KCsurfer420

So I finished my stroker and installed it yesterday and started it up, It iddles great but if i jump in it and start to take off it it starts to stumble at around 22 to 25oo rpms. I installed a tps recently on the old renix set up so i just swaped that over to the 99 intake with a hiseco adapter and i ajusteded it to factory specs all was good there, I also swaped out the CPS when i did the swap to 4x4 so under 100 miles on that as well and it tested fine on the resistance test? I feel like ive hit a brick wall. I tested the iac and it tested fine but how do you test the knock sensor and the coil?????? I drove the jeep to get the exzhaust today and i coudent get over 30 mph. I would get up to about 2200 rpms and then start to stumble and back fire violently but if i let off the gas it seem to run fine. My MJ is a 1988 with AW4 and a 4.7 stroker with the 99 intake and a borella header i swaped all of the sensors over from my renix set up over to the 4.7 and adaped the tps as stated above. :mad: help help help before i burn this truck!!!!!

:agree: Me to...

So I have been bulding a MJ and i have a 4.7 stroker that was bult out of a 99 block 93 head and 99 intake/w a hiseco tb adapter and a 95 fuel rail every all of the sensors are from the renix motor. My question is what is the fuel presure supose to be at the fuel rail? I just replaced the pump in the tank and I have good presure before the fuel regulator but after i prime the pump i don't seem to have any presure after the regulator. If i press on that relife valve on the rail barly any gas comes out i replaced the fuel regulator and with both of the o-rings i diden notice any presure at the rail but if i took of the first smaller o ring off i got a little more presure at the rail but no spraing just a slight (very slight) dribble... I don't want to skrew up the new motor bu cranking it to much with out breaking it in so what do you think?.... :huh???:

So does the 99 xj pump have the improved impeller? if so I'm headed back to autozone..... and what do you want for that milled housing?

So a little update...... I went ahead and purchased the water pump out of a 2003 jeep wrangler from autozone ( new duralast @58.00) but here's the catch :mad: the pump does have the upgraded impeller desighn Ill post up some pics lated and be doing a complete write up once i have every thing in place and have confermed what i have stated in my last few postings. but on to the catch :shake: Well aparently it is the corect rotation for the pump in our mj's but in the 99 up blocks the pump mounting holes were changed. All but one of the mounting bolts match up, its that one that won't that gets ya. so for this to work i am going to purcase a nother water pump and press off both of the impellers and press the newer desighned impeller on to the W/P from our erra water pump. not a big deal as i have a press that will make quick work of this... Ill probably end up returning on of the pumps as defective so i and regain the price of one of the pumps. no in hind site i realy should have looked to see if anyone just sells the impeller for a rebuld on a 99 water pump and started with that and my old water pump but thats in hindsite now so.... but like i said a write up is in proper order soon i promase

So check this out.... :clapping: Mopar infact actualy redesigned the watter pump impellers on the 99 and up 4.0 engines.... they do flow 20% better, they are identical to the flow cooler pump the desighn was actualy coppied from the hiseco impeller desighn. It is a standard rotation pump that is identical to all of are manche's pumps except for the impeller desighn. so after a bit of searching on e-bay a cardone Remaned unit could be had for around 50 and some change. now I won't go with a remaned unit but I'm just saying it is out there ( cardone part number 58-551) I'm in the prosess of trying to find a new unit on fleaby but i may just seeing what vatozone wants for a 2001 TJ water pump thats a new unit... so i guess ill see what comes of that.... :cheers:

This excerpt was coppied from this web site http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoWaterpump.htm It is clear to see here the difference in the two impellers with a near new stock one on the left compared to the Hesco one ( #HF58-455 ). JP magazine even reports that Jeep copied the impeller design and used it on the 2001 up Wranglers. :agree: I am positive that mopar came out with a redesi ned water pump for the 4.0 that flows 20% better. I'm going to do a bit more recerch on this and i will post up what i find here but i bet that i can get one of the wrangler pumps with the redesighned impeller that flows better than buying a flowcoller or a hisco impeller but i still need to recerch this one...... hopefuly i can conclude that you can get a cheaper alternative watter pump that flows better at a cheaper cost, but we will see i guess :dunno:

So I'm in the middle of bulding a mild 4.6l stroker for the comanche, My question.... I have read some where over on naxja that the 99.5 to01 xj water pumps flow 20% better than the earlier versions. I have not been able to find where i read this and searching the net for 4.0 pump displacement hasent helped any. Can some one clear this up for me because i want to purchase on from my local napa but i want to make shure that its not a reverse rotation pump and that it actualy has an improved flow rate.... some one please chime in. on another note i have a borella exzhaust header off my renix 4.0 that i was planing on using on the HO head that i have for my stroker buld, now after recerch i am almost 100% positive that the exzhaust ports on all of the heads are in the same place it was the intake ports that moved up.... what do you think? please chime in and let me know what you know. :smart:

