cocco78

I'm putting the rest of everything in my build thread.... Check it out. http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=4375&p=135555#p135555

Well, I found a good deal on a used, but rebuilt a couple seasons ago, E47 pump. I have started to build my mount over the weekend, and I keep changing my mind how I want to to it. I just want to make it look nice so i'm being overly picky, but its fun. I also downloaded the 50 some page user manual from meyers website, mostly for the wire diagrams. And I picked up some momentary DPDT toggle switches from radio shaft and a few feet of different color wires to make my controler. Hell they are going on ebay for close to a hundred bucks for a couple feet of wire and 2 switches that I got at radio shack for $12. Only thing I need is to go down to napa and pick up a solenoid... I'll post more pics when I actually make some progress. I need to work fast, we got our first snow of the year today!! slow start on things. Not going to use my sketch above for the mount exactly like I drew it. I picked up a little bit of 1/4" angle iron and going to do something like the western mount. Up front i'll catch the 3 bumper bolts, then in the back I'll catch the large sleeved hole on the side of frame as well as the holes on the bottom that the splash guard and sway bar mount to. As far as the hoop goes, not sure on that yet. Build it as it goes I guess :cheers: Here is a start on the bumper... yeah, the winch will come off and the plow hoop will bolt to the winch plate. I'm putting 1/4" angle welded under the plate and will thro bolt everything to that. So here are the side plates for the plow mount, these are separate from the bumper and its mounts, again so it can all be unbolted. I'm out of metal now tho so i'll have to wait til monday to get more. this pic everything is sitting on the floor upside down. here is is right side up. here is one of the brackets that the plow carriage will mount to with some reciever pins, 3/8" thick. i'm going to weld these to a 2x2 square tube across the bottom. Then put in some triangulation to resist lateral forces.

Well, I found a good deal on a used, but rebuilt a couple seasons ago, E47 pump. I have started to build my mount over the weekend, and I keep changing my mind how I want to to it. I just want to make it look nice so i'm being overly picky, but its fun. I also downloaded the 50 some page user manual from meyers website, mostly for the wire diagrams. And I picked up some momentary DPDT toggle switches from radio shaft and a few feet of different color wires to make my controler. Hell they are going on ebay for close to a hundred bucks for a couple feet of wire and 2 switches that I got at radio shack for $12. Only thing I need is to go down to napa and pick up a solenoid... I'll post more pics when I actually make some progress. I need to work fast, we got our first snow of the year today!! slow start on things. Not going to use my sketch above for the mount exactly like I drew it. I picked up a little bit of 1/4" angle iron and going to do something like the western mount. Up front i'll catch the 3 bumper bolts, then in the back I'll catch the large sleeved hole on the side of frame as well as the holes on the bottom that the splash guard and sway bar mount to. As far as the hoop goes, not sure on that yet. Build it as it goes I guess :cheers: Here is a start on the bumper... yeah, the winch will come off and the plow hoop will bolt to the winch plate. I'm putting 1/4" angle welded under the plate and will thro bolt everything to that. So here are the side plates for the plow mount, these are separate from the bumper and its mounts, again so it can all be unbolted. I'm out of metal now tho so i'll have to wait til monday to get more. this pic everything is sitting on the floor upside down. here is is right side up. here is one of the brackets that the plow carriage will mount to with some reciever pins, 3/8" thick. i'm going to weld these to a 2x2 square tube across the bottom. Then put in some triangulation to resist lateral forces.

Oh hell ya, let the building begin Cuts like butter, and the slag on the back falls off with one pass of the grinder I put on a 220v plug, and higher psi on the air and it slices through 3/8" like f'ing butter. 110v plug just was not cutting it, it would cut 1/4" put was tricky. You can even knock the little slag left over off with a welding hammer.

Update! No actual progress yet, but this week was finals week at school and now I have a couple weeks off before winter semester starts. I also got a new toy to help cut out all the parts for the plow mount and the winch bumper! Oh and we are getting snow!!! So I have to get this thing moving now!

The clayton kit is easy as heck to copy. I copied their TJ kit right down to the JJ's... I put it all together with nothing more than a sawzall, 4.5" angle grinder, and a chop saw... And with the money I saved building it myself I bought a hobart 187 to put it all together :D Seriously though, clayton stuff it good and they are a good company and really stand behind their stuff. I think if you bend an arm they'll replace it...

