MWinland

Does anyone have part #'s for the AW4 tranny lines? I'm going to go ahead and replace them while I'm putting in my Imperial tranny cooler.

"Full size" is probably a better description, but is it a good swap? I only have experience with front D30's. I'm currently running 31's on a D30 with an Aussie and CAD. I want to up size to the 33-35 range.

Is a Grand Wagoneer Dana 44 front axle a worth while swap? I want to go full width, and I found one in a local JY for $250. I realize I'll have to re-gear and all that jazz, but in terms of strength vs. effort, is it a good swap?

'89 shortbed np231 w/ SYE, D44, SOA...rear shaft = 43.5"

I've been running Aussies front and rear (30/44) for the past 7 months, and they work pretty well. My mud king XL's don't show too much wear, but there is some wheel scrub from turning and whatnot. The Aussies were pretty loud when they first went in, but have quieted down significantly with a little use. I was working on a budget at the time so as far as Aussies go from a cost/benefit analysis point of view...super buy.

For the 78-79 f 250/350 front axle, is it as simple as cutting off the spring perches to make it ready for a truss? I found a whole truck ('78 f 250) with a blown tranny for $800. Is this a decent buy?

I stumbled across a complete, running '79 f-150 for $500. Is it worth that for the axles?...or should I pass it up? I don't really know that much about the Ford D44s. Ideally, I would use the TNT truss to convert to Jeep 4 link or Rockkrawler 3 link. Any info would be helpful.

I've narrowed my winch bumper search down to two bumpers: the Detours Offroad Backbone system and Rigidco. Does anyone have any first-hand experience with either? I would appreciate your input.

Installed new bearings and races. I don't know how the housing would be bent if it wasn't before the disk swap. It hasn't been off the road. Could the Ausi posi be installed wrong?

What would happen if the retainer plates were turned around the wrong direction? That's one thing I forgot to look at.

I have an '89 MJ with an '87 XJ D44 with a crown vic disc conversion under it. Last week both axle seals started leaking BAD. I took it to the shop to have it worked on. Well, the mechanic said the bearings and seals were shot (after only 3 months and no off-roading). I picked up the truck yesterday only to have the seals start pouring again...only worse this time. I used the article from Jeepin.com to do the conversion. I need help fast. Any ideas what's going on?

My '89 SWB 4.0L 'manche has smelled rich since I purchased it a little over a year ago. However, I wasn't really worried about it until gas hit $4.00/gal. Right now, I'm averaging between 15-17 mpg, which isn't bad considering, but I'm optimistic I can do better since the exhaust smells rich. Any guidance?

Thanks for that info. I'm going to test fit the regular application model. If it's too short, I'll be hitting you up for the longer one.

The only reason I ask is because the local NAPA has the standard application posi lok for $209. That's cheaper than anywhere else when shipping is accounted for. My only concern is that it will not be long enough for my MJ with 5" of lift.

Yeah, I was really just wanting the specific length of each. Example: stock application = (insert #); >3" lift = (insert #).

What is the length difference between the 4x4 posi lok for stock applications and posi lok for >3" lift application?

I unplugged the NSS connection in the engine compartment and sprayed it with some cleaner. The truck starts in P and N, but it also starts in all the other gears...and the backup lights don't work. But at least it's back to the way it was before.

The truck won't start at all? I was under the impression that it would start in any gear. Since buying the truck, I've always been able to start it in any gear, and the backup lights have never worked.

It's an '89 w/AW4. I did remove the crossmember, and in the process, lowered everything about 1.5" while I was doing the install. My speedo cable is reattached; I'm pretty sure it's the vaccum thing I left hanging. I don't think I messed with the crankshaft position sensor; just rolled the truck to line the driveshafts back up. As far as the NSS switch goes, where is it on the tranny? Could have discoed it when I lowered everything.

I just finished installing a SYE. Finished everything and went to start...but no start. The new tailhousing doesn't have the plug connection that the old one did. Could this have something to do with not starting? Have already cleaned the battery terminals.

I've been given a pretty good deal on Armorthaning the body of my 'manche. The '89 era paint is in bad shape. What are the pros/cons of spraying the body?

I've seen so many different seal numbers, and I don't know what's correct. To eliminate the vac disco and upgrade to a 1 piece shaft, what seals do I need?

I want to upgrade to larger u-joints in my D30 w/ cad, but I want to keep the cad (posi). Can I use the driver side off a 96+ XJ on the passanger side for the outer?

What jeep vehicles had/have (model and year range) a rear D44 w/ discs that will swap onto the MJ D44?

Right after I change oil, my '89 MJ leaks like mad, but once the oil level hits just above the add line on the dipstick, it stops leaking almost completely. It's done this since I owned it, and I've come to expect it, but winter is here and I have some time to chase down the problem. I'm starting simple with a new valve cover gasket first because I can see oil leaking there. What else is a common problem that is commonly overlooked? Also, anything I should watch for on the valve cover gasket change?