clarkerussell

Hello all, I got my truck back from my mechanic that was doing the 4x4 swap, and there is one item missing. He could not (or didn't) replace the metal cover panel that goes around the shifter (see picture). Apparently it's a different plate for the NV3550 that I replaced the BA10 with. Right now I can remove the center console and look at the top of the tranny. I'm not even sure what the original looked like, or if I need to get one from a 2000 XJ to match the shift tower. Can someone give me some input? Thanks. Clarke

OK, another issue has popped up... I started removing my exhaust and found that it's the original exhaust, and that the muffler appears to have been factory WELDED to the catalytic converter (notice the shiny ring on the flange, it goes all around in a perfect line). It was on the flange that goes from the rear of the cat to the front of the muffler. There was also a U-Clamp on it. As evidenced by the picture below, I tried breaking it free with a chisel and hammer, but it would not budge. Is this normal on the factory exhaust? If so, is there any suggestion on removing it? If I have to take it to a shop and pay someone to cut it, I might as well just buy a new cat for $100 and replace the whole thing. Thanks. Clarke

I didn't see any, all I found at Advance Auto were the steel "U" bolt design. Are you referring to the ones that look more like a hose clamp?

OK, well I got my Flowmaster 50 Delta ($115) and a Walker tail pipe ($70) from Advance Auto Parts this afternoon and will be installing it this week. I went ahead and bought some Exhaust sealing paste for the slip joints and two new clamps. I didn't buy hangers because I didn't know what type to get, but once I'm under the truck, I'm planning on replacing them. Next question... The Walker pipe is rather plain. Is there a more attractive tail pipe cover that doesn't LOOK like a tail pipe cover? All they had at Advance were the 6" long chrome ones that are attached with a screw... Those look like crap. I just want a 2.25" inner diameter "sleeve" that slides over the rather ugly aluminized pipe. Nothing fancy. Thanks. Clarke

Just ordered one, We'll see how good the ACC kit is. I'll be sure to post reviews, thanks for the update! Clarke

Does anyone have a recommended place to purchase the rubber mat? Someone said the JC Whitney one does not fit very well, so I'm looking for someone with experience on another brand. Thanks. Clarke

OK, I think I'm going to go with the Flowmaster 50 muffler. I can get the muffler from a guy on eBay for $99 with free shipping and the tail pipe is available at Advance Auto Parts for $67. All of these are 2.25" diameter, so I'm assuming that's the factory dimension. I guess we'll see :). Clarke

I'm in Charlotte, NC. Where are you?

OK guys, I need to replace the torn rubber floor cover in my Comanche so I've been looking at the carpet kits from eBay as an "upgrade". Before I get carpet though, I need some fitted rubber mats for protection. I've used Weathertech in the past for cargo liners, and their mats seem to be pretty good, but the ones for the Comanche appear to be generic mats. I'm really looking for something that's molded to the floor contours. If these are not available, I guess I'll just go with rubber flooring instead of the carpet. Does anyone know if the quality of the aftermarket covers are any good? How about a good source for them? Thanks in advance.

I have three 16oz cans left, but I'd hate to waste them on this system... it seems so easy to work on... unlike the 1987 BMW 635 I have the R-12 "reserved" for...

Well, I have a supply of R12, but it's piss expensive (~$30/Lb). Given that, R-134a is probably my best option... SO, is it even possible to get the Ester out of the compressor? I know I can flush the lines/Evaporator/Condenser, but I thought the compressor couldn't be flushed...

