Dandxj

Does anyone know of a source for the OEM style grease boot for the Track Bar and the Pitman Arm. The OEM has a metal base which presses over the "ball joint". I can find universal boots but they are all rubber and just slip over the ball joint. I just think the ones with the metal base ring are a better design.

Thanks for looking. I need the one on the right - up side down U shaped with rubber . The other one does not look OEM. I am interested in them. Please PM me with a price.

Thanks-

I am looking for the exhaust hangers for muffler/tailpipe. The kinda upside down u shaped thingy behind the muffler and the hanger at the back end of the tailpipe. 1992 SB.

Yes I have the manual mini console. The boot opening ends about 3 inches below the top. It looks to end about between the Park (P) and Reverse (R) on the Ebay picture sent by Eagle-SX4. I am not sure of any width differences. I wonder how bad it would look to cut off the E brake and storage box from a XJ console. When you say "auto insert" do you mean the cover with PRND on it that the shifter sticks through? I wonder if one from a full size XJ would fit.

Thanks Eagle_SX4. I believe that is what I am looking for. I did not know they came in an XJ. I always thought they all had full consoles. That one on Ebay is kinda pricey. I have 2WD so I would still need a cover for the TC lever hole.

I must of had a brain fart. I meant to post this in the repair/ mod section. Anyway, I want to put an AW4 in with a bench seat. The MJ currently has a AX5 manual. I know the full console will not fit.

Did the MJ ever come with an automatic, bench seats and a floor console? If not has anyone tried to create this combination?

Based on my 1990 MJ it is unlocked.

I am not trying to challenge anyone just trying to learn - but my parts list shows a different part number beginning in 1990. Also my 92 service manual says not to use the set up procedure for pre 1990 trucks. I do not know why or what the difference is. I have obtained a 1989 LSV and I am hoping to install it in a 1992 truck, so I guess I need to find the procedure for a 1989 MJ.

Excellent cutaway! Can I assume that the spring is broken and the push rod/bottom piston that contacts the upper piston/plunger is missing? Do you recall what year truck the LSV is from?

Thanks for the reply. The top spring valve housing came off fairly easy. There is a little sludge but not too bad. I assume brake parts cleaner is appropriate for cleaning. You mentioned trying to take apart the piston. Is it inside the round portion behind the plastic cap and snap ring. I have not attempted to remove those. Would you recommend I just leave those alone? Is there usually brake fluid in the lower portion? I wonder if there is a fluid flow diagram available somewhere.

Has anyone disassembled/cleaned/reassembled a LSV before? Any precautions and guidance would be appreciated. Thanks

I am looking for the bracket which bolts on the differential cover and attaches to the rod for the Load Sensing Valve. It is for a Dana 35 rear axle.

Thanks - I have seen that cut away and it appears that the drilled channel for the by-pass port is the same diameter for its full length from the threaded part up into the center portion for the plunger. Mine is definitely not like that. The 1/16 in. bit slides in fine but stops before entering the bore for the plunger. The wire from a bread loaf tie wrap does go through. I just want to be sure it is suppose to be reduced like that before I do something stupid like drilling it out.

I have the Distribution Block disassembled and I am cleaning it. I am using a 1/16 in. drill bit to ensure the line ports are clear. The bit goes in fine for all the ports except for the by-pass port on the bottom of the block. The bit enters the port but will not go through to the center. I can insert a small wire through and it is visible looking down the plunger hole. I can blow into the port but it is much more difficult than with the other ports. Does the by-pass port have a reduced size at the bottom ( top if it were in the truck ) or is mine clogged ?

Hey, thanks for the suggestions. I bought a cheap pair of needle nosed pliers and ground the ends down until they fit into the block and could grab the piston. It took a bit of twisting and pulling, but it came out. Now it is time to put the block and piston in the UT cleaner and assess the condition of the O-rings.

Thank you very much for the photo. Now I know what I am looking for. I do not suppose there is an easy way to adjust without removing the cluster, make adjustment, reinstall cluster, verify RPMs, repeat as needed.

Thank you for the picture and info. It appears that my piston has been pushed forward - to the right in the photo. The reduced section is not under the switch hole. The pliers I used will not reach deep enough to grab the piston. I will get a cheap pair of needle nose and grind the tip and try again. Thanks--

Thanks for replying. Have you per chance removed the piston from the block? If so how did you accomplish this?

Thanks for the info. Does anyone have a photo of the adjustment "knob" or will it be obvious when the tach is out of the dash? Any ideas what would cause the tach to drift ? It is original to the truck and was "accurate" in the past.

1990 4.0L Renix AW-4 At idle the tach in the dash reads 500 RPM in park. This seemed low so I plugged in a handheld tach into the diagnostic terminal next to the relay center and it was reading 950 RPM. What would cause the difference? Is the 1990 tach adjustable? TIA

Were you ever successful in rebuilding the distribution block? If so where did you source the o-rings and how did you remove the piston from the block?

Does anyone have any suggestions for a Rear View Mirror cement ? My mirror does not seem to stay attached for more than a year or so. I am wondering if using the windshield sun screen just bakes the metal button causing the glue to fail. It always seems to fall off during the summer.

Thanks for the replies. The broken tabs are missing, so I will have to get creative to replace them. These are getting scarce and kinda pricey. I am trying to avoid loosing one going over a neighborhood speed bump,