Warthog

Again I’m pretty sure this is yet another dumbass question but this is how you cure ignorance, with knowledge! No cure for stupidity tho. I digress, I’m puttin ac in my comanche build. It did not come with it. My question is will the ac condenser fit in the factory heater core box or do I need to pull tye one out of my donors? Reason is one has a crack in the bottom and the other is a pain to get in to take it out. Figured I’d ask you higher ups on the jeep pole. I’m changing out the condenser and cores while I’m there so know that much. Never installed ac before. My old muscle cars either had it when I got em or didn’t come with it….very few did. Wasn’t an issue in my youth but these texas summers will hurt an old man!

Lol I hope I put this I The right spot. I ordered some axle shafts and when the shipment arrived this was included in the box! It obviously isn’t any part of an axle. I have no idea what it is. I’ve emailed and called and nothing. I’d chunk it but again I don’t know what it is. Lol hope one of you may know.

Thanks for the input people! Especially the info on the Rusty’s leafs. That’s what I was afraid of. Il grab some new sticks probably the 1700 and some shackles. Thanks again!

Finally finished the front suspension on my three builds! I put 3.5 rubicon express springs up front along with acos on em. Figured why not I’m there and they were cheap enough. My question is how much lift in the rear to set level or close? Did the acos mainly cause I did the same spring plus 3.5 leaf’s on my Cherokee and it looks like something out of the 70’s. Hopin to adjust it out to a better stance. On my comanche I put the same 3.5 coil springs and acos on but haven’t gotten springs or lift yet. Rusty’s has a 4” leaf set. I was just curious if anyone has lifted theirs and what did you do in the rear? Springs, or lift shackles, both? One ton or regular springs? My springs are flat and done! So I have nothing to go off for a reference point. I was Thinkin 1750 leaf’s and shackle lift but don’t want to over lift so to speak. Any advice would rock! I’m gonna install airbags for hauling but that’s way off and don’t want to rely on air for lift…again did this in the 70’s and 80’s. Too old for that sort of ride on a daily. Thanks in advance! Peace. Also boomerang shackles? Put em on the yj because the lift came with em. They look cool and not opposed to using em just mainly lookin for a level or close to level stance

Need some info advice ect. Put a new axle and gears along with all new suspension and 3.5 lift on my comanche and cherokee both. Same lift suspension ect. I’m having an issue with the track bar. Got the rubicon express re1600 adjustable track bar. It wouldn’t adjust far enough so got the drop bracket that mounts to the frame, also rubicon express. Drilled out the mounting holes so the track bar bolt would fit and still not enough adjustment. Don’t have an engine in the comanche yet so thought maybe that’s it. With the wieght of the motor would depress the front end thus allowing a closer fit so to speak. Well just finished doin the axle in the Cherokee and it does have a motor and same situation. Do I need the drop bracket that mounts to the axle? Has anyone else had this issue? Tye comanche was 2wd but I made it 4wd, but the cherokee is all factory minus the controls springs ect. Hope this makes sense. Any help would rock!

Ok been pondering this a few days. From what I understand when you go to a 1 piece axle instead of a 2 piece axle shaft there isn’t really a spot for the seal on the passenger side. Rather than half @$$ dremelin in a spot, or sending it down the pumpkin tube with no place to bump up to, why can’t you send it down the outside axle shaft of the tube and have it bump up against the outside shaft seal? It would give it a stop plus would hold it in place not allowing it to shimmy so to speak and fail? Or better yet does anyone make an outside seal with the inside axle dimensions? Has anyone tried this?

Ok I’ve decided to stuff a 327 in my comanche, cherokee, and yj. Wanted to do a 283, but had trouble finding one that wouldn’t take a priest to bring back to life, so was gonna do strokers since I have three 4.0’s but low and behold had a 337 fall into my lap! Then found a couple others in good shape so all should take good rebuilds. Curious if anyone has done a v8 swap besides the ls as to motor mounts and radiators? Will be keeping the ax15’s and getting the Novak adapter. Yes it will be carbed as my uncle is a wizard with quadrajets! The go to guy since the 70’s. Hei Distributor and aluminum heads and intake. Decent cam for what I want each vehical to do specifically. Just need motor mount and radiator info. Many thanks in advance!

