starkizer

This sucks. If I didn't have such an obsession with the Comanche I would just sell it and be done.

Ok, so I have watched a million videos (give or take a few hundred thousand) and they seem to have a bolt holding that pin in that holds the spiders in. Mine does not have a bolt.... It has what looks like an allen head thats flush in the thing. Except no Allen head that I have fits in the thing, and I have an entire drawer full of them. So I'm wondering if maybe the thing broke off or something. I also noticed I only have like 2 bolts holding the ring gear on and there is a spot for like 12, so that concerns me. There is also a good chunk of one tooth missing on the pinion gear so that ticks me off. Theres a lot of damage in this thing. Suckfest

I found a great looking pull a part in Corpus Christi, about 40 miles away so not bad at all! Looks like its a pretty decent find, but I'm trying to get my old parts out first so I know what parts I need and what tools I need to do it. Now I'm gonna have to figure out how to get the axle shafts out so I can get the carrier out. I'm gonna look around you tube, but if anyone has a good write up, post a link.

I really apperciate all the input, thats what I love most about the comanche club. Thank you everyone. I think thats what worries me the most about doing the whole axle swap is paying to much then finding out I have the same problem. I think I will get online and look for junk yards in my area and go try them out today. I am new to South Texas and don't know the area so it might take me longer to find a yard then it will to swap the gears. I have today and tomorrow off work, so HOPEFULLY I will be driving my own truck to work on Thursday! I will of course post the results.

If the stars align and the heavens open up and I happen to find a Dana 44 with a gear ratio of 3.08, I should be able to slap the whole thing in and NOT change the front at all, right? God I hope so. I really don't want to mess with the front axle, and I know if I can't find SOMETHING to fit in the same gear ratio as the front then I'll have to change the front too. Any suggestions on what I should pay for a whole axle? I am willing to drop another axle in if thats what I need to do, but as I said.... I really, really don't want to change the front too. On another note.... how bad would I screw things up to pull the rear drive shaft, throw it into 4x4 and drive with just the front? Not that I would do that or anything

I was really hoping I wouldnt have to remove the actual axl, but it seems like maybe thats the way to go. I don't have air tools and am worried I'm not strong enough to bust the bolts loose. What is it, basicly the shocks come out. Pull the Ubolts holding the leaf springs on, couple break lines and the thing falls out........ basicly right? So here is my confession of the day.... Ive never bought anything from a junk yard.... how do they work? I assume I go there, wonder around till I find someone that works there, tell them I need parts off a Jeep, they will point, then I gotta hunt the Jeep down. Then pull the parts I need myself, take them back to the guy, he tells me a price and then I'm all like, oh crap, you don't take credit cards... then I go get cash, then by the time I get back they are closed and I have to do it all over again? Or at least something like the first part of that? Seriously though, how do Junk Yards work?

I know I could get a 44, but don't I have to change the front if I change the rear? I don't go wheeling and honestly I drive 5-10 miles a day, but it is my daily driver so I need it running. I found a spider gear kit for about $150.00. Think that's about right?

sorry I think I double posted. at least the new page works on my phone though sort of...

I have a post in the classified Ads for the whole axle and we talked about spider gears but I don't think I have any takers. so when searching for spider gears I don't need to look for a specific gear ratio. I just need to find spider gears for a Dana 35? what about the loaded carriers do they need to be specific for the 3.08? the ring and pinion gears are the only gears that are not stripped. so I could change the ring and pinion and regear the whole differential? but I need to stay within .01 of the front axle right?

I am rebuilding my rear end due to having both spider gears shreded! So I have questions! The plate on the diff cover reads 5304770 3.08 605324-1 I am taking that to mean that its a 3.08 gear ratio, and the other numbers I am assuming are serial numbers or some other garbage I won't under stand. I have searched all over the internet and have found about 0 total spider gears. I have found loaded carrier cases or whatever they are that say for 3.55 and down ratios. What I would like to know is... 1: Am I correct, the gear ratio is 3.08? 2: Is the gear ratio for the ring and pinion, the spiders or all of it? 3: Do I have to stick with 3.08 gear ratio? <--- I will change out everything if needed The front axle is Dana 30 and 3.07. (I think) If anyone knows where I can buy parts, please let me know! I am trying to keep with buying new parts, I would like to stay away from scrap yards. If there is any other info I need I would be happy to supply it. Any help I can get would be great. Thank you everyone! Jeep On!

