Dickinson County Comanche

just just tried a new IAC, it opened up but wouldn’t idle back down again. Something is going wrong other than the IAC. What controls the IAC?

My IAC isn’t closing all the way, what would cause that? TB is adjusted correctly and is closing all the way.

It lowered by about 100-50rpm

I am not running a knock sensor as of now, however I have not noticed any pinging. I’ve heard that if it’s tuned well enough and that you run good gas, it’ll work fine without. I do have one on order though.

Hello all, I’m still trying to deal with this dang high idle. I have done cruiser’s tips 1,3,5, scoured for vaccum leaks (all vacuum lines come back ok, as does the intake with all bolts tightened, and the throttle body, spray with brake clean came back just fine, no fluctuations in the idle.) cleaned the TB and even used a new one just to see if mine was faulty, no difference. If I pull the EGR valve out, it will stumble like normal, and when I release it will idle perfect, but if I touch the gas again, it will idle up. Even if left idling, it will not idle down after time. It also seems to have a slightly rich mixture, I did put the Bosch 710 injectors in which seemed to bump up power but not effect mixture any. If I get on then it will backfire, unless it is cold, it idles perfectly fine cold and will not backfire. I did relocate the coolant temp sensor to the thermostat housing, however I’ve tried different thermostats for coolant temp and it hasn’t changed anything. Good fuel pressure, good grounds, and good sensors. TPS is adjusted within spec, and multiple MAP, IAC, and TPS have been interchanged with no luck. Could it possibly be an O2 sensor?

I went out with a hammer and tapped the frame and it’s surprising solid. Maybe I’ll save it yet. It’ll need a powertrain swap.

I’d most likely have to replace every inch of steel in the frame. I have no clue how bad the rust is within the frame rails but judging by the holes it’s not great. + every brake line in the rear. Every time it seems I patch them it leaks somewhere else.

I’ll look at taking the mirror off and measuring it this weekend. The truck has the exterior blockoffs, but not the interior ones, I already took those after I replaced my remote mirrors with manual ones.

I can check them. It sat out in the sun for a while so idk if if they’re strong enough for them to stay together while I take them off.

Unfortunately, after much consideration, this truck will end up at a scrapyard. The frame is rotting from the inside out and it’s no longer safe for highway use. The 2.8 is knocking hard and the drivers door quite literally rusted off. I will save any non-powertrain parts for anyone if interested. I am saving the tailgate and taillights personally though.

Also, I have since dropped the notion of doing the door-less mod. I ended up getting a nice 1999 TJ back in December so it can fill my “doors off” quota

It’s been a while, and I’ve done quite a bit. Back when the previous owner had it, the wind caught the drivers door and damaged the upper door hinge. It had been fixed but improperly and began to separate again. I took it to a body shop and got the door hinge recorrected. I had previously installed a CB radio antenna and finally installed a CB radio. I also had modified the reverse light wiring to work properly with the AX-15 transmission. I managed to also acquire a set of Bosch fuel injectors. They’re not the nice Volvo ones, but they made a huge difference in power and overall performance. I also fixed some rat damage that had occurred when the truck had been parked, specially the 4x4 selector quadrant light and the ground strap on the seat belt buzzer sensor.

Maybe, I’m still just a bit confused about the rattle going away when I push on the transmission/transfer case. Maybe a bad input bearing on the transfer case too?

Hey all, I have this rattle in my transmission and it’s irritating me. I don’t understand for the life of me what it is. It started about 2 weeks after I swapped power trains in my truck. It rattles upon the clutch being released and rattles while the engine is idling. I can make the rattle go away by simply pushing on the transmission. I put brand new mounts and it is tight so that is not the issue. The video makes it much more pronounced than it actually is, but it’s like a full-on rattle. Bellhousing bolts are tight, the mounts are tight. I’m at a loss IMG_7494.MOV IMG_7494.MOV

I gave it a single pump this morning and it fired right back up! Man this thing runs good.

1987 Jeep Comanche 2.8L, A904, NP207?, D35, D30? Sticker was worn off N/C Kansas Currently being fixed up, to become a rock crawler. Special Features: chrome tailgate latch, cruise, power windows/door locks, cargo light. (Absolutely loaded) Owned by a friend of mine.

So, I never expected it to ever come to this. As some backstory, this truck sat outside, with the hood up, weeds growing through it since ~2009 the 2.8 was stuck solid. I couldn’t turn it even with a long breaker bar and now it runs. And pretty decent at that even on 12 year old gas. Sadly I don’t have any pictures of it after I drove it. It’s not happy trying to move, which I think is a combination of low trans fluid and a stuck parking brake. So have a picture of when I stole the receiver hitch off of it. I did take the topper off, so it anyone wants a long bed Lear topper, please let me know. FullSizeRender.mov

I checked them again after a drive and they all seemed good and tight, so hopefully no more will be lost.

Added fog lights, as well as a whole new set of lug nuts. I keep losing them going down the road. Less than 2,000 miles and I’ve lost 3 or 4 now. Hopefully nicer new ones will help. I also robbed a friends old front clip off his Jeep of the remaining chrome front trim pieces I needed.

Hey, it works does it not? lol. I’m surprised how flimsy the factory bumpers really are. I barely even hit the tree and it bent it a ton.

I did some bumper “mods” this weekend. I backed into a tree to straighten out the bumper, got the stuck ball off of the bumper, and installed a Draw-Tite receiver hitch. Fancy stuff.

Also have you tried flushing the core? My heat didn’t use to work but I flushed a ton of junk out and now it works great.

I think it should work. Later heater cores will have a different size fitting than the one that you have has. I think all the heater cores from 84-96 were the same minus the fitting sizes