skidoo_j

I ended up making a simple block off plate and two plugs that reused the stock nut to plug the exhaust and prevent junk getting into intake. yes it's redundant on intake with the plate.

any idea where you got the cap? Crown does not list one... I called them directly and they told me they don't make a cap for it... I contacted quadratec and they don't have a clue because they have all the parts direct shipped from crown.

Oh 89 4.0

I Installed one of dynamax headers this weekend and am having a major pain in the @$$ getting the egr tube to connect.. The muffler shop was only able to tack weld it in place and wants me to go back once it's relaxed and have them remove it and then weld in "leak free". My question is why can I not just put a plug in the headers and on the intake manifold? I do not have emission testing where I live, and I maintain my vehicle well so I'm not worried about emission issues. I've seen where some people eliminate the vacuum lines that control the egr valve so if i capped off the exhaust and intake wouldn't that just seal the deal even more??? Pros/cons to eliminating it?

from http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=31399 What purpose do they serve? When they come loose and fall into the engine then what? I asked my mechanic friend and he seems to think that the ford injector ports have a seat that that the pintle presses against. Where the Jeep does not. I'm thinking I'd rather pull them off and better be safe then sorry unless they serve a purpose.

what keeps them in place? If they fall off and go into the valves will they not bend a rod? Either my stock ones didn't have them or they fell off at some point..

the tank is about $16 from anyone that sells crown products so like jeepparts.com quadratec rusty's etc. problems is i can't find any of them that sell the cap and i don't know if the cap comes with the new one, or if a generic cap from napa or autozone will work with the tank..

napa part number CRB 212085 http://www.napaonline.com the hat I'm refering to. I used part number CRB 212079 which came with 8 orings and some sort of white plastic cone?? I used these orings on the engine side of the injectors.

Okay I've read forums clear back to 2008 where BLHTAZ listed precisionautoinjectors as a re seller of reman injectors from a ford. Every one has spoke positively about them and they seem like a great investment. I will be ordering a set to replace mine soon. But here comes the question: I recently had my intake manifold off and pulled all the injectors... I did not disconnect the injectors from the fuel rail so I did not replace those o-rings. I did replace the orings on the motor side with some from napa that came in a box with eight in them, but my question is a few of the boxes with the orings came with a plastic hat to go on the injector nozzle... I did not use these as there were none on mine already. I feared that this plastic "hat" would fall off into the motor as there really is not seat in the intake manifold, just a bored hole. Are we supposed to use these "hats"? in the photo from precisioninjectors for our 87-90 jeeps he shows a hat that has an even longer snout.... I plan to remove them in fear they'd fall of inside my motor as it does not appear there is anything to hold it on??? Thank you in advance. Photo from precision refering to the white thing on the nozzle ends.. the ones from nappa would be like a beanie.

egr long gone? did you just plug the port on the intake? or did you remove the valve too and make a block of plate there? I swapped my header out to day for one of the dyno max black jacks and the egr tube is a pain in the a$$ and it is now what is leaking.

Has anyone converted over to the cone filter and noticed an honest improvement in mileage, performance, engine rev, or throttle response? I ask because the surface area on a stock filter is actually greater than that of the cone filter sold by Rusty's for our trucks. (89 4.0 renix) So the only fault i see with the stock box and Filter is the 3x4 air inlet at the front, however there's not much other area for cool air to enter. It appears to me the cone filter may pull more air (or have more air) available with out a choke point, however over half the filter is pulling direct motor heat and the other half is using ambient motor heat, and air that passed through the radiator. This would be especially true when driving slowly on trails. I was debating on ducting a second intake to the stock box, or "swiss cheese" it with several holes all over the lower section. Thoughts and opinions appreciated.

Please explain the less air pressure to me? And don't use boyle's law or the Ideal gas law as Kevin's Off road incorrectly references them to support his claims. Both laws assume sealed containers. When you fill you're tires with air you are adding more molecules of air. The only thing i can think of for a reason the tires with less air may reduce the probability of death wobble is it would absorb more of the "road noise" acting as additional suspension.

Why? Because it holds more fluid? Looks? You have to relocate the fuel resistor, the fan relay and the egr control right?