So after sleeping my dicouragement off i woke up to the brown truch droping the usa alloy axel seals off :banana: I has to go over to my moms this morning to sweat sauder some piping that had bursted last night but after that i went and purchased my melling Hi volume oil pump for the 4.7 I'm about to start bulding. i guess I'm about to jump head first in to getting that motor done. I think I'm going to pull the other motor out maby monday or tuesday so that i can prep and repaint the engine bay. Things i still need for the 4.7 goes as followes 99 intake hiseco tps adapter brown dog block brackets timing cover from a ho and a hrmonic ballancer an oil filter setup ho thermostat housing HO acessory brackets and various gaskets things i allready have 4.0 NV block w/258 12 weight crank and rods 93 ho head W/2.02 chevy valves and port job .60 over pistons iorn man motor mounts melling hi vol pump push rods and rocker asemblies I did get the alloy deals installed and i also bolted up the diff cover and instaled a RCX rock ring, I'm still wating on ball joints ball joints, unit bearings and brake rotors then i can all but finish with this axle... here's some pics of the progress and the knuckels in the backround are off the 96 axle, I found a set of acllipers that i had from a nother project that i will be using on this axle and the billet block off plate

So I got my billet aluminum block off plate for the axel disconect and i installed it but i havent gotten a picture of it yet. I am a little disscouraged today, I installed a new fuel pump today as the old one had talen a crap while it was sitting at the paint shop. It did start up but i am having some problems with it wanting to over heat while its idiling. :headpop: I have replaced just about every thing associated with the cooling syster, wich leads me to belive i either have a cracked head or a blown head gasket. What has me puzzles is that it will stay at a constant temp if i turn on the AC :wall: on a nother note i think I'm going to need a Hi Output altenator, I have a ford taurrus fan installed where the fan clutch was previously and when i turn it on low it is eating up a lot of power and if i put it on the hi side it all but drops down to to about 8 or 9 volts and almost kills the motor, and thats with the dual barrery switch turned on to suply the power from both batteries.... I was hoping to get this thing back on its own wheels and be able to wheel it atlease once before i got to finishing up the stroker but i guess I'm going to just start working on that sooner that i expected. I am almost to the point where I'm just going to give up on it for a while and go head first in to finishing the cj... :doh: O well i guess thats what i get for puting so much time in to it... and is any one eaven reading this thread? no one ever posts anything :huh???:

So for any one wanting to swap out to newer axle shafts here is a little bit that i have gotten done today. Napa has been closed fro the past two days because of the weather so instead of getting napa PN 11899 for the driverside and Napa pn 11800 for the passanger side I went to Orileys and picked up Part number 710068 for the driverside and then I went to our local bearing and seal place and knowing that the passanger side seal needed to be 1.188 ID, 2.004 OD and .25 thick, I picked up a SKF seal PN 11545 now that i had the seals It was time for me to pull the carrier and install the locker and seals. here's what i started with. It took a little bit of perswasion to get the carrier out with a pry bar but after a few miniutes it came out of its hole... I first started with installing the spartan locker in the carrier. I has to pull the ring gear off to get the cross pin out :wrench: and after asembling it i realised that i had one of the internal colars backwards so apart it came so could flip the collar around. here it is installed in the carrier. now I usea a 16" extention fed through the knuckel and a hammer to pop out the driverside seal notice how this side is machined to acept the seal Then I made a tool to press the seal into place out of allthread and some nuts washers and a plate that i used to press the new seal in to place... I forgot to get a picture of the instalation of the passanger side but i did it the same way that i did the drivers side. here is the carrier back in the housing. now I'm ready for my hub bearings, usa alloy axle seals and rotors to come in. Aparently i am going to have to swap over the knuckles from the 96 axel to the disco axel and dig up some brake callipers out of my jeep parts plile. Tomorow ill be off to the parts house to get some new ball joints to get this done... more to come

Eagle that antidisestablishmentarianism a realy helpful post.... I guess i will be off to the parts store tomorow to pick up some new ball joints so that i can transfer the corect nuckels over to the axel that I'm bulding..... and as far as the inner axel seals I do know that they need to be changed, (napa pn 11899 for the drivers side and PN 11800 for the passanger side ) I just got done installing the seals today and a spartan locker, but thanks for the heads up. Napa was closed the past two days because of the weather so I ended up using oriley PN 710068 and the passanger side i has to go to our local bearing and seal and the part number from them is SKF 11545 so i think ill be good. thanks guys for the instie...

