big66440

you guys think the dealers may still b able to dig one up? what would be the name for the piece?

Are there any model/year jeeps out there that have the shift pattern (automatic AW4) on the steering column itself rather than on the gauge cluster that will fit in my 89 renix 4.0?

Thats how I usually do it but this time I didnt have any barb fittings that fit the outlet ports to do so,so I tried a method that Raybestos claims also works in the instruction book by plugging the outlet ports pumping the master and allowing air to escape through the fluid in the chambers which I am not completely convinced worked.

Thats exactly what my set up looks like,Is there any possible way that there can be an air bubble trapped in the system between the master and either the wheel cylinders or calipers? or maybe even in the master if I didnt properly bench bleed it?

Yup Iv'e had weird things like replacing a master and not even having to bleed the whole system once bench bled and installed,but i gotta admit I'm at a blank here.

Still very spongy my next plan is to trace the complete system from the wheel cylinders to the master and calipers to the master just to verify any leaks,I wasn't really pleased with the bench bleeding method I used on my new master I'm used to using the barb fittings and running hoses to the chambers full of fluid is there any possible way that there may be air in the MC alone thats keeping me from fully bleeding the air out of the system?could the distribution block be at fault in any way? I'd appreciate any advice,thanks in advanced.

Well here's an update I finally plugged the correct port on the distribution valve and bent a line to completely bypass the height sensing valve,thankfully no leaks I pressure bled the system the conventional way with my new proportioning valve wide open to get the most fluid and air out of the system I literally ran 2 quarts of brake fluid through each wheel without seeing a single air bubble and I know that for a fact because I used clear line,,,and still no luck just for the record I have replaced both front rubber and rear brake line(s) along with both wheel cylinders,master cylinder which I bench bled by plugging the ports if it matters,I admit I'm stumped :help:

OK so the distribution block off the master cylinder on Mj's does NOT work as a proportioning valve right? I'm thinking I can route the "feed" line from the master to my Jegs proportioning with a fitting and bending a line to it right?

guess I plugged the wrong one :hmm:

Ok finally bypassed the valve this afternoon with a jegs part number 555-63020 (amazingly easy by the way) and plugged the port on the distribution block but now I don't have ANY fluid to the rear wheels.I am a bit bummed but relieved at the same time since at this point it can only be either or the brake line from the distribution block to the rear wheels or the distribution block itself I've already back tracked the "clog" and it can only lead to these 2,I'm headed to the junkyard and will be replacing the distribution block with an XJ prop valve,what year XJ valves interchange with an 89 MJ?

Sorry I tried to simply copy and paste your reply

Just plug it. The thread is 1/2" SAE (fine). The shortest bolt I could find with that thread was 1" -- I cut it down until the head almost contacted the valve body when the bolt bottomed out, then I put an O-ring on it, added a "dollop" of RTV to ensure a good seal, let the RTV set up and screwed it in. does that work for the rear t fitting as well?

Brake distribution block WITHOUT the extra port going to the rear bypass circuit I'm eliminating it and going to an adjustable type proportioning valve

I've gone through 3 quarts and I've had it!!! I have a jegs proportioning valve that was gonna go on my coronet but oh heck I'll just run it on the manche I did a quick "run through" of the system and it seems pretty easy aside from finding the distribution block right off the master without the second outlet to the rear any one know were I can buy one? I'm planning on having it done for next coming monday so I can finally start driving back to work.

It's a pain in the @$$,I've had my butt naked coronet outside of the garage in the driveway for almost 2 weeks and taking the bus to work :fs1: :headpop: :mad: :wall: :fs2: I think I may have even come up with some new curse words, I've tried everything I possibly can and not to be a show off but it's a bit embarrassing since I'm ASE certified on brakes

So once I open the front bleeder and stomp the pedal I can release it right away?, do i leave the front bleeder open while the system is pressurized and I'm bleeding the rears?

Thought I'd start a new thread about the topic, I've replaced my brake master cylinder,LF,RF and rear rubber brake hoses as well as my wheel cylinders on my manche, I've seen the thread that gives step by step instructions on bleeding the system with the height sensing valve and have done the following procedure using my pressure bleeder, 1. I bled the system RR,LR,RF and LF (all my steps were done with 15psi of pressure and the truck sitting level at curb height) 2.I pressurized the system opened the right front bleeder turned the ignition switch to the "on" position pressed in the brake pedal and held it with a jack handle against the seat,I then went to the RR wheel cylinder opened it and did not stop getting air bubbles, must have waited AT LEAST 45 minutes and still didn't get rid of the air,am I doing something wrong? I checked the pedal to be sure and to no surprise it was spongy.

do you guys think a 0/90 gauge will work ok or will the 2 ohms throw off the gauge too much?

thank you very much :bowdown:

no one?

Thank you very much for the help,I guess were on the same boat as far as knowing how much gas we have left on the tank :cheers:

It's a short wheel base 89 Renix 4.0 automatic.

Does anyone know the resistance full/empty value of the factory fuel sending unit? I'm in the market for an aftermarket gauge and was wondering if one of you guys can help me out,thanks in advance.

Ok I turned the ignition switch to the on position and depressed the pedal and held it there with a jack handle (I had no assistant) did the procedure and it's still somewhat spongy,it holds enough pressure to stop the truck at slow speeds and no air comes out,any ideas?

Ok I replaced the front right brake hose and both wheel cylinders,I'm using my pressure bleeder and my strategy was this 1,I left the truck at curb height (didnt jack it up or put it on stands) then bled the entire system RR,LR,RF,LF. 2 I turned the switch to the "on" position,opened up the RF bleeder and bled the two rear wheel's RR then LR. I fired up the truck and there's very little pressure and the pedal goes to the floor, I noticed I forgot to rebleed the entire system after step 2,is that really necessary?