I'd also tend to agree these were good transmisions. I had a 99 grand with the 4.7L and this was a great combo. I towed with it and probably did some stuff with it that it wasn't meant to do, great trans IMHO. If I ever thought about getting rid of the 4.0L i'd probably do a 4.7L/auto swap. I hauled my wrangler from the up of mi round trip to tellico and it never skipped a beat. Even towing through the mountains, no problems... It did have the factory tow package with the trans and power steering coolers... But we also have a dakota with the 4.7L in it and the trans feels alot different, it seemed to struggle towing a 2 place alum snowmobile trailer. I know the dakota is only a 4 speed auto, and the Jeep was flashed to be a 5 speed. Maybe the updated flash was a better program for the trans?

I think everyone hit the nail on the head with why they are so great. First off its a Jeep and a Truck, best of both worlds! Solid front axle, big fuel injected I6, and a damn good looking truck. I don't think you can find that kinda package anywhere else. Closest competition would probably be the similar year ford Rangers They also had strong v-6's and a decent drivetrain, and almost a solid axle (ttb's are interesting to play with)... Plus MJ's are pretty economical in stock form, I've seen xj's and mj's with the 4.0L 5-speed get low 20's for hwy mileage..

slow start on things. Not going to use my sketch above for the mount exactly like I drew it. I picked up a little bit of 1/4" angle iron and going to do something like the western mount. Up front i'll catch the 3 bumper bolts, then in the back I'll catch the large sleeved hole on the side of frame as well as the holes on the bottom that the splash guard and sway bar mount to. As far as the hoop goes, not sure on that yet. Build it as it goes I guess :cheers: Here is a start on the bumper...

Well, I found a good deal on a used, but rebuilt a couple seasons ago, E47 pump. I have started to build my mount over the weekend, and I keep changing my mind how I want to to it. I just want to make it look nice so i'm being overly picky, but its fun. I also downloaded the 50 some page user manual from meyers website, mostly for the wire diagrams. And I picked up some momentary DPDT toggle switches from radio shaft and a few feet of different color wires to make my controler. Hell they are going on ebay for close to a hundred bucks for a couple feet of wire and 2 switches that I got at radio shack for $12. Only thing I need is to go down to napa and pick up a solenoid... I'll post more pics when I actually make some progress. I need to work fast, we got our first snow of the year today!!

Nice, thanks. I think I just need to find a better pump now. I've got an old meyer pump, but its old... I may just use the winch to raise and lower it for this season.

Wildman, thanks for the pics... If you get a chance maybe take a pic of the side plates, how it bolts to the unibody. I was kinda thinking of making the lower mount a separate piece that could be removed at the end of winter. The winch bumper is going to have a grill hoop so I can incorporate a way to attach the pump to that. I will not need lights or anything as the jeep sits up pretty high as it is and the plow should not block the headlights at all unless its raised all the way up. Either way its only for my driveway.... Here is my sketch for the undercarrige, I have a 4'x4' sheet of 1/4" steel I was going to use to make the side plates. The center part is from the CJ mount and is 2" angle 1/4" thick....

I have a nice 6.5" meyer plow with mounts for an older CJ. I'm building a new winch bumper for the old MJ and would be interested in seeing some pics of factory style mounts. I have a pretty good idea how i'm going to build it but thought maybe some more pics might inspire me. Oh and I plan to make the plow mount removable so it can still be wheeled.

I'm running an aussie in my 3/4 ton d44 front axle with 37" tires... Yeah, its good. Buy right from the source http://www.offroadlockers.com/ I ordered on a monday and it was on my doorstep that thursday.

