clarkerussell

That's what I thought. What are most people doing about the interior panels if they use the new style doors? Has it been done?

What about the door panels? Can to old ones be reused, or do you need to use the new ones? If so, is there a problem with them integrating with the old dash?

I know there is some fab work to do to make the door catches work, but do the door creases line up to the rest of the truck? I parked next to a Classic and I couldn't visualize them lining up with the B pillar and the front fenders. Thanks.

I have one as well, but I hear the 1989 manual is much better. Also, is the.pdf version a scanned version of the original one? Thanks.

Does anyone know if an electronic version of the Factory Service Manual's exist?

OK, now that I have a used BA10 to swap into my Comanche I have bought (literally) some time to assemble the right parts for my 4x4 conversion. Before I go crazy and start buying things that won't work together, I have to start with some questions: 1) I've been told by a guy on eBay that sells complete BA10 to AX15 conversion kits that the bellhousing that I have now (with my BA10) is NOT compatible with an AX15. Everyone here says it is compatible. I trust the opinions here more than the eBay seller, but I just need to be certain. Is the Bell housing from a 1988 4.0L, 4x2, BA10 tranny 100% compatible with the AX15? 2) Since I'm looking for donor cars, should I broaden my search to include the newer NV3550 5 speed tranny's, or is that too much of a hassle for my stock 4.0L engine? What's the advantage to the the newer NV3550? 3) Am I giving up anything with using the NP242 over the NP231? I really like the idea of having full time 4WD for non off road use (snow, etc). 4) Is there a special front end that I should be looking for, or are they all pretty much the same (gearing, options, etc)? I hear the rear end is a whole other topic... I'll deal with that shortly. Thanks in advance everyone.

**MOVED TO NEW THREAD**

Seeing that I want an AX15 (or better?) and an NP242, it's going to take some time to accumulate the parts. Since I want my truck back ASAP I bought a spare BA10 on eBay last night for $51... The seller is local to me and my mechanic can put it in for $200... It was sold "As Is" but the seller has good feedback and I'm not looking for a long term fix. I just need it to last another 3K-5K miles so I can get the parts together for a 4x4 conversion. I figure it's probably worth $251 to not have to rush into the conversion process... what does everyone else think?

As noted, the 242 was never offered from the factory mated to any manual transmission, so if you want that, you'll have to buy it separate from the tranny. But it will work with no front axle. It offers 2WD, 4WD Hi (part-time), 4WD Hi (full-time, which WON'T work with no front axle), Neutral, and 4WD Lo (part-time). Does anyone know if the NP242 uses the 21 or 23 spline input? Any comments on the NP242's reliability? I see them mainly in the Cherokee Limiteds, but most of the ones I see in the junk yard have 150K+ miles on them. Is the transfer case "bullet proof", or do they tend to wear out like the tranny's? Thanks in advance.

OK, So I'm looking on eBay and this guy in Florida is selling a rebuilt conversion "kit" for $2000... http://tinyurl.com/pvfao It includes the tranny, bell housing, transfer case, shifter, etc. He also sells rebuilt AX15's for $700 http://tinyurl.com/nbosj Basically, he's saying that the AX15 requires a new bell housing and shift tower. Is this correct?

The NP242 is the full time 4wd unit, right? That's what I had originally want to go with, but I'm having trouble finding one. What it sounds like is that I can find an AX15/Transfer case combo, but a new tranny mount, move the existing crossmember to different pre existing mounting hose, shorten the drive shaft, and then I'd have a functional 5 speed tranny with transfer case but no front axle to hook it to. Would that cause a problem with the NP242, or is it possible to run the NP242 in 2wd mode? Also, is the clutch and pressure plate for the BA10 different than the AX15? Thanks. Clarke

So the bellhousing is the same? What about the output shafts? As for the 4x4 swap I'd like to do it now, but the truck is at a mechanic right now. I'm not sure how comfortable he'll be with swapping in something that requires any fabrication. I'm assuming that if I did a 4x4 swap I'd need to find the tranny/transfercase as well as a new drive shaft. Then it'd probably not match up to my rear axle. If the AX15 would swap in for the old Peugout I don't think I'd have a problem. If it's difficult, he might only ro a remove/replace on the existing Peugeot.

I had a weird clicking noise that I thought was the throw out bearing for my clutch. The truck is a 1988 4.0L 2WD 5-speed (Peugeot). I sent the truck off to have the clutch replaced and the mechanic says it's not the clutch, but it's in the transmission itself. He thinks it's some sort of bearing in the tranny making the clicking noise. I thought it was the throw out bearing because the clicking noise went away when the clutch pedal is pressed in. Now I have a new clutch and a bad Tranny. What should I do? Should I go for an AX15 swap or should I just replace the Peugeot until I'm ready to make the 4x4 swap? Is there something better than the AX15 that will drop in? If I wanted to start the AX15 4x4 conversion, should I just start with a 4x2 AX15 and add the other components later? If I go with the AX15, is it a direct replacement or do I need a new bellhousing, etc? Thanks in advance... Clarke

I checked the fluid... it was brown and ugly, but it was there... I guess it's the master cylinder...