Just trying to get some info from anyone that has stuffed an old school v8 in a comanche. Got a 327 and Thinkin real hard on putting it in my comanche. Doin a total ground up build and still doin suspension work at this stage. Got 3 builds goin and all of them are being set up very similar. Was gonna do the 4.0 strokers in em but the thought of a v8 really has my attention. Being they will be stick shift and carbed there’s no issues of computer mating or compatibility issues. I have a 3 core aluminum radiator of some company I bought for the build plus did the hood vents, not for cooling so much as I just dig the look. I’d stick with the ax15 and do the Novak bell housing so the rest is still standard so to speak. Was gonna do a 283 which I absolutely love! But a huge huge fan of the 327. And I got one free. Regardless I’d rebuild whatever engine I shove in there. Trust my work more than “it was running few years ago!”. Yes I’m goin carb and well aware of peoples views on fuel injection vs carbs. I like what I like and know what I know. Mainly just curious if anyone has stuffed an old school engine in an mj or xj? What issues did you have? Any help appreciated!

Hello my peoples! Doin the cad delete or solid axle conversion. Does the passenger side seal go in the tube or where the rubber that looks like it squeezed out of the tube mating area? Watched several videos as well as tried to research it but it’s always just glossed over or not shown. I’m sure this may seem like a dumbass question but these are my first jeep builds and first ever build of this type. Do you trim off the rubber? Any help would rock

So was thinking, yes dangerous round here. Anyway back in the day everyone wanted ranch stuff, skyjacker was popular then super lift and procomp, rough country was the rage for a spell. Now there’s several new companies ect. I’ve noticed the older brands tend to get slammed as each new brand comes out. Got a cousin with superlift another with skyjacker, brother had rough country on his gladiator and I used rough country on a commander. Using rubico now only because they were the only company I could find where I can piece mill my kits. Do have rough country on the yj but rub on mj and xj. Asked my cousin who’s been a jeeper since the 70’s who makes the best or who is good. His reply was all of em now are. I get some are brand loyal, some like to brag about how much their kit cost which tends to make me think they are dumbass’. I know every company will have a dud product depending on if John, Jain or Han was workin the machines. Rub was being touted as one of the best but have noticed it’s beginners to get slammed like rc. Personally I think rc is as good as any. Big difference is what shocks are being used. Mono vs dual tube, nitrogen vs whatever is popular at the moment. I do believe the add leaf kits are sub par compared to full leafs. A lot of the stuff in each company’s kits are manufactured by other sources which means many kits have the same components just a different badge. The cut this topic some I wanted to know your favorite brands and why. Also why you dislike what brands. I also would like first hand knowledge not I heard from a guy who heard from a guy ect. No hearsay. And no slamming just to slam or because it’s cheap. Back in the day cheap guitars were junk and you couldn’t play em cause the action was impossible wouldn’t stay in tune ect. Now there are tons of cheap guitars that are awesome! Was a professional musician for years and years and would use cheaper guitars in rough joints as I wasn’t gonna take $5000 guitars into some place they could get broken. Thanks