Damn, thats a nice looking MJ... I don't see any rust on it! I would kill to find a truck that nice in MI for $600

Long time no update!!! After she blew the D35 up over in MN I just ended up welding everything together on it last fall. We wheeled it all winter and played with it this summer a bit. I can't believe I haven't twisted apart one of those axle shafts! But Now the front D30 is on its last legs, unit bearings shot, ball joints gone.... We kept putting off the axle swap because my wrangler wasn't done yet and I wanted something to wheel while mine was down. But mine is done now so... We ended up trading the Ford 9" out of the bronco for a 70's ford D60 and will run 3/4 ton GM disk brakes. We are keeping the Ford HP44 up front, but its all setup now with 3/4 ton Chevy d44 flat top knuckles and all 3/4 ton chevy outters. Both axles are getting 5.38 gears, the 60 is getting welded, and the 44 is getting an aussie locker. As of right now we are trying to keep this cheap and not doing hi-steer, just flipping the tie rod above the knuckle and reaming everything out to fit 1-ton GM tre's. Oh and it will all be rollin' on 8 bolt h1's and 36" military goodyears...

Wow, that front axle is way to far gone to make it worth while! Just by looking at it I'd say all the mounts need to be cut off and replaced. And yeah, probably new ball joints, unit bearings, u-joints, and probably axle shafts! Oh and new brake disks, doesn't look like they are turnable! I bet it would cost at the very least $750 to get that axle into shape with replacing everything an new brakets! Um, if you already have an axle under your MJ just take the gears and carrier out of this axle and pay a shop to put them in your axle, will probably need to buy an install kit with new seals and bearings. But used gears are very hard to setup correctly! But if you want to fix that rusty axle look into this http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/XJ- ... -1542.html Balistic fab has by far the best prices and service out there. I have ordered many things from them and they always ship very fast and are great to deal with..

Well its been a while... We never did do the axle swap, but we wheeled the heck out of it... She actually damaged the bed pretty good on one run, got stuck in a real tight spot between tree's in deep mud. She ended up planting a tree right between the cab and rear wheel and pivited off the tree, left a nice battle scar. The rear D35 finally let go at an offroad park up in Gilbert MN. So we got the bronco axles in the garage and up on some saw ponies to start working on... So not much for plans right now, swap in the bronco axles with the stock gears for now and just run my old 33's and play with it for a while until we have the cash to do some gears and 36's... Oh and I haven't finished my Jeep yet, thats why we held off on the mj axle swap. I wanted to have at least 1 jeep running, even if it was my gf's jeep and I just road along with her. She's learning how to handle the MJ pretty well! My junk

Finally did a compression test, had to order the tester. #1 100lbs 2 110 3 110 4 100 5 115 6 100

I don't think the truck was abused at all before we got it, it was a 1 owner and the guy drove it back and forth 100 miles a day for a while... The truck has about 230k miles on it, the PO said the motor was rebuilt a few years back. Anyway, i'll spend a couple hours on it this weekend and let you guys know what I find.

Its not my DD, but I was driving it on 100 mile round trips twice a week to school to save wear and tear on my powerstroke.

There is no fuel going into the exhaust, I know that much. As far as the injectors go, there is no change from the original injectors to the new ford motorsports 19# injectors we put in. Also, I've had 02 sensors go bad and it created a very bad problem with the motor running rich, which in turned cause it to run poorly and created alot of smoke through the exhaust. i'm still putting in a new sensor tho as its cheap enough and a good idea as they gradually loolse performance. At this point its all purely speculation as I don't have time to check it out. But the truck runs good, does not have smoke from the exhaust, and doesn't exhibit any characteristics of running rich. So just from that info, what does that leave? 1. After its shut off the presurized fuel from the fuel rail leaks into the cylinders and gets past the rings into the crankcase 2. Fuel is entering the crankcase while it is running from somewhere else, ie the vacuum system 3. There is just enough blow by in the rings to let fuel by but not oil into the combustion chamber. Anything else?? Once I have time to start actually looking at the truck i'll be sure to post my findings. First thing would be a compression test, then I guess a leak down test of the fuel preasure in the rail....[/b]

I checked the compression a while back when we first got the truck, it was pretty good, I can't remember the numbers. And its firing on all 6, it runs great and has plenty of power.... i'm going to recheck the compression but I don't think thats the problem.

I don't believe its blowby, wouldn't the motor have poor compression then? Its not like a little gas, it read a good 2 inches past the full mark on the dipstick...

What are some of the things to check for gas in the oil. The truck runs just fine, but after running it on a few 100 mile trips I went to check the oil and it was way above the full mark and smelled like gas. Like I said the truck runs real well, and doesn't overheat or anything... Its also got newer ford motorsports 19# injectors, but it did the same thing with the old injectors. Any idea's?