after watching countless hours of youtube video. I have decided to replace the spiders and pretty much rebuild the whole axle. I think I can put in new axle shafts and bearings and races and seals and spiders and all that. Actual labor, no problem, Ive done worse. I just need to find the parts. The real irony so far is, I have only found the ring and pinion so far, which is the only part that is still good in the diff! Want to stick with new parts, so I'm going to do some searches online, probably buy 10 different brands of 10 different things. wish me luck, and you can bet it will be posted on my build page.

Does that mean you have one for sale then? :brows:

Also, just checked out the front axle and its geared at 3.07 not 3.08 (like the rear), does that make any difference.... I was thinking that should be the same gear ratio?

How hard is it to change out there gears? I just started working at O'reilly Auto Parts and I looked and I know they can order in the loaded case with all the gears and all that for a couple hundred bucks. I don't have a lot of tools no special tools and no air supply at the new house yet. Do I need anything special for the job? Think it would be easy enough to replace the gears then the whole axle?

I am in dire need to replace my rear axle. I just moved to the South Texas Area and upon arrival I was greeted with shreaded spider gears in the dif. So as my MJ was my daily driver, I need to get her fixed! If anyone in my area has a Dana 35 Axle for sale, I will come a running! Here is the current specs off the plate on the pumpkin...... or if you happen to have a better solution (other then junk yard) please let me know. the plate reads 53004770 3.08 605324-1 Thanks guys!

Thank You. Its my pride and joy! Believe it or not, I ordered it from sears.com I happened to be working at sears auto center at the time and thought, why not check it. Sure enough they had one. I THINK it is 17x32. Install was a breeze. Took longer to get the old nasty piece of plexiglass that someone had glued in out then it did to put the new one in. I did have to cut the existing hole a little bit bigger, but I used a basic jig saw with a metal blade and it was fine. Honestly they are easy to install and anyone can put one it!

What is easier, changing the gears inside the rear diff or just swaping a whole new axle in?

I had done all the fluid changes oh 5 or 6 months ago. About a month and a half or so ago was when I heard that first clunk, but it only last for a minute then its been fine this whole time. My only theory now is that somehow when it was being towed here to Corpus the fluid leaked. Then I put the drive shaft back on and went for a drive and with the fluid being low I made the existing problem worse and now I have a lot of work ahead of me. But that's just a theory.... Have no idea why the fluid would have leaked. While towing it was at just the right angle or something. I don't know.

ohhhhh it just got a lot worse.... pulled the cover off the rear diff. luckily I decided to do it right instead of just filling it up. Giant pieces of metal and gears come falling out. Great! Huge piece of gear missing. Thinking at this point it would be more cost effective to swap the whole rear axle rather then change gears, I don't know how to align them and shim them and all that. Anyone have a Danna 33 or 35 or whatever the heck it is floating around they want to sell in the Corpus Christi Area?

I just changed the ujoint on the rear, closest to the pumpkin.... still the same noise..... no fluid in rear diff!!!!!

Thanks for the link! Looks like good stuff.

I am leaning towards the u-joints. I have never changed them, so I guess it wouldnt hurt either way. I hope that takes care of it, It sure seems like thats the cause. They do have greese fittings but you have to take the shaft off to access them anyway. I don't have a greese gun anyway, may as well buy ready to go new ones.

so to summerize it all up. 1: Wash, wash, and more wash. Every trip to the beach. 2: Repeat step 1 Got it! Thanks all! :drool: Just living here, all I would really have to do for prevention would be to coat the undercariage. Could get all sorts of fancy and do the whole underside of my truck in Rhino Line! You know, that way I could have the protection from the salt and the rocks I don't climb! :thumbsup:

All the gears in the differentials got cleaned and nothing is damaged or anyhting inside the pumpkin. I have NOT changed the rear shaft U-joint. There is nothing I can see by actually looking at it, but yeah... thats normal. Would a U-Joint cause that much trouble?

Well, I'm in the gulf now so glad to hear it! You can never be too cautious you know!