I’m hopin someone can help me. Watch a bunch of videos of people basically rattling to hear themselves talk. I don’t need history lessons or how a car works. Just wanna know what size shim I need. The driveshaft is -17 degrees on the bottom however if I place the angle finder…my phone it says -18 degrees. Lol checked all over and that’s the readings I get. So figured I’d go with the -17 since I did see all the people in the videos measuring on the bottom…bout all I could get from em. The axle or pinion measures -6 degrees. Measured from rear diff cover bolts, the little metal shelves? On the pumpkin and the u joint. The pinion nose slopes up so didn’t figure that was a good spot. Anyway that leave’s -11 or -23 if I add them. Thought I was supposed to have a positive number to subtract but that’s the numbers I got. Does this seem high? With a 6 degree shim I’m still at -5? It’s a cherokee xj 87 with rubicon express 3.5 leafs. Not sure if I will need to do any shimming on my comanche or not but the cherokee is up on the building block first. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Hello my peoples! So the pia out Dana 30 seal. Well no more! So I bought the seal install tool and it only works for the drivers side. Tried a few different methods I got off here and some other sites and nope not for me. Seal would go crooked or couldn’t get enough bang power. First off not a fan of beating things with a hammer, especially seals. So here is my tool and pics I took if you guys want a simple bout $20 tool. The socket was used for sizing the pipe coupler. 1 7/16”. Get a threaded coupler, cap reducer, three washers ranging from one that fits just inside the tube one that fits th inner outer portion of the tube on the knuckle side and one that fits the next axle indention. If you can get a small tube coupler great if not a saws all and a grinder will help pull it down to size. Get some 1/2” all thread although my store said it was 3/4 it’s 1/2. Make sure it reaches past the knuckles and reaches into the cad housing. Cut your pipe about an inch or so and thread the cap reducer in but leave about 1/4” or so to seat into the seal. I ground the threads on the cap reducer cause they didn’t match my all thread. Then take one of the nuts and grind off the angles some to where it fits into the tube coupler and will pass the the center of your seal. Clean it up with some sand paper or Emory cloth. I plan on jb welding this in. That’s it. To use slide the all thread thru the axle. Put your seal on the the coupler nut thing then a nut on the back side of that. Snug and seat it into the seal. It’s a small area to work in why the coupler has to be short. Next slide the small washer on from the knuckle side til it just seats in the tube. Then the next size then the last one the biggest. Now the spacer I plan on havin my brother tack it onto the large washer but doesn’t matter. Slide this on. It’s bout an inch to inch and a half in length. Not necessary but helps cause it moves your pulling nut out from the knuckle edge and makes it easier to put a wrench on. Then the nut and once it’s all snug do a quick check make sure it’s lined up then tighten. You will feel it snug once it bottoms. Just fyi it’s pretty firm pull all the way thru so don’t stress. Used it first time and set first time. Feel free to ask any questions and the washer sizes I don’t have off hand but can measure and give them if you guys need. I know the first one is same size as the seal and then it’s the next up size and the next up size from that. You guys have helped me so much thought I could try to pay it forward.

So was wondering if anyone that has done away with the cad and gone with the solid axle shaft, did you keep the helper bearing the split axle uses or do away with all the internals? Sorry to keep asking questions I’m sure many of you think stupid, these are my first jeep full ground up builds and I only wanna do it once. Not stupid just ignorant. Knowledge cures ignorance. Thank you guys for your help and patience!

Ok peeps! It is a 7/16-14!!!! Got it done!

I have scoured the internet and come up empty. What size is the carrier bearing bolts??? Found one guy said 1/2-13 and one said 7/16-14. Got a bummed thread hole and wanted to tap it out but need the correct tap size. Is this some trade secret on bolt sizes? Tons on torque but nothing on size! Thanks in advance. It’s out of a 1987 Cherokee goin into an 86 comanche

Ok I’m sure there are those like me that just want an easy and non complicated way to resolve pinion depth. What I did was take part of a boomerang shackle bracket and layed it on the carrier bearing bracket mount…on the housing itself the flat part, bolt hole to bolt hole. Make sure it’s flat. Measured to the pinion head with no shims just setup race and bearing in. Then subtracted 2.25 from it and pow perfect pattern. Make your own setup race. A dremel and a stone attachment takes about two songs to do. Setup bearings took about one song. Used that Vermeer caliper. Measure the thickness of the shackle or whatever you use and zero that way you can get a better measurement then try to see the line at the bottom of you cross piece. May not be correct ship way but will get you in the ballpark to start running test patterns. Peace

Ok so I’m rebuilding my Dana 30 on an 87 Cherokee and a comanche. Bought a race install tool. The one that’s aluminum with all the changeable discs. Which one fits the races? Yes this does sound like a dumbass question but I have two that may or may not fit as I have no clue how these should fit the race!….first axle build ever so please forgive my ignorance. I’d assume it’s supposed to fit flush and snug but one doesn’t flush and the other slips just inside the edge. I don’t wanna groove my races which I know are harder than Lithuanian math equations….trying to keep my terminology clean, I think one is 73mm and the other is 68? Something along those lines anyway. Anyone know what size I need? Do I have the wrong tool kit? Help anyone pleas

I’m rebuilding an 87 mj. Redoing the Dana 30. Want to replace hubs rotors pads calipers but can only find for 90+. If I change all this can I use 90+ on pre 90’s comanche? Would like to upgrade but not gonna blow gobs of cash not am I gonna do the wj or zj or whatever conversion. Basically will 90 stuff bolt to pre 90 knuckles? Staying with 15’s. Tried to find stuff on here and the net but found stuff talkin about everything but what I’m askin. Thanks for any wisdom drops my way.

