jgrabner

Problem Solved It was the Pump originally and I did not connect the Pump Connect well enough, I'm a Dumbass. After I got it going with a new pump and a new regulator I below the oring out of the first injector and she is running smoother then before once it was all put back together. Thanks for all the advice.

I do not have pump ballast on the Drivers Side, would this be somewhere else? Also I'm not getting any pressure to the Rail, I'm thinking I'm going to replace the Fuel Pressure Regulator at this point. Pump is good I replaced, CPS replaced and is good, and All Relays are good. I've already looked at all my connections but will be going over each wire tonight after I replace the FPR. If I put Ether in it will fire up but instantly die so I know if has to be something in the fuel at this point.

So a Week ago I was driving home and my 87 manche just dies at a stop light. It was not running rough and evenything seemed to be in working order other then the idle to be a little off. When it died the Vacuum line to the throttle body was melted which happens from time to time on my rig. I replaced that as I have before but to no avail. This has always been a reason for it to not start up but now that it is fixed it will not fire it will crank and act like it wants to start but won't turn over. I've done the c101 removal and ground refresh already, I checked the relay for the fuel pump and all seems to be fine(replaced with a good spare i had). I have noticed the humming from the fuel pump when I turn the key on is reduced as it was a good humming before. I don't have a tester so I unhooked the fuel filter (Replaced as well), and when I turn the key on fuel does come out. It isn't forcefully as I would expect but I'm not sure what I should expect. Does this sound like a Fuel Pump issue as that is where I'm at on diagonsising. Hoping someone had a problem like this as well that could chime in over point me in a direction that I may not be thinking of. Also after turning the engine over there is now a quick load buzz after I turn the key off, I'm suspecting this is the alternator or Starter from trying to fire it up with no luck. 87 manche, 4.0, aw4.

Rebuild was easy and rig is running great and 4wd is great to hev back

my truck 2 years ago And now current

Well, Jeep Driver your right it is my TC. I pulled my diff and I have a detroit not a powerloc as I thought and It is working fine. Now I got to decide if I want to pull my TC case and do a reseal as it is leaking and replace the chain or find a used TC. I can find NP231 for 150 on online around here. I'm thinking the best would be just to buy the chain and rebuild kit and put the work in but it would save a lot of time if I could find a decent one without having to rebuild. What is a good way to tell if the TC is in good shape when it is out of the vehicle?

I'll pull the cover this weekend to know for sure. I was originally expecting the TC but with the driveshaft out and in 4 or 4l there is no issue/Popping with the TC, making me look at the locker. I have a spare locker so no cash out of my pocket

I have rachet locker in my front axle, When I'm in 2wd no noise that can be heard from inside the cab but once I engage 4wd I believe it is the locker that is popping real loud and not engaging. I Removed the front drive shaft and in 4wd no sounds are made so I figure it is not the TC causing the sound even though inside the cab it sounds like it is right under me. Please let me know if this is a locker failure as I suspect? I'll know for sure this weekend when I get around to pulling the diff cover and replacing/repairing the locker.

I have this same problem. never happens when you first start it up but seems to stick once warmed up at least more often once warmed up. I vaguely know how to use a Multi Meter as well and it doesn't cause enough trouble for me to do anything about it yet. I'd be interested in what ends up solving it. I do have a spare tps i pulled a while back out of the JY if that is the colpurt.

Here you go a two months later. Since I've taken these pictures I put some upgraded from fixed lowers to rusty's longarm, rino lined exterior of the canopy black so it match's. Also the rear end is more then likley on it's way out so I'm also in the search for a new rear end. other then that she's smooth running girl.

I haven't gotten back on here for a while and I haven't done much other then Spray it out with the hose. It won't come out though, I had to use a nozzle on my hose that had some pressure to it. I'd think if it was water mixed in then it would come out a bit easier with brake cleaner but it would not budge so water hose it was... This weekend I'll Fill it back up with oil and run it on stands on jack stands and after a couple times see how the oil turns out, Hopefully it will get most of that gunk out. If I'm still getting gunk after 3-4 time of doing that then I'll pull the shafts, and spray the whole damn thing. IF it does turn out to be shot (more then likley since I was already hearing noise) I'll end up getting a 8.8 from a pick and pull for $250.00 so once I can afford to do it.. the ring and Pinion don't look to be bad though as far as i can tell, no chips cracks. The truck itself does have 217,000 miles on it though and as far as I know it's the original axle.. To replace the bearing and seals, the Gears would need to be reset Right? I'm in Oregon but Thanks for the offer. Thanks for the advice guys.

So My comanche started making a Whirling noise from the rear end when it was under a load-accel or cruising but not when my foot was off the gas. I had bought it back in December and it was driving fine until we had some good snow. It progressively got worse and I decided to take a look. First off i noticed no breather tube on the rear end which i didn't even notice when I bought her. I assumed water got in the axle but I now have no clue what this is. Can anyone tell me I doubt water would turn gear oil in to a thick pudding but I've never had water in an axle before? Could the Previous owner been trying to hide a load rear end? From looking at it no teeth are broken and the wear is not out of place and with the gunk in there it looks as if it is feathering is right. I'll be cleaning it this weekend and checking to see if the front is the same, if it is i'd assume the PO didn't know what he was doing. I've never seen this before if you have and this is just water that got in the axle and not the PO hiding something to get rid of the rig I'd be happy to hear otherwise I'll might be buying an 8.8 depending on what happens with normal gear oil in it..

Names Jay and I live in Forset Grove, Oregon. Just picked up my first running Comanche. I hade one before that turned out to be a dud and somethign i just didn't have the time for. Anyways I'm now in a 87 comanche, 4.0l, aw4(on the column), d30 front with aussie locker, d35 rear open, 5.5 in lift on 33s. picked her up last night.