skidoo_j

Here is a list of tools That i've read through the "how to" to compile to fix the steering wheel flop, any other suggestions? autozone rental part numbers 27044 steering plate holder 25200 wheel puller Pin puller: 8-32 1 3/4 screw plus nuts and washer through a 3/8" drive 9/16" socket bolt removers e8 torx socket http://www.epiccomputer.com/dale/jeepju ... /tilt.html http://brackmann.org/berkeley/Jeep/wren ... gwheel.htm any other tools anyones used to correct a loose tilt wheel and approx time for first time through?

my celebration was premature. Got the popping resolved... Turned out to be wrong adapter on the stabilizer. So i decided to drive 300 miles with the truck because it was all good, haha. well At least I'm able to refine the wobble. At 55 mph in 4th gear, 3.54 gears, 31x10.5 tires when driving in the up and down wows caused by semi trucks if long enough exposure death wobble occurs. I noticed however if i was going over 55 the likely hood reduced, and also found that if I sort of spooned in and out of the tire ruts it did not happen, so a little bit of back and forth. I did find at end of my trip i have some play in my steering box, about 3/8 (not quite 1/4 but less than 1/2 so a guess). I can't see that contributing to cause it. I"m thinking from this point it's one of the tie rod ends even though the alignment shop said they were good, but these were the same peeps who said the ball joints were good and both lowers were toast. also thinking it would be advantageous for me to repair the floppy tilt wheel as maybe i'm loosing some of the feedback that would be beneficial in diagnosing this.

Driver side upper and lower ball joints in 2.5 hours.... Hell yeah tools that make job go way fast. Get a slide hammer with hub adapter Ball Joint press from auto zone then go to harbor freight and buy the ball joint adapter set i got it for 50ish on sale 66958 and a joint tool that looks like scissors suggest front end service set 66686 13 mm 12pt socket w/ 1/2” drive to remove hub 24” breaking bar Small ball peen and a large ball peen. When pressing in or removing the joints it was help full to rap on the axle C when pressing. Moog joints are larger in diameter than the auto zone life time warranty ones. I installed the auto zone brand in my brothers and ordered mine through amazon and got moogs. Hence the press set from harbor freight is vital as the pieces that come with the press are not used except the press rings. Now to chase the pop. I'm thinking i'm gonna buy some water disolve paint and spray everything up front when it pops pull over and look for what moved. any other suggestions. i don't have a lift to get the truck up high enough now to see what is loose while not under stress.

Passenger side ball joints replaced in 4.5 hours, working on driverside now. On test drive after passenger side DW seems to have gone away, but a pop during turning now, hopfully it's the driverside ball joints that's why they're underway now.

Tire balanced again, still DW. However somthing promising to remedy... Had Les Schwab in Hillsboro, OR do a pre alignment shake down and they found both passenger upper and lower ball joints to be bad. It has about 3/4" vertical play. So I plan to change those, now I know they could be a result of the DW or they could be the cause, Will keep posted. Thanks for all suggestions so far.

With front drive shaft removed and vac disconnect disconnected this violent shaking still occurs. It's random. I got up to 75 with no problem. bounced it through some rough gravel road w/ pot holes at 30 mph with no problem, but on way home at 50 mph just remove foot off gas to slow for speed limit and there it starts. Entire truck shaking. I did notice however that it does not feel as though the tires are jerking just the truck violently shaking all over to the point you think its going to explode. First time the wife rode and experienced it and she stated if felt as if it was a side to side movement.. So is it possible rear drive shaft is causing this??? I will be measureing my pinion to shaft angle tomorrow on level ground and also my shaft to transfer. I don't know if the yoke is to far out of the transfer case maybe w/ accel and decel it's pullling out??? but then there's no popping or grinding noise. the drive line angle looks okay. Here's a photo...

any one know of a good off road shop in portland, oregon area??? one that could rid me of this death wobble???

I'm not sure what the alignment specs were. I'm assuming the shop set it to factory specs??? All i know is I still have death Wobble at 45 on a rough road (county maintained), but on freeway 60+. I actually had to come to a complete stop to get it to go away yesterday. and it came back even faster... I guess i'm gonna have to get under there and look for loose/ broken parts. I really don't know where to go from here. even though i replaced the steering stabilizer could i need an aftermarket one because of the lift?? I just replaced it with new OEM spec. Tires are out as a possible as i put the wheel/tire combo that was on before the lift and still wobble. I was thinking to remove front drive line just incase the u-joints were so bad that the wobble could start there??? then i guess it's all the ball ends? in the steering?? would you replace the knuckle ones first or the ones in the steering?

