Prestin_xj

I did try tip #8, and #5, but I’m really not sure if I did it correctly. The voltmeter wasn’t really giving me numbers. I can’t remember what it was saying. I wanna say it was saying “0L” or something like that. (I’m not very handy when it comes to a voltmeter yet lol). I do know I had it set to ohm’s though.

Gotcha. I’ll check that in the am.

I verified that I have the wires in the correct spot.. also, I drove it around for close to two hours after doing the plugs, wires, rotor and distributer with no issues at all. I just had the exhaust done on it today, that was actually my “destination” in the post. New muffler with no cat.

HELP!! Sorry for the long post. Supposed to take this thing to the beach this weekend, so I need to get it fixed. 90’, 4.0, aw4. Sputters on acceleration. Yesterday I changed the plugs, wires, distributer cap, and rotor just as maintenance. Drove it around for two hours or so afterwards with no issues whatsoever. I went on an hour long drive today. On the way there I noticed that going up hills it would feel like it didn’t have the power it should. Would give it more gas to downshift, but downshifting wouldn’t give it any more power to get up the hills. I just figured the trans fluid was low. Made it to the destination. Checked fluid, it was fine. Left the destination three hours later to go back home, and I noticed it was having the same power issue but as the drive got longer, it got worse getting up to speed. About 30 mins in it felt like it had no power even on flat road. It started sputtering some on take off, exhaust popping. It ended up starting to stall when I stopped at stop signs/lights etc. Got so bad, I had to put the petal to the floor to go just 45mph/ish, then just 35ish, then just 20ish. Barely made it back to the house. I had the pedal to the floor the last 20 mins of the drive. Pedal to the floor, the exhaust would be popping and it just didn’t want to accelerate. I figured it was the fuel pressure. This afternoon I checked the map vacuum line, sprayed the main grounds on the block/valve cover gasket with brake cleaner since they were covered in oil. The fuel pressure is 30psi at idle, 39 when vacuum is unhooked. I hooked up a map sensor out of my other Comanche, replaced cps, with no solution. Replaced the injectors with brand new 4 hole injectors from ksuspension out of my other Comanche. The Jeep was cooled off by this point, and when I took it down the road that seemed to fix the issue until I finally came up on a stop sign then it started sputtering on take off again when it started to get warmed up. I had the parts store order a TPS and O2 sensor that will be here at 7:30 in the morning. Other than that, any ideas? Thanks! Edit: The last of those things I did was spray the grounds with brake cleaner. Went to a gas station 5 mins away and it stalled when leaving the gas station. Got back to the house, let it sit for about an hour and took it for another drive just for the heck of it. Drove it for about 15 minutes with no issues at all, but I feel like the problem may come back. Fuel pump/strainer maybe? Some guys on Facebook said the fuel may be boiling in the fuel rail? What would cause that?

I wondered that.. I also wonder if the brown plug that goes on the back of the headlight switch could be backwards? Not sure where to find a diagram showing that. Tomorrow, I’ll look and see if my cluster is plugged in like the picture you attached 🤔

@OldSch88L it’s an mj dash. Kept all of my original electrical and cluster etc. just swapped the dash to put in a black one

@cruiser54 I had done some researching on these forums and had saw you recommended that to someone else. So I figured I’d try it, unfortunately it gave no positive results :/ I’m stumped 😣

This is all I have there.. but, this has never happened before until I swapped the dash. I’m thinking it’s something under the dash.

HELP!! In the process of putting my dash back in my 88’ mj. I completely gutted the interior to swap in a different dash and do the heater core. Must’ve forgot some wiring somewhere when putting the dash back in but I have no idea where. Trying to charge the battery, and when the tender is turned on this is what happens when I turn the key on and off. When the key is off, the ac compressor clicks. When the key is on the compressor stops clicking and the fuel light/cluster gauges pulse along with the seatbelt light and radio screen. And one of the circular relays under the dash starts clicking. Gauge cluster and climate control lights also won’t come on. Also does different stuff when I have the headlight switch pulled out. I’m thinking some kind of ground but like I said I’m lost. Everything seems to be plugged back in… Any ideas?? 😔

@Pete M yes! Looks like a 36 tooth should be close enough. Just don’t know if I need a short or long one

Speedo help. The truck will have 37’s soon. Axles have 4.56 gears. What Speedo gear do I need to order for the tcase to keep the speed right? Buying the correct gear will keep the odometer accurate also, correct? Also don’t know if I need the short or long gear. Just did the 2wd ba10 to 4wd ax15 from a 96’ xj. The Speedo parts that go into the trans/tcase are different between the 2wd and 4wd transmissions. I won’t be able to use the cable driven Speedo off of my 2wd trans (it’s much bigger) so I’m going to take the Speedo mechanism off of my 87’ 4wd mj tcase.

Hey guys! My first post here. I have a 88’ Comanche 4.0, manual, 2wd. I’m about to attempt the ax15 swap. I have an external slave ax15 4x4 trans out of a 96 XJ. What is EVERYTHING I need to do this swap? I’ve heard about some CJ v8 pilot bushing, but not sure which one I need. I have a new clutch to go in the trans and I will probably get the flywheel resurfaced because why not. Is there anything else I need to do this swap? I’d just like to order everything I need now that way I don’t tear it apart and figure out there’s something else I need then have to wait on that part to come in the mail. Thanks in advance!