abugarcias

My engine has been running rough and I've had some loss of power when I accelerate. I tested the pressure on all cylinders and here are the results: 1 - 60 2 - 90 3 - 75 4 - 85 5 - 80 6 - 90 What could this indicate? Timing chain?

I think I might have a head gasket issue. I got the gauge to check the compression but I've never done this before. I won't have anyone to help me do it, can I actuate the starter solenoid by running a wire to it from the + battery? If I do that, do I need to disable the fuel pump? If so, where is the relay or fuse located? Do I need to ground the center wire going to the distributor when I remove it if I'm just actuating the starter? I'm going to remove all the plugs at one time and test cylinder to cylinder. Any tips appreciated, like I said this is my first time doing it I don't want to mess up my ignition system or start a fire. Thanks.

Any cherokee 97-01 would work. The sport is just the trim level. I believe it came in SE, Sport, Classic and Limited. I used to have the classic and it was a nice jeep.

In cleaning everything off I noticed that the cable running from the battery to the starter was almost severed in half about 3-4" away from the starter end. I am going to replace that, but still replace the starter and solenoid since they are so old and I don't want to get stranded anywhere. I hope this will fix the problem.

I let my MJ sit all winter and now it won't start. When I turn the key the engine turns over slowly and I hear a few clicks then nothing. I checked the battery and it is still good, as well as trying to jump start it. It's weird though that the battery gauge on my dash doesn't register anything when they key is in the on position. I'm inclined to think this is the solenoid. I'm going to the junk yard tomorrow and I'll probably just replace both since the starter is really old, if not the original. Could a fuel pump problem cause this? I suspect my fuel pump is going out as well since it hesitated a lot before it died this winter. I don't know if that's related or not. Thanks for the help,

Same thing happened to me a few weeks ago in the snow, I know it had something to do with the e-brake cable. After realizing they were seized I reapplied the e-brake then disengaged it and everything loosened up then.

Does anyone know what kind of rear bumper that is and how much modding is necessary to make it fit?

Ever since I had my MJ (almost a year, it was VERY neglected before I got it) I've had weird idling / performance problems. I'll try to describe them. In the summer / fall (normal temps) when I started it up the engine would immediately die after running for a few seconds. I would start it up again and it would then run but idle high at about 1100-1200. When I drove it I would notice occasionally the engine would start to sputter and RPMs would drop to like 0 like it was being choked out, even with the accelerator all the way to the floor. This almost always happened right after I started it up, if I had been driving for a while I don't recall it ever happening (trips greater than 30 minutes). When I would stop for lights or stop signs the engine would act like it was choking out and drop RPMs and I would have to press down on the accelerator to keep the RPMs up to keep it from dying (not every time though it was very intermittent and only seemed to happen right after I started driving it). It has cut out on me before and it would start right back up and then be pretty normal (except for high idle around 1100). Now that it's winter the weirdest thing happened. I hadn't started it in about a month and went outside thinking I will have to start it a few times before the engine wouldn't quit. But to my surprise it started right up and idled normally at around 400 (probably a bit low?) and DIDN'T cut out. BUT once I drove it and warmed the engine up to operating temp, when I would come to a stop the same exact thing would happen, it would sputter and RPMs drop and almost die (would have to keep my foot on the gas to keep it from choking). Once I park it and keep my foot on the gas to get the RPMs up after 10-15 seconds it would idle at 1100 again and be fine. I have replaced all vacuum lines, cleaned the IAC, checked for vacuum leaks, cleaned fuel tank and intake with seafoam, and replaced fuel filter. I'm thinking this might be a fuel delivery problem since the truck sat for almost 2 years before I got it, I'm sure there's a bunch of crap in the tank maybe plugging up the lines? Fuel pump? I don't know anyone who has a fuel pressure gauge to check to see if it's getting fuel and don't really want to spend $40 just to use one time. Any ideas or help would be great. Thanks. 88MJ, 4.0L, peugot manual tranny, stock engine parts, 4WD

My uncle gave me his old 88 Comanche back in April and I've been slowly repairing things getting it road worthy. It sat for about 2 years before I got it so there were a ton of things that went bad on it once I started it up and driving it. Well, I finally got everything to the point where it was drivable and semi-reliable so I decided to test her out. Went on a 250 mile round trip to OBX to take her 4-wheeling in the sand. She did great, no issues whatsoever except for engine temps creeping up in stop and go traffic (we went on Saturday, when everyone is coming and going for their vacation week so traffic was heavy). I installed an auxiliary electric fan (no AC didn't come with one) today which fixes the overheating issues at low speeds and I'm taking her back down to OBX friday to push her a little bit harder in the sand and go exploring more. Here are some pics from this past weekend: PS - I didn't catch ANYTHING, but my buddy who was down there at the same time (didn't know it at the time) caught a 5ft shark!