From what I learned in Doing my lift trying to beat or prevent "death Wobble" starts with well balanced tires. I argued for months with people on here and myself that tires could not start my wobble. But once I replaced the tires the wobble went away. I read everything I could find on Death Wobble. Kevin's off Road says that death wobble not attributed to tires is caused by the trac bar and it's bushings. Their resolve is a supper hard bushing set and a stiff stabilizer. However I read multiple articles and spoke with many many alignment shops and they said loose or worn parts will allow death wobble to show it's face. So chase out any loose or worn parts, IE ball joints, Uppers and Lowers, Tie rods etc for play. If there is play there is a chance that the harmonic that causes death wobble will be able to amplify and shake you to death. While chasing death wobble i ended up replacing everything from trans mount, motor, ball joints upper lower, and all steering components. I replaced everything one part at at time all prior to finding out it was my tires. Regarding a drop pitman arm, or changing your steering style... You have to keep or need to keep your track bar and the drop link parallel or you will get bump steer (wheels turn when you go over a pump because of change in angles). I lifted my front 5" and changed my track bar to one of Rusty's HD bars with a different frame mount and did not want to change the factory linkage. So I dropped my arm 1" from stock to make them parallel. Some people change to a knuckle to knuckle link to eliminate bump steer from our stock Y link style. Some also have retappered their outer c's to bring the linkage up, but then you need to relocated your track bar too. The biggest issue you will have will be your alignment and pinion angle with 6.5" Your lower arms and uppers need to change at that length. http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29966&p=300917&hilit=control+arm+lengths#p300917 front brake lines need to be replaced with longer at that length unless you already have. I found some through napa that were really cheap. I also replaced my parking brake lines when I did my SOA. I switched to a D44 so I did not have to worry about Drive line length. If you're not changing your pumpkin length your drive line maybe way too short unless you addressed that too. If the drive line is too short your yoke may come out or cause vibrations on up the truck. I'm sure the others on here will chime in with better info, but I have just been going over mine and am avid in researching and over complicating things. Feel free to ask. When setting your rear axle if you're welding perches keep in mind if you do not use a slip yoke eliminator you want your pumpkin parallel to your transfer case. If you do use a yoke eliminator you want your pumpkin parallel with your drive line. If you don't do your best to follow this you will cause oscillation and vibrations as each end of the drive shaft will actually travel at different speeds through the rotation.

That would be awesome. I don't' have a pick and pull near me anymore. I recently moved. :(

I had cut off the compression style and was using hose clamps on the barbed end that is there, however after all the years the ends have deteriorated and i'm afraid if i tighten the clamps anymore the tee will collapse.

I contacted the dealer today. It's cheaper to buy all the hoses and the Tee from wrangler parts online then to order the tee. $46 dollars plus shipping at the dealer...

Still In Need.

As it turns out the Bosch BSH 12009 is heated, there was an input error awhile back by bosch in their product descriptions... They have since corrected it, but most of the retail parts stores have not updated their catalog info from the vendor. the BSH 12008 is for the 2.5 motor not the 4.0 a glitch that was in the napa system.

I've recently decided to rid my self of the stubborn plastic tank. I found a prior thread covering using a Mac Brand expansion tank, pics from that post at bottom. http://macsradiator.com/shop/surge-overflow-tanks/replacment-jeep-radiator-fill-tanks.html I have previously replaced all the hoses trying to fix my leaking issue and now comes my problem. I cannot find the tee Item number 8 in the photo and searching the factory part number on google produced nothing. I found the heater valve (Item 3) at both napa and autozone, but no tee. I found a company that sells all the hoses and the tee but not just the tee. http://www.teamgrandwagoneer.com/parts/Detailed/1763.html ANY HELP would be appreciated... Also I'm wondering if anyone knows where I can pick up a new 2.5L expansion tank new. Or am i better of just using a universal tank for the conversion? http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... 8&start=15 Edit::: I ended up replacing the J shaped tee with a Brass Pex Tee from local hardware. The hoses are 5/8" and a 5/8" barb tee was not available except in plastic. Pex is the flexible water pipe that they are using to replace copper.

I've never heard of borg warner are they a good brand?

Answering some of my own questions, but still wonder why the bosch that is recommended in unheated and our fsm shows heated. Turns out heated vs. unheated does not matter on location, but means it has an internal heater. http://www.aa1car.com/library/o2sensor.htm

And what really makes it more confusing... Napa states the NGK 23553 (heated ) is comparable to the Bosch 12009 (unheated) I guess what my question is am I better off ordering the one that states heated like the NGK... Problem is the only ones that are at parts stores instock in my area are the Bosch 12009 and some other brand that is also designated as Unheated. Will the truck run the same or will the sensor just not last as long etc...

I've got an 89 comanche with only 1 Oxygen sensor on the manifold. It is 3 wire, however when I went to napa to get a replacement they had two options listed for my truck. Bosch BSH 12008 (heated) and Bosch BSH 12009 (unheated). What made me question which to purchase is they recommended Unheated, but it's on the manifold/header so I'd think heated. I looked in the FSM for the 1990 that I found online and I only see heated. So I checked with autozone and they too recommend the unheated O2 sensor for the truck. Can anyone advise me or explain the difference between the two? Truck is 89 4x4 I6

Saw these up in portland oregon http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/pts/2672908657.html