35 Dollars

If you want to have good ground clearance under the pumpkin in the front of your truck seek out a dana 50 (over the D60); more about it: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dana_50 They are basically a dana 44 pumpkin with a larger axle shaft. There's been a lot of interest in these over the last 10 or so years, so finding aftermarket replacement parts has become much easier. If you go with one (or the D44), then just use later Ford spindles and hubs on it - from the 90's - and they'll match the 5x4-3/4" bolt pattern of the 8.8. If you go with the D44, be sure to take one off a pre '83 WAGGONEER, not the Cherokee Chief - which is wider (unless that's what you want). If you want to go with 5x5.5" bolt pattern, take the spindles and hubs off an 81 or earlier Ford F150. You can take the 8.8 axles out of a Ford E150 van (5x5.5" Bolt pattern) - which can be easily converted to disc (you'll have to cut new holes in the rotors to match 5x5.5"), and it will be just about as wide as the Waggoneer axle IIRC (or it could be the Cherokee Chief axle). It's been a number of years (like 10) since I originally researched this, but I'm sure I have most of these facts right. Someone may have more information on it. 8.8 has an axle shaft that is quite a bit larger than the D44 - so I doubt it'll be your weak link. For additional safety have the tubes welded to the pumpkin on the 8.8 - the spot welds are where they are the weakest.

Figured it out... A) (long one) is the main line to the proportioning valve. This is the pressure line. B) (short one) must be a return line to the proportioning valve to bleed off the additional pressure used to enhance braking. For those of you who decide to do this swap (Ford 8.8"), you'll need a 1/4 (7/16" 24) female to 3/16 (3/8" 24) male brake line adapter to mate the Jeep hard line to the Ford soft line. I drove the owner of my Napa store crazy with this request, but he finally found the part - it can get really confusing if you don't deal with this on a regular basis. Thanks for all the advice fellas, it finally came down to just experiment and the truth shall be revealed.

So which one should I cap and which one should I hook to the 8.8? Or doesn't it matter? I find that there are two lines coming out of the proportioning valve for the rear brakes... which one do I cap?

The red caps give away their position. Nope, no height sensing valve.

Both are hard lines... How do I post an image from my computer on here? Ron

Then just plug the return line, and be done with it. The return line should have been hooked to the fuel regulator in case there's an overabundance of fuel and it needs to be sent back to the tank. Or something like that.

There are two hydraulic lines going to the rear axle: a) long one that drops down to the back of the axle; and B) a short one that stops just before the axle. I need to figure out how to hook up the brakes for the Ford 8.8, which has only one connector on the driver's side - any ideas from you gurus of the MJ? Ron

Thanks again, for the links. I ordered the book on ebay. That should help me get this straightened out. I truly appreciate the advice and the time you fellas took to help me out. Ron

Thanks DREDnot... page 75 of what? C100? Is that the connector that goes from the firewall to the fuse box, then to all of the interior gizmos? Ron

I just put an 8.8 in 35 Dollars... Just had to buy a set of perches and put them on. The axle is a little bit narrower than the D30 in the front. It also has an offset pumpkin, which worked out great for me - it allowed that big, dumb driveshaft to allow me in put the fuel tank skidplate back on. Great axles from all the research I've done.

Still looking for this diagram if anyone has it.... Sorry, Sloride, but I looked through all of those files, and they didn't have what I need. Below is a link to a similar diagram to what I'm looking for, but this one is for the underhood connector for a YJ - I'm looking for a Comanche 1986-1990: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/attachme ... lkhead.gif Sorry about the link being from a different site, but what can I do. Ron

Typical Chrysler clutch master cylinder... I went through 5 of them in six years on my Wrangler.

I got an aluminum 3-row Advanced Adapter radiator on Ebay. fir just over $100 bucks, and free shipping. Try Rockauto.com, or Amazon.com, sometimes they have really good prices, and free shipping. Ron

Use Durabak with a spray gun... took me all of 10 minutes, and another 10 to clean it out. You should be able to rent one. Just a thought. Ron

If you really want to find out exactly what's wrong with your front end, take your MJ to a tire shop that does front end alignments, too. Tell them you just want a front end alignment. The technician will come back to you with a list of things that need to be fixed. Fix them, yourself! Then take it back to them for the alignment. Ron

That would be great! Thank you! Ron

I installed a 1990 4.0L in my truck, and I just want to make sure that the wiring in the bulkhead connectors have the same color coding, and they run the same things. Does anyone have an interior-view bulkhead connector diagram for a 1986 Comanche? I have one for a 1990 Cherokee, but I seriously doubt they're the same. This is what I've figured out so far based on the Cherokee (if it says Cherokee - then it didn't match, somehow (it was 4 years ago)): (the MJ doesn't have A/C) GRAY/blk - Left Turn Signal - A1 LT GREEN/blk - Wiper Park - A3 BLUE - Parking Lamps - B1 VIOLET/wht - Washer Pump - B2 BLUE/wht - Wiper High Speed - B3 YELLOW/blk - 4WD Switch? (1990 Cherokee) - B5 YELLOW - Coil Positive - B6 YELLOW/blk - 4WD Switch - C2 GREEN/wht - Ignition - Tachometer - C3 BROWN/wht - Backup Lights (1990 Cherokee) - C5 LT BLUE - Oil Pressure (1990 Cherokee) - C6 RED/wht - Battery - D1 VIOLET - Coolant Temperature - D2 RED/wht -Battery - D4 LT GREEN - Headlight Lo-Beams (1990 Cherokee) - D5 RED (thick) - Battery - E1 GRAY - Horn - E2 WHITE - Headlight Hi-Beams (1990 Cherokee) - E4 ORANGE/blk - Blower Motor (1990 Cherokee) - E5 BROWN - Right Turn Signal - F2 BLACK/wht - Brake Warning - F3 BROWN (thick) - Power Steering Switch? (1990 Cherokee) - F4 GRAY/red - Brake Valve? (WTF?) - F5 VIOLET/wht - Washer Fluid Level? (1990 Cherokee) - F6 LT GREEN/blk - Fog Lamp Relay? (1990 Cherokee) - G1 TAN/grn - Alternator/Battery Indicator - G2 WHITE/blk - Wiper Low Speed - G3 BLACK (x2) - Ground - G4 TAN/blk - AC Request? (1990 Cherokee) - G5 ORANGE - Choke Heater Relay? (1990 Cherokee) - G6 LT GREEN - AC Select - H1 GREEN - Starter Relay - H2 TAN/blk - Wiper Park - H3 GREEN/blk - AC Low Pressure? (1990 Cherokee) - H4 VIOLET/or - Rear Washer Pump? (1990 Cherokee) - H5 WHITE/grn - Washer Fluid Level? (1990 Cherokee) - H6 I am having trouble with getting any part of the interior to work: like the interior lights, instrument cluster, etc. Any advice you fellas can give me would be greatly appreciated. It's been four years since I bought 35 Dollars, and worked on it, and I would like to get her drivable. Thanks, Ron.