Hello all, My 1988 MJ is back from a 2 year hiatus, and the AC is no longer working. The compressor spins, the clutch cycles on and off, I just think it's low on R-12. So, I have a decision to make.... do I stick with R-12 (I have a decent supply) and hope there are no huge leaks, or do I make the conversion to R-134a? I have not converted an R-12 to R-134a before, but I understand that I'll really just need to "recover" any remaining R-12, replace the dryer with an R-134a compatible, evacuate the system, change fittings, and recharge. I hear that's the easiest way... I'm told the more professional way is to do all of the previous items as well as remove all the Ester from the compressor, or just replace the compressor with an R-134a ready unit. What has everyone else done? Have you replaced the compressor, removed and drained it, or just let it go with the Ester Oil? Thanks. Clarke

Hello everyone, I FINALLY got my truck back after a 2 year 4x4 conversion ordeal, I'll explain more in a different post tonight... The truck runs great, and things seem to work, but I REALLY need a new exhaust and/or manifold. The sound is terrible! I have not inspected the manifold yet, but as the car is a 1988 with 115K miles, I'm sure it's due for a replacement, besides, they are pretty cheap. I've seen quite a few aftermarket Stainless Steel manifolds in the $130 range on eBay, but wanted to check with you guys before I pulled the trigger on something. Does anyone have a better suggestion? Here is one that I'm looking at: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/87-88-Jeep-Comanche-Truck-Exhaust-Manifold-242ci-4-0L_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el1116QQhashZitem3ca2ec618aQQitemZ260431438218QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_1707wt_1356 Also, any suggestions on an exhaust? Thanks in advance! Clarke

I think some one cut and glued two front fenders to make a rear fender once, and if you want bigger flares I think tj fenders look good with 97+ front ends I would really like to see some more member pictures of the 97+ exterior upgrades, especially the wheel arches. I'd also like to see some information on the 97+ single Window door conversion...

I have a general question on the wheel arch trim for the 97+ conversions. I see how the newer, rounder fender arches blend with the front bumper, but is there something that can be done to the rear arches that would allow them to match the fronts? I have not seen them in person, but I'd have to think it'd look a little weird to have the newer arches on the front but not on the back.

Nice! So, did you install it yet? How was the fit? I see several other sellers on eBay, so I just wnated to see what you thought before going further.

Seriously? I didn't realize they had molded carpet kits. I've always worried about their quality as well.

Looking for gray! I'm in Charlotte, NC. I'm area code 28210. Thanks! Clarke

huh? Sorry, meant to say 1988...

Hello all, I'm about to pick up my 1998 4.0 from my mechanic after a LONG, LONG conversion to an NP242 from a Grand Cherokee, an NV3550 from a 2001 Cherokee, and axles/driveshafts/bits from a donor 1998 MJ. Now that the mechanicals are sorted, I need to work on refurbishing the interior/exterior. First order of business is to replace the torn rubber floor cover that was original. I'd like to use a factory carpet kit that will be molded to the floor pan if possible. Does anyone know where I can find one? Thanks in advance. Clarke

Well, as the axle was free with the rest of the donor vehicle, I had to work with that. Now, my assumption is that for $150 in labor, I should have a "rebuilt" axle with known good seals, U-Joints, and wheel bearings. If I bought a newer axle, it'd still have used U-Joints, seals and bearings, right? What would I be getting if I went with a newer axle vs. rebuilding my existing one?

Brakes have been replaced (new rotors, hoses, calipers, pads). By unit bearings, I'm assuming you mean the complete hub/bearing assembly? The seals (one or both) are leaking so they have to be done...

Well, my mechanic is going to replace all the parts (seals, U-joints, wheel bearings, etc) for $150 in labor. I have to supply the parts though. Besides, I have all new rotors, pads, calipers, and hoses at this point... I'd hate to have to replace them all... That being said, I have put in a NP 242 so a non CAD axle would be nice... In the mean time, my mechanic just plumbed the disconnect vacuum lead to a constant vacuum source so it's always engaged... I'll probably just shim it per everyone's recommendation once I get it home.

Hello all, My mechanic is going to replace the U-Joints on my 1988 4x4 Comanche's Dana 30. Since he is going to be replacing the U-Joints, what other items should be replaced? I'm assuming the wheel bearing should be replaced, and the axle seals (2 or 4 of these?)... oh, and the diff oil, of course... is there anything else? Clarke

Sorry to sound naive, but where does one get a 1 piece axle? Thanks.