luvmyglock

Sorry for the late response. The LEDs were bought on Amazon. They are cheap, and light up the area real well!

Well, the title says it all. Here's a summary: Bought the truck a year ago and bled out all the gunky nasty old fluid. I've been daily driving the comanche for this time. I have never had problems, but about two weeks ago I was off-roading and after about an hour of off-roading I went to leave. I went to hold the brakes at a stop sign, and started rolling backwards. Pedal went to the floor and I almost hit my buddy! I stopped the truck, looked at the lines, underneath, the fluid reservoir, etc. Nothing out of the norm. I cautiously drove home, having no further issues. I've been driving it daily since, thinking that it was an odd fluke since I haven't had any other issues or spongy brake, etc. Now today I was *in traffic* approaching a red light. I went to hit the brakes....and NOTHING. Pedal to the floor, same as last time. It seems as if the pedal has resistance as normal for a second, and then I lost everything. I quickly hit the parking brake and brought the truck to a stop, brake function then returned to normal and I drove her home very cautiously. Now the truck is "red X'd" (any other aviation guys out there?!). It's condemned. It's not worth driving it with the danger of not being able to stop, because there is obviously a problem. Anybody have an idea as to what is wrong. I can't say I have ever seen an *intermittent* COMPLETE brake failure, with no other signs or symptoms. Thanks!

The only MJ with a mechanical fuel pump is an 86 with a 2.8. Money. I think he's got just that config. Worth checking out. Except he specified 2.5 and his signature says 1991.. Reading comprehension: it's not just for first graders anymore!

The only MJ with a mechanical fuel pump is an 86 with a 2.8. Money. I think he's got just that config. Worth checking out.

Empty Post

Heat. The door post switch is in the ground side of the circuit. The courtesy lights are always hot, and the door post switch just closes the ground side of the circuit when the doors are opened. When wires and connections are cold, they conduct optimally. Heat increases resistance, and current flow generates heat. So ... my guess is that there's still a bad ground, or a bad connection somewhere in the circuit, and as the lights run for a couple of minutes that connection heats up and the resistance increases at that point, thus lowering the voltage. :shrug: That's the best I can come up with on short notice. Bingo. "Bad connection somewhere in the circuit" takes the win. I fee like an idiot, because where is the first place to check when something electrical is wrong? You got it..FUSE BOX! After all this shooting wires, cleaning grounds, rewiring stuff, and pulling my hair out I failed to check that the fuse was firmly seated...it wasn't. Pressing the fuse in with some force gives me 11.89 volts at the lights and BRIGHT LED lights. Now, for the pictures! LED lights drilled into the panels so that I don't have any ugly lights hanging off anything! They're green for night vision preservation purposes, not to be a ricer ;). I'm installing white in the middle of the other side, with green on the outsides. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

I am using the existing wires, which are wired into the door "plunger" type switches for GROUND. (White/black for ground and red for constant 12v) BTW I'm getting good continuity on these wires when testing.

So I am wiring in some LEDs near my pillars. I have never had b-pillar lights, so I thought I would use the wiring for them to install some LEDs. I replaced the door plunger switch that was broken and cleaned the other one up. Afterwards, I went and checked the voltage at the light end of the wire and found out that I am getting 7.5-8v constant. The issue here is that I am getting 12v in the morning or when it has been sitting for a while...The battery is good, and the truck is a daily driver with no battery or voltage issues. What would cause such a dramatic voltage fluctuation in this wire? Power is NOT intermittent, it's just a solid 8v after it's been on for a minute..then shut the doors, open them again, and 8v again! I can shut the doors, leave it, and come back in eight hours and get 12v...what's going on here?!?! :???: :???: :???:

Found this MJ just a few minutes from my house! Looks awesome. I would be willing to go give it a thorough inspection for any of you guys who may be interested in it that may not live close enough to do it yourself. http://okaloosa.craigslist.org/ctd/3709008193.html

I've got the FSM for an 89 Comanche in digital form..PDF. Only issue is I can't see how to upload it.

Unfortunately for you, they all run to the fuse box, then out through the firewall to the battery. Fortunately, however, they all share a ground. If memory serves me correctly, it is the P5 ground, located under the far left driver's side kickpanel. Remove the long panel above your knees, then look at the far left above the hood release. You'll see a ground there on the underside of where the panel seats. I would start by checking that ground. Good luck.

Affirm! Exactly what I need!

You have email. Thanks again.

This right here is what makes comancheclub so awesome! I do need a full set. Pm me your email address and ill shoot you some PayPal funds if that's acceptable. Thank you so much!!!! Edit: just for clarification I do have the 4.0 I6

There are none at any junk yards near me. Snag me some and I'll pay!!!

Anybody know where I can get the little wire clips that hold the injector electrical connector to the injector? Dealership says no!

Have you checked rockauto????? Here.. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1261625&cc=1181674

Opening your pics results in a web browser crash 100% of the time....

Haha thanks. I love my Z (it's the garage queen), and the others are daily drivers.. ;)

***UPDATE*** So I have started the priming! The body work is killing me..LOTS of dings and dents...not to mention the removal of the flaky, crappy paint that was on there before! I finally got the tailgate stripped. I also removed all the tailgate hardware, and will be powdercoating it this week. I just got my new powdercoating setup, so we'll see how it works. I am powdercoating the handle and all of the hardware related to the tailgate black. I also got the passenger side of the bed's body work done, and primed it today. It looks a thousand times better, as copared to the pics in my initial post. You can see there were some pretty intense dents! Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

New Update! I know it's been a while, but the MJ hit the back burner in favor of some other projects. So I have begun body work, and will be painting the Manche desert tan with black accents such as the cowling and fender flares. I am removing rust and removing dents now...I have got a ways to go. This body was destroyed by the previous owner. I even have some places that will need to be welded together or replaced...we'll see how that goes. Me and my little helper have a crazy road ahead. Timeline for the final paint job completion is a month. We'll see.... Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

Sounds like we have a consensus. I'll disassemble and examine the components. Thanks.

Correct. Odometer registers miles when the speed is not functioning. Verified.

Vaquaro, Thanks for the info! That eliminated some confusion for sure. So, I shot all the wires for continuity, and everything was looking good. The fuse is good, and switching the flasher out for the emergency flasher at the fuse box did nothing. I had voltage throughout the system, but it still wasn't working. I removed the steering wheel, and disassembled the column to get at the switch within. The switch was full of old nasty dielectric grease, which I cleaned out with some CRC QD Electrical Cleaner (LOVE that stuff). I reapplied dielectric and reassembled. Then I tore out the fuse box, thinking that maybe there was an intermittent or faulty connection within. BOY was I in for a surprise. The fuse box was FULL of sand, hardened factory dielectric grease, and just general CRUD. I used an entire can of electric cleaner on it, and scrubbed the crap out of it with a brass brush. Once it was shiny clean, I checked contact continuity, and reassembled. Low and behold, everything works better than it ever has! Blinker problem solved. What a pain in the butt, however this was something that obviously needed to be done anyways. I am happy to have fixed the problem, and my once "clickety clackity" turn signal switch is now smooth as butter. I took the opportunity to recoat my dash pieces in plasti-dip while everything was disconnected, as well as organizing the rat's nest of wires under the dash and wrapping/bundling them in insulating F4 tape. Looks like brand new! I'll add some pics of the dash and wiring organization later!

I have been having an issue with my speedometer. It will work wonderfully about half of the time...the other half it rests at 0. Sometimes the issue will fix itself in the middle of driving it, and it will just magically start working again. This does not effect the odometer. I've got a 1989 Jeep Comanche Eliminator. Thanks!