Now i'm confused beyond. at 55 when accel no wobble. can get all way up to 85 no wobble. then 5 miles later when at 60 and took foot off gas and slowed to 55 bad wobble. tried to repeat no wobble. then drove over a bump at 50 and wobble.. so it seems completely random, but only at speeds higher than 50... any ideas. it appears to be unpredictable and i'm not able to reproduce under control

I'll take a pic from the front of the steering y and trac bar maybe it's not right.

i'll check to make sure the track bar bushing holes are snug on the bolts. i know the bolts are solid in the mounts... as per all suggestions the .75" pitman arm drop was not used. as the alignment guy said they way it is currently chaning in the different arm may cause bump steer. He told me they checked my caster and i'd adjusted the arms correctly. thank you all for the advice over several searches. he also said i'd centered the axel with in spec and they did not need to adjust it. I don tknow if they just said all that so all they had to do was adjust the toe.

what is a road force balance??? Is it different than what les schwab normally does, they are open country toyos

the holes on the trac bar mounts were snug, not oblong. I used the stock uppers because the geometry for a 4" lift should be right at stock length, one of the reasons i was okay with 4" because less than 4" should not really be a stock length upper. I did not replace the upper mounts though, not sure if that could cause issues... I did replace motor mounts and tranny mount. the alignment shop said all my rod ends were solid.

HELP!!!!! Death wobble didn't go away need ideas!!!! New control arms, Trac Bar, 4" lift (spring and spacer), new stabilizer, sway bar disconnects. I've done everything i can think of. Got an alignment. but... at 55-65 i start to shake, not as violently as before the control arms and alignment, but still of concern. I'm going to check my wheel balance tomorrow. Any idea???

Old mount next to new

In the middle of changing out the transmission or transfer case mount I found these D-shaped spacers. I'm not sure if I should be reusing them. The old mount compared to the new one sit about 1" different, I don't know if all of that is deteriation or if these spacers helped to make the stock mount the same height as the new mount? Here are the pics of the spacers...

Got my stuff in to fix the front end issues hopefully. Lets see... They put all this and more on in an hour on the TV show trucks, so i figure taking away all the time they spend talking about themselves... I'll have it done in 2 weeks. and yes that is a bottle of crown. I like good stuff while working on the car. Good by death shake in the truck... steering box brace trac bar heavy duty new front springs control arms quick disconnects trans cross member trans mount throttle spacer

Got my stuff in to fix the front end issues hopefully. Lets see... They put all this and more on in an hour on the TV show trucks, so i figure taking away all the time they spend talking about themselves... I'll have it done in 2 weeks. and yes that is a bottle of crown. I like good stuff while working on the car. Good by death shake in the truck...

Well it sounds like you've made your decision. I admit if I had planned to stay with my original axle I would have probably done bolt on for the time factor and it would be very easy to change back to stock too. Just remember if you decide to change out the rear axle the bolt on kit will not work because the frame rail (or leaf to leaf distance) on the MJ is different than the XJ, so new weld on perches must be used.

I just did the D44 SOA conversion. Got perches from Ruffstuff. they're huge, cost me 20 to get them welded. But I wanted to reduce the lift so I had a guy with a milling machine take the precut deeper so the perch sat about .5 off axle instead of 1". Very happy with putting the d44 in. however anyone have input on the drive shaft length??? with the d44 now in the rear being 1" longer and only 4" of lift is my driveline going to be too long???

still need an answer for the length of exposed metal on the slip yoke on a stock setup. i'm going to post a pic from tom woods for measuring I'd like this measurement from a stock setup using d35 and 231 w/ swb. I'm thinking my driveline may actually be too long after the d44 conversion doing soa at same time. I calculate that had i done soa on the 35 my driveline would have needed to be 1/4" longer. but the d44 is 1" longer so excluding angles i'm .75 too long correct???

was advised that this combo would be the most like stock in ride

rusty's 300 series with 1" spacer... to get 4"

everything is tight new u-bolts, new shocks all arround. Just got new u-joints for the driveline, found out that only 1 bolt remained on the transfercase mount. frame appears to be rust free and solid. a bit of rust on driverside floor board that i need to address soon. I did put what should be a 4" lift on the front but it only went up 2.5. Waiting for manufacture to warranty the springs that have less than 300 miles on them. plan to replace lca with adjustable ones. I have a pitman arm drop that's about .66" drop should i put that on? would changing from the Y design to the Knuckle to Knuckle be beneficial? Or would just changing control arms and getting an alignment possibly solve it?

correct, but it feels like it starts in the rear end.. as i see the bed shake before i feel it.