Thanks Don this is exactly what I needed, did the trick perfectly. Now I won't overheat in stop and go traffic, crawling, and idling.

I'm installing an aux electric fan (never had one) and need a wire that is hot only when the ignition is on to control the relay which turns the fan on when it gets to a certain temp. What is a good wire to tap into under the hood for this, preferably near the battery and fuses? Detailed description of where it is would be great, pics would be awesome! Thanks.

D'oh. You guys are right I was mistaking those two things. This is my first M/T jeep and I figured since it said DOT3 Brake fluid on the cap that that was the reservoir for the brakes. Now that I filled up the true reservoir and bled it out all is good. Thanks for the help.

I had to replace my brake hoses a few weeks ago on the front and at the time bled them and the pedal felt decent. Since then the pedal has gotten more spongy to almost no resistance. I tried to bleed the brakes again and was getting nothing out at the calipers. The reservoir was full of fluid to the max. I couldn't figure out what was going on so I opened up the reservoir that sits on top of the master cylinder and the bigger tank on the rear was bone dry. I refilled that with fluid and bled some more with great results, however got to a point again when nothing was coming out of the calipers, and most puzzling of all the brake fluid in the plastic reservoir hadn't moved at all! I'm assuming it's plugged up somewhere and the rear tank in the master cylinder is empty again (since it didn't fill with fluid from the reservoir). What is the best way to get it unplugged and is there a common area that does get plugged up or a common procedure for this? Thanks.

Did you clean out or replace the vacuum lines? What about cleaning out the CCV lines that go into the valve cover? You can even take the valve cover off and clean out the gunk from inside that may be plugging one of the lines.

I used to have an 05 WK with the 4.7. The only reason I got the V8 was because you can't get the 4WD transfer case that has low range on the V6. It's a decent engine, but as mentioned before it's not a truck or an SUV engine. Drinks gas and not that much performance to show for it. Honestly if I had to do it again I would have gotten a WJ with the I-6 and selec trac.

I just picked up a CCV hose that came with a grommet from Advance for $8.

Did you look at the fuses under the driver's kick panel mounted on the firewall? Look at the turn/backup fuse (20 amp) and the hazard/stop fuse (15 amp). Take them out to inspect because I know on mine they looked ok but when I took them out they were corroded as all get out. Do your instrument cluster lights work?

I used car-part.com to search and find some at a junkyard near me. I only needed one but got it for $25. http://car-part.com/index.htm

That looks amazing. Does everything bolt right up or does it take some fabbing / modding? And what type of brackets are those for your D-rings that I'm assuming you use for recovery? Do you have some sort of black trim on your tail lights?

Yes that is definitely in the works for the near future.

Well everything is in and she runs good. I don't have a temp gauge but so far so good, no temp light coming on. Thanks guys for all the help. As a post script I might pickup a heater control valve the next time I'm at a junkyard. I'm not sure if it was my imagination but the cab was unusually warm...figure can't go wrong for a few bucks next time I'm there, worth a shot.

Are you bleeding them alone or do you have someone to help you? If you are bleeding them alone what is your procedure? I use a kit from the auto store for about $5 it is basically tubing that goes over the bleeder that is connected to a bottle with a magnet on it you put higher than the valve. You then open the valve, pump the brakes a few times until the tubing fills up with fluid and you don't notice air bubbles anymore (air rises in the tubing to the bottle). You then close the bleeder before disconnecting the tubing from the bleeder. It works great when you have to do it alone.

Did you check the wheels / tires for debris?

So I took her out for a spin tonight, drove around for about 20 minutes and everything seems ok. No overheating issues (only have the idiot light, not the gauge), and once the hood is closed, you can't tell the engine is smoking a little. Because there are no apparent true overheating issues, would I be safe to assume this is in fact blowby?

So I changed the oil and it looked ok, no milky or white stuff in it. Started her up and looked for bubbles in the radiator cap, there were none. It did however start smoking about 5 minutes into it and seemed once again like it was getting really hot. I'm going to take it for a test drive tonight not too far from home and see what happens. How much smoke is "normal" for blowby?