Well been doing the suspensions on the comanche cherokee and wrangler! Almost done with this portion along with painting/coating them. Building 4.0 strokers for all, ax15 and np231 rebuilt in all. Put 411 in xj and yj but 456 in the pelican. Doing grizzlies in the @$$ and Spartans upfront with moly axles all way round. Gonna run 33/12.50/15 on all of em. Rubicon 3.5 lift on xj and mj but the yj got a rough country 4.5 with military wraps. Edelbrock carbs on Clifford intakes and cammed differently for appropriate uses. Header of undetermined brand at the moment and hei Distributor. Aluminum radiators and hood vents…mainly cause I dig the look. I waited for over a year to get these vents! Rod louvers is only company that makes the xj Maximus units. Bought a set over a year ago and went to get another set but they were out of stock. After 6 mo I emailed and found out the guy who makes em was very ill! Said soon as he was able he would start back to makin em. Anyway when these popped back up couple weeks ago I grabbed! Put rugged ridge hd steering on all of em so I don’t have to keep spares for each, same with tires and wheels. Fixing to move to tranny and t case rebuilds then engine. Haven’t decided on interior other than door panels will be tread bright aluminum that I’ll most likely spray black and bolt on. Already sunk rivet nuts for that application. Any other ideas or suggestions please feel free to send. Love advice and knowledge drops! That’s my beloved pig in the pics….unfortunately she passed and won’t see there completion. Lost her thanksgiving. My new girl Pearl is awesome! although she ain’t pig she’s a great partner in crime! Wish all peace and safety! Best to you guys

Need some help from you guys. I have an 86 Comanche I’m building. Want to do a bit of lift. 3” or so possibly 4”. Somewhere in that range. Issue is I have no coils to go off of and the rear leafs are pretty much shot. I was thinking some gs 1750 springs for the rear with core 4x4 adjustable shackles 2” to 3” ones I believe. It’s the longer set over the 1” to 2”. Any idea on this? And what size coil to level? I have no reference to go off of. Want to run 33 maybe 35 if I need to fill the gap so to speak but prefer 33. 456 gears. Thought about an Soa but that’s too much for me I believe. Lifted my cherokee with a 3.5 and it hit perfect. Almost too tall but I like it there. Many thanks in advance. Oh and the reason for those leafs is I’ve read some have gained up to 2” with em. I have no clue so figured time for expert advice.

Hello all! New here and fairly new to jeeps period. I am building both a Cherokee and a Comanche from the ground up. Both will have 4.0’s built by me with edelbrock carbs and a Clifford intake. Rebuilding both front and rear axles. New gears, 4:10 with moly axles and lockers on the Cherokee and 4:56 moly axles and lockers on the Comanche. Currently lookin for a hp d30 for the Comanche as it was a 2wd. I’m good in the Cherokee. My issue is with the tranny tcase. From what I’ve gathered the tranny of choice is the ax15. If I’m wrong please advise. I’m wanting to install an ax15 and the tcase from a yj or tj or anything else per suggestions. Read about clocking issues? Not sure I totally understand this meaning. What is involved in putting this into both vehicles? From what I understand the clocking is mating the tranny with the tcase. If I install both from the same vehical will it be a bolt install? Any suggestions would be appreciated as well as any suggestions with my builds. Oh the Comanche is an 86 2wd and the Cherokee is an 87 4wd. Both are sticks. Toyed with the idea of a 283 install but decided to build the 4.0. Should pull some good numbers when I’m thru. Shooting for 300 but will be happy with 250+. I have an h.o. 4.0 I’m building for the Comanche as it has no motor at all at the moment. Rebuilding the remix 4.0 in the Cherokee for it. Deleting the computer all together and kickin it old school. Much more simple. To me anyway. Many thanks in advance!