nknapp16

What's up guys, anyone know what sleeve/adapter/flange I need to make this exhaust work. I needed a new front pipe, old one has a hole. It has a 4 bolt flange where it connects to catalytic converter, the cat I have doesnt have that flange its straight 2.5 pipe. So just looking for a 4 bolt adapter or another idea. Thanks

So could I just remove the sending unit and put in the oil sensor for the gauge I bought? Or does the sending unit need to be connected? I'll work on the sig. It's a 90 big ton 4.0 aw4

And that warning light never came on when I only had 13 psi oil pressure bc of the oil filter.

I ordered a Tee adapter to connect the gauge to the oil sending unit. My gauge cluster does not give pressure, just the warning oil light.

Its has ports for oil gauge. Another member recommended, said it was easy way. It is the standard metric, the problem is the hose from the engine does not slide through that gold piece. Not a big deal, ill probably send it back and just get a Tee adapter.

Anyone install one? I have the correct size 20mmx1.5 but the tube from the engine that slides into the oil filter does not fit through the sleeve that they provided(gold hardware in photo). Not sure if I can change that tube, or if they make a different sleeve. Already ordered a Sending unit Tee, but thought I'd ask.

Something worse, some no name, never seen before. Prior owner installed

Sorry didnt mean sending unit, meant pump. 14 psi is w gauge when starting up, then slowly psi goes down to 10 psi. Did nothing when revving the engine.

90 Manche just passed inspection , but Oil pressure when starting is at 14 psi, then drops, even while revving. Any ideas? Engine sounds good, no bad noises, yet. Hoping its just a bad oil sending unit.

I usually do my own work, but currently no driveway, only street parking, so need it done asap. From what I gathered online, 150-250 new seals installed, not sure if thats 1 side or both. Shop said hed have to look first. Shop that looked at brakes said the drums and pads look good, but they deff need to be bled, pedal goes to the floor. Everything else works, lights horn, wheels are good.

I guess I'm more asking, should I have both sides done or just the side that's leaking?

here's some photos...

Hey guys new to the forum, just picked up a 1990 MJ w big ton package. Overall in pretty good shape, body has some rust spots, frame is rust free. Deff needs some TLC. Currently trying to get it inspected, i thought it just needed brakes, but this morning the shop i dropped it at said it needs rear axle seals, leaking at the back right hub. I'm going to drop it off at a shop tm that does the work. My question is, is there anything else I should have done while they have the diff open?(i would like to run 33's at some pt, but no rush) to change the seals, I'm guessing theyll do inner and out? any info is much appreciated, thanks

can i use the flare tool from autozone? the brake lines i bought that fit the WJ are..bubble flared?

i was looking to order the lines off the master cylinder.....any idea on part number, can't find them anywhere.