Well, my Comanche has been sitting idle for about 9 months and I finally went to get the clutch installed. In that time, the brakes have decided to fail. The brakes themselves are fine, but when I hit the brake pedel, it just goes to the floor and the truck won't stop. Is this a problem with the vacuum booster? Is there a common fix somewhere? Thanks in advance. Clarke

We'll, I finally bought the LUK kit from Carolina Clutches... I also bought a slave cylinder from the dealer.. They were EXACTLY the same... Smae patent number markings, same EVERYTHING. I returned slave to the dealer. The clutch kit was $145 total and the dealer wanted $120 for just the slave.

OK, I'm about to buy a clutch kit for my 1988 with a BA10 tranny. I've been told to stay away from the slave cylinders that are included with the kits. I've priced the Jeep slave cylinder and I can get one for $112.39. The entire kit including the aftermarket cylinder, pressure place, bearing, and clutch is only $180... Is it worth 60% more money to use a Jeep cylinder over the aftermarket one? Thanks in advance. Clarke

I'm trying to decide which clutch kit to buy. I'm looking at these two: Sach's on eBay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33730&item=8046390740 or a LuK kit from Carolina Clutch: http://cc.aspartner.com/ Both appear to have the same "cheap" slave cylinder. "Good" Slave cylinder: http://autos.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/jeepcomanche/photos/view/3d7b?b=19&m=s&o=0 "Cheap" cylinder: http://autos.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/jeepcomanche/photos/view/3d7b?b=20&m=s&o=0 Can someone help shed some light on this? Am I better off just buying a new slave cylinder from the dealer? Also,I'm familiar with Sach but not LuK. The positive to the LuK is that Carolina Clutch is local to me, but then I'd have to pay Tax. The Sach kit is $30 cheaper but I have to order it. Thanks in advance.

Yea, that's how I justify alot of my purchases...

I don't know about spacers... The wheels look like they are at their limit now. Much nore and they'll stick out of the fenders. So, do the 4x4's not have the extended hubs? If so, now that I have the nice LOOK of an off road truck, maybe now's the time to add the 4x4 system I've been thinking of...

Decided to get the BF Goodrich All Terain KO's in 235/75/15. I had them mounted on a set of 1994 Grand Cherokee 5 spoke wheels (silver w/grey painted inserts). They look AWESOME and fill the wheel wells very nicely. The only problem is with the front hubs. The center caps on the wheels had to be removed so the hub could poke through. What are my options to fix this? Are the hubs this way because my car is a 4x2? Thanks in advance. Clarke

This it nice... Carolina Clutch is only 15 minutes from my house!

Do you know if they were the "good" slave cylinders?

I don't plan on it since it's a 4x2 right now and a 4x4 conversion is sort of far off. I'm really more interested in a good overall tire and according to the reviews at Tire Rack, the KO's are a great tire. It might be a tad noiser, but heck, I'm talking about a "basic" Comanche with ribber mats and no sound deader material to be seen. A little road nosie is probably not even noticable. As for the look, I'm using the 5 (or is it 6?) spoke Grand Cherokee wheel that has the grey paint between the silver "spokes" They are concave wheels unlike the convex 5 spoke wheels that have "JEEP" cast into them. I think I can get 225/75's in the T/A's, but not the KO's, but I'll have to check... My only problem with the T/A's is that I HATE the design on the black wall side of the tire. It has some sort of weird block design around the parameter of the sidewall. I really like the KO design, though 235's might be a bit too aggressive for my 4x2... Unless I'm giving something up with the KO's (dry/wet/snow performance) over the T/A's, I'll probably spend the extra $100 on the KO's. If the T/A's are a much better tire for non offroad work, they might be the winner...

Costco is running a special on BF Goodrich and Michelin tires this week. You get $60 off a set of 4. I was all set to buy the BF Goodrich All Terain K/O's in 235/75/15 but they couldn't do it. The computer said I could only use 215/75/15's in the K/O's. I could get the Long Trail T/A's in 225/75/15's, but NOTHING in 235/75/15. My questions are: 1) Are there any fitment issues with 235/75/15's on a stock 1988 4x2 Comanche? I want to fill the wheel wells of my truck, but I don't want the tires to stick out. I'm coming from stock 195/75/15's today, so anything will be an improvement. 2) Since I'm changing the profile of the tires, will I need to adjust my speedometer? 3) Since I do NOT go off road, would I be better off with the Long Trail T/A's? Thanks in advance. P.S.- Costco's prices were: 215/75/15 All Terrain KO's - $412.99 Installed including /tax 235/75/15 All Terrain KO's - $461.18 Installed including /tax 215/75/15 Long Range T/A's - $299.95 Installed including /tax 235/75/15 Long Range T/A's - $377.96 Installed including /tax