ok so i am in the process of bulding a 4:10 disco axel for the front of my manche, but i have a few questions... First my disoc 30 is out of a 2.5xj and I also have a complete non disco axel out of a 96 xj.. my plan is to put the one peice shafts from the 96 in to the disco axle and install a spartan locker witch isent the problem, I have ordered 2nd gen unit bearings and slotted and drilled rotors for the 96 axle and I'm going to be installing that on my disconect axel. My question is can i retain the knuckels and brake calipers from the disco axel or do i need to swap the knuckels over from the 96 axel and aquire some new brake calipers? I havent ordered the brake pads yet and i wold live to know if any one has done this before.... Either way I allready have the knuckels and ive allready ordered the unit bearings and rotors but before i go any further i would love to hear some input. I have read some where on naxja that you have to match the rotors to the unit bearings but it wasent realy clear on the calliper issue i am facing. well let me know if you have any answers thanks..... Tim :typing:

So as I promased here are a few pics of the axels and what i have been able to get done in the freezing weather. here are the axels I started with, the non disco has 3.55 gears. I robbed the shafts out of it, I got the driverside seal today but napa was closed due to the 2" of snow we got :dunno: So I wasent able to get the seal i needed for the passanger side :headpop: so i have yet to pull the carrier to install the locker cuse I'm going to wait till i get that seal. I am still wating on the the usa alloy outer seals, the unit bearings, the billet aluminum block off plate, and the sloted and drilled rotors that i ordered. but i did get the axle cleaned up, I made guessets for the upper part of the C's, I also made some skid plates for the LCA mounts and built the truss, and last but not least Its painted tomorow I hope that i can pick up the seal that i need so that i can pull the carrier and install the locker, seals and shafts... then Its a wating game for the rest of my parts to come in. now I do have a question can I reuse my brake callipers on the origonal brackets with the 96 hub bearngs and rotors? or am i going to have to swap the knuckels to?....

So I started tearing in to both of my dana 30"s this afternoon and can i say for a rust free town, I belive both of the axles i got were from some where else that see's a little more precipitaiton. My unit bearings were a beotch to get off but i have ordered new ones so i dident mind bearing the $h!t out of them :D. I havegot them both down to just howsings and gear sets. Like i posted before I am Installing the newer 1 peice axel shafts in to my 4:10 disco axel and after a bunch of reserch this is what i have realised. to Install the new shafts i will need to pull the carrier to get a new seal in the passanger side of the diff housing, (napa PN 11800) to corectly seal the new shafts. This isent a big deal because i also realised that i will need to pull the carrier to get the ring gear off to install the spartan locker because of the thickness of the 4:10 ring gear so i guess ill kill two birds with one stone. I will also be installing a new deivers side seal as well while I'm in there (napa pn 11899). I have ordered a machined billet aluminum block off plate for the conversion :brows: as well as 91 up sloted brake rotors and unit bearings. I am hoping i can swap over the brake brackets from the 96 axel and run a set of calipers that i have had sitting around here for a while off a 92 xj :dunno: but if the brackets won't bolt to my disco knuckles then i guess I'm going to swap over knuckels as well but i buess some on can either chime in on this one or time will tell, either way its realy no big deal... I will be covering this more in detail for any on intrested in doing this swap as i havent found a whol lot of info on this, :smart: as soon as i get all of the peices in and load all of the pics in to photo bucket. I havent gotten around to that tonight so sorry ill try to get on that tomorow.... on a side note the mj is curently out side and being that it is going to be 15* and snowing i won't be geting to much else done except preping the axles and bulding the truss for it....

I may be intrested in bulding a set of the 1/4 pannels for members if its worth my time :brows: pm me and let me know what you think there worth and then we can go from there but at the molment i only have a short box so long box owners are still out, but if i can get my hands on a lnog box to borrow i could easly whip up a few sets for sale.....

So here's some pics of my 4.7 stroker in progress, mind you my jeep still has its origonal renix 4.0 wich at this point still runs prity well. but i am doing this comanche up so... its a 99 block thats bored .60 over and has a 258 crank and rods allready installed I'm still in the prosess of finding a 91-95 head and a 99 intake to go with it, as soon as i pick ip the head I'm going to have it machined to except the chevy 2.02 valves and ported matched and pollished as well as the intake, I also still need to get over to hisco and pick up the tps adapter for this swap but I'm almost there. I also allready have a borella header that I'm still on the fence if I'm going to use it or not brcause the PO of this header installed a second o2 Bung on the header and did a $#!ty job of it.... I may end up ordering a dynomax header but I'm allready in the manch over 5k and its still sitting on jack stands :shake: now :cheers: on to some progress I did get the RC cross member installed so thats half the battle geting the front end done. And i also got the RK track bar bracket installed....

