MariaManche

new drums, hardware, and brake lines. 4.56 ratio. still has the swivel point for the rear brake proportional valve.

Recently dragged home this 195* Willys M38. Hoping to start on this project next summer and I thought it would be neat for the Comanche Club to decide how it is built. The poll feature only allows for so many questions, so the first round of polling will be for Engine, Trans, And T-Case. More will follow as progress is made and parts are collected. Right now, it is a blank slate. I removed the body and built a roll around body cart for it. There was no engine, transmission (t90) is on the workbench and is in bad shape, transfer case is still attached to the trans. The good.. Frame is extremely solid. Body is somewhat solid. Needs some floor panel and rocker work. Military Version (Beefier Frame?) Axle gearing both seem to be healthy The bad.. No title No engine T90 transmission is in bad shape

I tried creating a new topic, and I do not see options to create a poll? Can you send me a snip of where i find this feature?

Thanks for all the unput guys! It would be cool if there was a voting system on here and the ComancheClub forum could literally decide how this is built. I think I am on the hunt for a 4.3!

Dragged this beauty out of a farmer's field... The bad: no engine t90 trans is in rough shape no title or previous life information The good: Frame is extremely solid Body has cool patina that I would like to somewhat preserve. The plan: I have no idea.... I am open to community members input on how I should build this thing. Step 1 - is figuring out what drivetrain I want to steal. I will probably keep the original dana 44 and dana 25 axles.

Comanche is under surgery this winter. I hope to have this 8.8 installed before spring! Also, I dragged home another project.... not sure which direction it is going to go. 1950 willys m38.

Well, she didn't win best "Cherokee" (no MJ class) in the show, but I was just super stoked to get it back together and drive it 60 miles down the road.

New Starter is in, and Driver side floorboard is done. My advice for someone thinking about doing their floor pans is; Make sure your floor is actually in need of a full replacement. If not, just cut out the bad areas and replace with new. Buy a quality floor pan. Self-taping screws are a huge help to get everything snug. On the passenger side, I will just be cutting out the rusted-out portion and replacing. For now, I am going to get the truck back together, take it to a local jeep show (Shared in Southeast adventure planning), and put some miles on it. This method of matching the transmission tunnel shape worked great. Fasten the new pan to the tunnel with sheet metal screws, cut the pan to desired shape with cut off wheel, and then use a small reciprocating saw (with the new pan being the guide) to cut the tunnel to the exact fitment of the pan.

Slowly but surely. the C2C panel has been a lot of work to get fitted correctly.

Coheed, Yes, I cut the spot welds from the inside of the fender. This got a little "hairy" due to that thin sheet metal and not being able to fit my drill/spot weld drill bit. I just used a small cut off wheel and basically cut a shallow "X" into each spot weld. Then used a chisel/hammer to pop them free. I will take a better picture tonight and share it with you. My next step is to paint the body surface with weldable primer, drill out holes for spot welds in the patch piece, paint the patch piece with weldable primer, and then tack her in place.

Patch Panel #1 ready to be welded in place. Question. Is that black trim on the front fender, door, and front of bed stock? Does not appear to be and the more I look at it, the more I don't like it.

More floor work. Trying to do the most professional job I possibly can.

I know anyone following this build thread is tired of hearing about mice nest…. But i just can’t seem to get rid of them. Worked on the driver side floor tonight and found a huge nest in the uniframe. This does reassure me that I made the right decision to replace the floor pans even if they seem “acceptable” to most.

Thanks for the advice! I cleaned up the stud with a wire brush on a die grinder and sprayed a liberal amount of Kroil on the top and bottom side. I’ll see if she breaks tomorrow after work.

Can anyone tell me how to remove this stud? It holding up my removal of the top uniframe support. I have seen pictures of it out and in.

Awesome work! I am looking forward to keeping up with this build.

Thanks for all the advice! Floor work continues... This BLAIR spot weld cutter is helping a lot! unfortunately, I broke it, but the company is sending me a new one for free.

Per Pete’s advice, I dug a little further to find where the rust causing water was coming from….. found more rust. Just got in some C2C floor panels to help with the patches. I don’t think I need to do a complete floor install. anyone have advice on removing the rubber sealant goo that covers the floor board.

Thanks! I’m going to look up detail king

Nothing exciting happening on the MJ. I did install new struts on the camper shell back glass. And found an old license plate I forgot I had. Registered in 1988.

Comanche Update This has to be the last mouse nest...... There is basically no where else for one to hide. While I was taking out the wiper motor and wiper arms, I noticed there was a lot of slop in the arms. This makes me think that this might be the culprit for the very annoying rattle noise behind the dash. I plan to replace the wiper arm bushings and try to correct the slop before reinstalling. I have been taking the Comanche out to National Forest for some turkey hunting this spring. I do not want it wasting away in the garage like it lived its previous life.

Comanche Update I should have taken more pictures of the process but I completely dissembled the dash to clean and fix wiring issues. Most of the wiring was in good shape but some had chew marks exposing the conductive copper. I used liquid electrical tape to fix most of these, but for one I had to cut out the bad and solder/heat-shrink. Blower motor was re-installed after deep cleaning that area of the engine bay. Painted my fuse box metal bracket and got the wiper fluid and puke box reservoirs looking like brand new. On my first test drive, I turned on the AC and the motor blew strong briefly and then shut off. I am guessing I blew a fuse but I have not dove into that yet. I drove the Comanche for about 80 miles and made note of action items to fix. There is an extremely annoying rattle that I need to locate and it still smells terrible even after all my cleaning efforts. I am going to try an ozone machine off of amazon to fix this now that I think all the mouse remains are gone. It is extremely nice having the original radio working.

I put together a parts list of what I need for the 8.8 swap. I will also need to re-gear the front dana 30 to 3.73. Does anyone of recommendations on 3.73 ratio ring and pinion for the Dana 30? rear axle swap 8.8 New rotors/pads XJ leaf shackle 1" spacers 1280 lb leafs Diff cover leaf/shock mount kit yoke adapter Dana 30 3.73 ring/pinion

Still working on getting the dash back together after deep cleaning and fixing wiring issues. I am dragging another piece of the puzzle home today. Ford 8.8, limited slip, disc brakes, 3.73.