 a year or two ago. -Temp switch on a Renix screws into the rad and is a temp switch to turn the fan on/off. Keep the sensor on the HO tstat housing and use it for a bleeder screw. The primary CTS on the renix is on the block near the motor mount -Is your HO block threaded for the Renix knock sensor? Some were, some weren't. If not threaded the boss should be there...you'll have to tap it. -Manual trans will pull right out after getting the bell housing bolts AND the 2 bolts that hold the inspection cover to bellhousing. They're threaded from the front and easy to miss. -Getting the E12 without disturbing the trans will require one of those ratcheting wrenches made specifically for E12. If you drop the x-member to access it you might as well pull the engine & trans as a unit. I've pulled: -Engine & 4WD trans as a unit. -Engine alone -Engine & 2WD trans as a unit -Xfer case alone -Trans and left engine alone. The engine alone was actually the hardest to access due to bellhousing/firewall clearance but was quicker than pulling trans/t-case too

You can probably make the existing harness work. There really isn't much wiring on the HO 4WD AX-15. VSS is probably the same connector (2 wire I'm assuming), back up light switch is 2 wires, and the dash light is controlled by the switch in the T-case. Is your rig already 4WD? If so then the back up light switch will be the only thing to figure out.

Actually it is a lost cause :(. I tried pulling the emblem and it broke in half on me...I think it cracked when all the other cars were piled on top of it. If you really want the tailgate I can see what he'd take for it. I'm guessing $50 or so but didn't specifically ask. Other than the rust line on the LH side of the tailgate it was in really good shape. How does one ship something that large anyway?

Reply is in your inbox.

Saw this poor thing at the scrap metal place this morning... The '86 he had was in much better shape. Grabbed the tail lights out of it.

I dumped more scrap metal and grabbed the tail lights this morning. One of the mounting tabs was broken/missing and I pointed that out. He knocked it down to $45 for the pair. The lenses aren't cracked or broken: Found the B pillar lights too! Turns out they were in the glove compartment. Grabbed both of them as well. Didn't seem like there was too much else worth taking:

How does the undercarriage look? I see location is PA but it was undercoated so not sure how rusty. Assuming the underside is good I think you're looking at a $1500ish truck. Column shift 2WD =tough to convert to a 5 speed. It would make an ideal 4wd swap candidate though. Find a donor with a good AW4 trans and grab everything.

http://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/4890598585.html

Its a long bed ('86). I'm planning to dump more scrap metal Sat morning and will grab the tail lights then.

Called him up with the intention of stopping by and he wanted $55 for the pair. I know the B pillar lights are shot (1st thing I checked) so no joy there.

What part is missing? I found an '86 2.8L at the scrap metal yard and was going to try and get back there for the tail lights later this week. I have no idea if the truck runs but, if you're 1 piece shy, I might be able to grab it off the carb.

Near Asheville, NC. I'm going to try and get back over there later this week. What do you think is a decent price for the tail lights, i.e. what should I offer the guy?

I have the Chrysler OBD I connector for my Vetronix/Bosch MTS3100 and, in addition to streaming data, you can also run through various test sequences (injector balance test for example). I primarily use the MTS3100 on my GM vehicles (it's basically at Tech 1A brain with additional features) and there are some GM things you simply can't do without it (crank variation learn on a Vortec engine or cycling ABS motors to finish bleeding a brake system). I don't recall having a library of test sequences for the Renix system on the MT-2500. The Solus and the OTC/SPX Genisys didn't come with Renix cables and I didn't seem them listed in the catalog. I think the DRB and MT-2500 are the only ones that can speak Renix...

The Renix diagnostic ports are located on the pass side wheel well near the battery. If memory serves there are 2 ports, usually covered with yellow weather tight plugs. They are under the black plastic cover that hides some of the relays. Snap-on has (had) the Renix adapter for some of their older scan tools. I hooked up to Meg with the MT2500.

I didn't get a chance to grab any pics but the little junkyard/scrap yard near my house has an '86 MJ, 2.8 4X4 in their yard. Medium blue with a blue vinyl bench, and a column shift auto. 97K showing on the odo and, other than the mangled RF corner it was in pretty good shape. The tail lights looked good, tail gate looked good, it had a bed liner, and it was still mostly intact. If anyone needs the tail lights or tail gate I can go back and grab them. I didn't talk prices with the owner as I was in a hurry (dumping scrap metal) and, frankly, was shocked to find it in his yard. Sadly he had a second MJ on the bottom of the scrap pile too. It was once a gray/burgundy SWB Pioneer...

I did some troubleshooting/experimentation this afternoon. I found a nice, icy hill, disconnected the linkage, manually shifted her into 4Hi at the T-case, then gunned it in first on the hill. I got both front & rear wheels spinning on the ice but there was no popping. I'd think that would make the chain jump for sure. Linkage issue?