CheepComanche

I have the slider all apart and got the aluminum sand blasted. Ill repaint it when I get it back. The only thing stopping me now is getting that glass run fabric for the slider. I can't find where to get it. Any ideas?

I'm in the process of taking apart my slider so i can clean everything up, repaint, and reseal. I'm not exactly sure what parts I'm supposed to glue together and what parts shouldn't have glue in them. The last time I had the glass out, the glass people filled the bottom channel with glue filling up the drains. I know some of it needs glued but I don't want to make the same mistake.

So In July of 2024 I got the window professionally removed and reinstalled. About a month ago I found it leaking again. I contacted the company, they were cool about it, got it pulled back out and this time I took the Jeep home with the glass removed. I found the seam sealer had failed just like ghetdjc320 said. I cleaned all of it out to find only a minor mount of surface rust which I wire brushed off; then applied some urethane bonding primer. I’ll get the window glued back in, in a couple weeks. (It’s going to the body shop for roof damage)

I’m running Bilstein 5100 shocks in the rear. I like them very much; they’re softer than the rancho shocks I used to have.

That’s what I originally thought, but it does the same thing with the sensor unplugged. I will play around with the Jeep some more and see what I can figure out. Sometimes problems go away on their own

With the ignition on or the car running It won’t read lower than that. It does move when cranking though. If I unplug the wire from the sender while the cars running, it will drop to 100. But if the car is off and the ignition is on it won’t sit lower than 120.

I got the Jeepcables done. The truck turns over much faster and it hasn’t done anything that I explained earlier. However, there’s been a few things I’ve noticed but haven’t said anything about. The temp gauge is stuck at 120, It will go up but not down. And my isa motor used to click 3 times after shutoff and now it barely works or sometimes doesn’t do anything.

I did get a brand new battery. Just a standard lead acid group 58 from Costco. I used a jump pack to start it and I definitely had the positive and negative correct. Since I’ve had some time to mess with it, I'm pretty sure my problems are coming from the battery terminals. They are clean and tight, but if I move them I can get the truck to do the weird things I talked about originally. It’s weird to me that battery terminals could cause such problems but I believe I have found the issue. Once I’ve got my jeepcables upgrade done, I’ll know for sure!

Thanks! I’ll be sure to check that too. My alternator is about a year old but that doesn’t mean it’s good.

I’ve always removed it out the top by unscrewing it, grabbing the threads of the filter, then lifting it up. Pretty much exactly as eaglescout526 said

I used this and an excuse to buy the Jeepcables big 7 upgrade. But my battery terminals are clean and tight. I’ll take a look at the ignition switch plug tomorrow morning, but so far I can’t see anything wrong so I'm kind of hoping that the big 7 upgrade will take care of whatever the problem is. I also noticed the lights dimming when the hit the brakes which sounds like a big connection issue somewhere. My main fear is that the problem is something I can’t see like the ecu.

Yesterday I accidentally left my keys in my Jeep with the ignition on all day. Of course the battery was completely dead (no power at all) But now after jump starting it I’m having this issue where sometimes when I turn the ignition on I have almost no power. Like the battery is dead but it’s not. When the truck does have power and starts, it has really bad idle fluctuation. I worried that leaving the ignition on all day fried something. Could this have damaged the ecu? Also, as a result of this, my head unit no longer functions properly. Half the buttons don’t work

Alright, thanks guys!

If there is a difference I can’t tell so it’s probably just fine and hasn’t changed. I know I’m just overthinking it. My mind gets to worrying. Thanks!

On Christmas night we had a wind storm that broke a very big branch out of the tree I park next to. It fell quite a distance landing on the cab of my truck, doing most of the damage to the roof just above the windshield. I’m very impressed with how little damage there appears to be for how heavy the branch was. Obviously the truck will need some body work to look good again but what I keep thinking about is the structural integrity of the a-pillars. I know it looks fine but it was a lot of weight landing on the roof and I’ve head the a-pillars are made of cheese and bend very easy. Just wanted to get some opinions, Thanks!

Yes, hopefully I did it right. I opened one of the front bleeders connected a line which I submerged in a bottle of brake fluid then bled the rear brakes. The brake light on the dash never came on but my guess is that the light just doesn't work anymore.

Thanks for all the info. I got the pedal to where I think it should be, I'm just not very confident as I haven't ever done this process before. Again, my main concern was the fact that the MC sucked in air and I would have to bleed the entire system again. Being that the Comanches braking system is so much larger than I'm used to, I'm unsure of how long it takes to move air all the way to the back bleeders.

For the past couple days I have been struggling to get a firm pedal. I found different methods on how to correctly bleed the Comanche brakes and am not sure if it matters how its done exactly. What I'm more concerned about however is the fact that I got distracted while bleeding, let the MC get too low and sucked air in. Do I now need to Bench bleed it? Bench bleeding is something that doesn't really make any sense to me. I've never done it however most of my experience comes from the aircooled Volkswagen world where everything is as simple as it gets.

That's exactly it. So there's two thermal check valves?

There is this part on my 2.5L 1989 that I haven't been able to find any information on. It has two vacuum lines going to it. One of them supplies vacuum and other one goes into the air box. In the air box there's this little piece of plastic that has another vacuum line coming out of it. Which then goes into a check valve and finally to the pre heater hose. This all seems extremely complex as my friends 1988 4.0 has only one vacuum line to open the pre heater. Any insight is appreciated

Sounds great! How do I go about this process of sending you the part?

What do you charge for the original ones?

Like the title entails, I am looking for a new isa motor for my 1989 2.5 litre but am unsure of which one to get. The closed idle switch on my original one broke, and the replacement one I got from rockauto doesn't seem to work consistently.

It’s possible my ecu is bad. In the future I’d like to go to a stand-alone like megasquirt.

I've seen other peoples 2.5's with a WOT switch. Mine doesn't have this, is it supposed to?