Caleb S
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Everything posted by Caleb S
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It does turn over freely. I have power to the starter I just tested it and the battery both are good. It seems like something to do with the key ignition but I’m not sure where to go from there. Not really trying to replace a bunch of parts that aren’t necessarily the problem.
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United StatesManufacturerJeep CorporationVehicle TypeTruckEngine4.0L, I-6, MPIPowertrain4-speed automatic, column gear shift, 2 W/DBody TypeJeep Comanche, 2-W/D Pickup, 6.0 foot bed, 113 inch wheel baseGross Vehicle WeightComanche Pioneer = 4001 - 5000 lbs / J-20 Truck = 5001 - 6000 lbsAssembly PlantToledo, Ohio, USAModel Year1987
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United StatesManufacturerJeep CorporationVehicle TypeTruckEngine2.46L, 4 Cyl, TBIPowertrain4-speed manual, floor gear shift, 2 W/DBody TypeJeep Comanche, 2-W/D Pickup, 6.0 foot bed, 113 inch wheel baseGross Vehicle WeightComanche Pioneer = 4001 - 5000 lbs / J-20 Truck = 5001 - 6000 lbsAssembly PlantToledo, Ohio, USAModel Year1988 VIA VIN DECODER
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So when I bought this truck I was told it needed a new starter and fuel pump. Well yesterday I got both pulled and I installed the new starter and went to bump it over and just a single click. Brand new starter but the battery however is an older battery. I re charged it overnight very slowly and I’m wondering if that could be the issue. But I thought usually the single click indicated it was a starter. Also when I checked the fuse block the starter fuse was missing so I replaced it, but still nothing. I guess I’m gonna go get the battery tested after work today.
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Yeah probably gonna do the inside in some rust preventative flat black and do some Kilmat throughout. The outside I’m gonna try and get back to factory if possible.
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Okay thanks. I’m gonna see if I can’t find some once this baby is a driver.
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88 SWB I don’t know much about it stock because it’s had a 97+ swap done to it before it came to me. Currently in Anderson SC I’m doing the last little bit of the swap and I plan on trying to return it to factory paint. it appears it was a beige color underneath the white and primer bed.
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1987 SWB 2WD Dana 30 front Dana 35 rear 4.0 IL 6 with AW4 & NP231 Driver Side door sticker is gone, but dealer sticker says Jasper GA Currently in Anderson SC Awaiting a TDI swap in my shop.
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Here’s my vin
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That silver is what the PO did in the engine bay. I guess while he was swapping the new driveline over.
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It says CB 33 6YT
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Welllll. Not a great day but that’s how it goes. Pulled the bad starter and the fuel tank. Plan was to drill the top of the tank and install a Dakota sending unit. Found a lot of rust. So I had to order a non slosh tank. Also even went and found my old tank from my TDI swapped mj and found it with no rust, but it had a slosh pan too.
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Does anybody know where to get that factory tan color? I can see it underneath the white of the cab and then obviously the bed.
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Picked up a mostly finished 97+ swapped 88 SWB. Plan is finish the swap get it driving, paint it, then 3 inch lift, flat bed, 33” tires. Need a nice daily capable of working and carrying my tools.
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Over the 4th I cut out the front and plated the steering box and then the opposite with 3/16 plate and 1x2” bar stock. Think I’ll do another piece of angel iron over it to fill in the gap so it looks factory. Did this because I’ll eventually have an inter cooler in the way. Plus I need that steering nice and tight. Also have an XJ now. Got it to drive around until the Mj is done but I might steal the hydro assist and winch off of it and part out the rest. Or sell whole.
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This wasn’t on the tailgate but it’s kinda neat.
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Got some work done over leave. Sliders done, frame stiffeners painted with steel it and tacked in, all old brackets chopped off. Half doors trimmed to fit, coil bucket mounts removed to put in hoops. Once the frame stiffeners all get fully welded up I’ll move to getting the link mounts burned in and get a rolling chassis.
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Rear 4 link brackets from ARTEC INDUSTRIES are burnt in. Hoping to have a complete roller by the end of June
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Last couple of weeks I’ve been working on burning in the truss on the rear axle. Then started to weld the sliders to the body. Not very easy. Had to grind away my first attempt. Kept burning through.
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I used IRO frame stiffeners for the front and middle, modified the middle of the Comanche unibody to make it fit. The rear I used some 3/16 and just cut it out with a cut off wheel to match the shape
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Sliders. Got to do some tweaking on things when I get a chance.
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TDI’s are pretty damn small. Got it tore down and on the stand ready to be rebuilt.
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Notched “frame” for hoops and coilover clearance. Made brackets for rear control arm mounts. Also made my own frame stiffeners and tacked then in place.
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Not yet.