Me to.... Ive allways wanted a mj ALLWAYS. I'm a true jeep guy and i have probably owned about 15 or 16 xj's not to mention the 5 cj's and 3 Yj ive had.....my dad also has a completly origonal, down to the paint and apolstry and its in great shape (stored in a barn for ever!!!! 56 willies truck. Its what i learned how to drive in.... hopefully it will be mine one day :chillin: But great news!!!! today after about cuting my finger off i did score a d 30 W/4:10 gears Its a disco front but thats ok because i have a 30 out of a 96 cherokee with the one peice axel shafts and bigger joints that I'm going to rob to make one bad @$$ axel out of. I also just ordered the alloy axel seals for it so I'm going to buld a small truss for it, install the alloy usa seals, the spartan locker, 1 peice axel shafts and box in the lca mounts and install this booger :banana: Ill get some pics of it tomorow. I have goten the interior almost completle done so ill have to get some pics of that for ever one. So let me jump over to photobucket and pull up some of the progress that i havent posted yet. :USAflag:

I am also in the prosess of restoring my cj7 from the ground up so ive veen trying to cram all that i can in to both of these projects while I'm back at home.... :ack: Ive been realy bussy on both, I have managed to get the 97 front clip on the jeep and the winch bumper and winch mounted and had the truck repainted black, the paints not done yet, Its going to be 3 tone with silver on the botom and a red stripe down the side. Ill get to the rest of the paint when i get it road worthy. It looks a little dirty in the pics, Its crazy because it never snows here in El Paso but the day i picked it up from the paint shot it was snowing prity good and it got all dirty on the trailor ride home....

I have made good friends with the brown truck driver latly :cheers: ... here's some goodies for you guys to feast your eves on... I have the RC long arm upgrade, RC 9000 schocks, RC drop pitman arm, Rugged rige cross over stering with energy suspention dust boots, Rock krawler HD track bar, red SS extended brake lines, 2 sets of front coils one is rustys 8.5 inch coils and the red ones are skyjacker 7" soft ride coils, OME BPE eliminators from an old set of shocks i had, borrella header (I'm also in the prossess of bulding a 4.7l stroker but ill get in to more detail on that later), hub centric wheel spacers for the 8.8 Thing that i have ordered but still not recived yet are dimond cut head lights and smoke turn signals, and iorn man HD motormounts.

Its been a little crazy for me latly but i guess i better update this to where I'm at before it dies for good.... I'm also to lazy to type some time after wrenching all day. I have finaly goten the Time bomb 35 swaped out for a 8.8 with 4:10s that i got for a hundred dollars out of our local pick and pull. I took off the bed to swap the axel a little easer and while i had it off i striped the rear frame and repainted it with undercoating I have allso swaped out the PV from a ZJ with disks to get the most out of my rear brakes. ( I eliminated the stupid rear brake valve while i was at it... :wrench: It has new brakes including rotors, pads and e-brake pads.... I also sprong it over in anticipation for the final lift.... Ive been colecting parts since my last post whtch was a while ago and i belive i have almost every thing except for a front axel w/4:10 gears but ironicly i allready have my spartan locker.... :dunno:

any one? :???: aw come on mj gods... i know your here some where....

Any one...

You might have gotten away with adapting your renix intake to the ho head but JUST an FYI the intake ports DO NOT match up corectly and you are NOT geting the most out of the engine and sooner or later you will blow an intake gasket... Ask me how I know :no: Your best bet is to take the head from the renix and mount it on to the ho block and then mount your intake and exzhaust manifolds up.... with the renix intake on a ho block your realy killing about 25 horses.... but its up to you... yes it will work, but your not getting the most out of it so why would you waste your time and have to do it agian when the gasket blows? Just puting my 2cence in

I am having problems with a fuel pump that i just installed in my 88 comanche 4.o now my question is if i disconnect the plug from the fuel pump what kind of voltage should i be seeing feeding the fuel pump. After testing it with volt meter i am only seeing 6 1/2 volts to the pump is this correct? I am going to replace the relay tomorrow and check the ballast on the fender but can some one give me a heads up to what the voltage should be? :???: