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Well, put the ad up on kijiji, within hours had about half dozen interested people, ended up selling the comanche for $500. I found out my sister has been praying (for how long I don't know) that my comanche get terminated. The last few years has been a constant battle keeping the comanche going, soon as I fix one thing something else goes wrong. Just didn't stop. Bought a 2001 f150 with 200k on it for 2 grand. We'll see how this turns out. s Thanks everybody for all the help and advice over the years, it's been quite the ride. Cheers!

Here's the latest, Sep 2 2021, the replaced engine broke, removed no. 1 cyl bent push rods, got'er up for sale (kijijii Calgary) for $600, if no sale, last drive is to pick n pull. After owning this truck for 31 years, kind of hard to see it go. 552808 kms

Got'er back together, redid all the valves, got'er running good, looking once again like a keeper. Next project is painting it probably dark grey.

Fantastic, good info, thanks. Got'er apart, got the head off, had to hammer the intake valve out. Looks like the valve head is slightly off square to the stem. So I guess burnt exhaust was getting by causing the build up of carbon which eventually seized the valve. Hopefully I can get a new valve and slap it all back together. Thanks again for all your help, really appreciate it.

Thanks for the offer, going to see if I can fix mine. Started taking it apart, those bolts under the intake/exhaust were fun. Next up is the head bolts, hopefully I'll get the low down after I get'er apart. Was chatting with a mechanic at work, he suggested I pull the plug fill the cylinder with rope, move the piston up to compress the rope against the valves, take the spring off with a hammer or compress the spring somehow to get the keeper off and try some kind of killer carbon eater stuff to release the valve. I decided just to take the head off. Is there a way to determine which electrical connector for the injectors goes where? I think 5 and 6 might of been switched around when I was dealing with the injectors a while back. We're getting about 3 or 4 inches of snow on monday so that'll put the brakes on things for a while. Chow for now.

Awesome, thanks.

I checked pick n pull, all they have is a 97 Cherokee, not sure if it has a 4.0 or if it does it will fit on my engine. Hopefully they get an older 4.0 in sometime soon. Thanks for the info, this job is going to take a while.

Yep, bent another push rod. The intake valve looks a bit lower on number one cylinder, there is lots of play on the intake rocker when torque down. Turned the engine over without the rockers on intake and exhaust push rods both went up and down. I'm thinking the intake value is stuck somehow. Looks like the head has to come off to get at the intake valve. Yuck.

Found the problem, hopefully just a bent push rod. Off to pick n pull, thanks again for the input, much appreciated.

Update! Swapped a relay with one beside it, turned the ign. on, heard the faint humming noise and it started. Yah, however it runs real rough and it won't idle, just sputters and dies. Now I just have to figure out why it's missing one or more cylinders. Moved the tbs around to no avail, thinking maybe wire harness went bad after removing plugs. Or maybe the used injectors I put in a little while ago when it wasn't working that good. The quest continues..... After doodling with it , got it idling real rough, has a bad metal on metal knock at the front of the engine, might be piston slap or something else. I think she's done.

Once the snow clears up, I'll crawl under the jeep and start poking around the fuel pump. Might get lucky.

Really appreciate the feed back, tried ballast resistor check, no go. Just out of curiousity, is that connector of consequence?

When you turn the ignition on you can hear a faint humming noise and then a click, does anyone know what part that is. Whatever that is, it isn't doing it anymore and the jeep won't start save a one or two second sputter from the engine. So far I have, tried a different ECU, checked for voltage on cps, map, tps (and adjustment), checked grd wire behind tail light, got 30 plus psi on fuel rail, got spark on number one cylinder, bypassed resistor by air cleaner, filed the tips on spark plugs, took off ignition coil cleaned contacts, found a hot wire not attached to solenoid (no change), cleaned and tightened battery terminals, undid the big electrical connector and clean it with electrical contact cleaner, scratched my head more than once and wondered about the fuel pump. Bought the jeep in 1990, maybe it's time to say bye bye.

Thanks guys for the info, ECU might still be learning, the ground cleaning didn't change the problem. Bought a crown vic x cop car with cop tires at a auction last Sat, so it's getting priority.

Thanks guys, that did the trick. However now that it turns over, it starts for couple seconds then dies. Took about 12 tries and little pedal action to keep the engine going. My guess it's something to do with the computer stuff.

Ok will do, I did clean all the wires on the solenoid and I did remove and attach the positive terminal. Will do the negative one. Thanks

Tried to start it, ignition on, radio, cb starts up, turn ignition to start engine. hear a click in the engine bay, then nothing. No radio no power. Try to start it again, nothing. Poked under hood, after a few minutes, turn on ignition, radio and stuff start up, hit the starter, click, nothing no power. Charged the battery for an hour, same routine. I don't know.....

Yes, I did it myself. I framed up a wooden......frame with 2 x 4's and 1 x 4's. Bought the cloth at Hahn's military surplus in Vegas. Took two 3 yard pieces sewed them together to get the necessary width used a length of para cord at each end tied it off under the truck. On each side has 5 tie downs to hold in place. Thinned the paint down a bit to help it along. The truck was black before so took 3 coats to make look half decent. Bought some red reflective tape 3/4" wide and cut it down to about a 1/8", the fluorescent yellow was painted on by hand. Et voila!

Aug 2017 The latest paint job. Tremclad semi gloss white, painted with roller, made a tarp from camo cloth, coated with a clear polyeurathane and couple of pin stripes, red and yellow.

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I decided to tow it to a shop and get them to look at it. So $718 later they got it going. Parts they replaced were, 1 pcv emissions hose, 6 NGK spark plugs, 1 serpintine belt idler pully, 1 serpintine belt and 2 litres of antifreeze. He said the belt tensioner was siezed, I guess I didn't put it on properly causing the serpintine belt to overheat. So I gets'er home and next day the instrument gauges aren't working including the tach. So I dicked around with that for a while, screw it. I decided to fill the tank and count the k's for the next fill up. Went to the gas station filled it up, started it up and voila, gauges and tach are working, except the speedo is bouncing around a bit. Good enough for me. The engine I got has 302,000 k's on it, couple of cylinders have a compression of 60 and 65. Runs OK, should last me for a decade I figure. :wrench: Engine fixed 20 July 2015

My first engine swap, not looking forward to doing that again. Couldn't find out why the engine wouldn't start. I decided to tow it to a shop and get them to look at it. So $718 later they got it going. Parts they replaced were, 1 pcv emissions hose, 6 NGK spark plugs, 1 serpintine belt idler pully, 1 serpintine belt and 2 litres of antifreeze. He said the belt tensioner was siezed, I guess I didn't put it on properly causing the serpintine belt to overheat. So I gets'er home and next day the instrument gauges aren't working including the tach. So I dicked around with that for a while, screw it. I decided to fill the tank and count the k's for the next fill up. Went to the gas station filled it up, started it up and voila, gauges and tach are working, except the speedo is bouncing around a bit. Good enough for me. The engine I got has 302,000 k's on it, couple of cylinders have a compression of 60 and 65. Runs OK, should last me for a decade I figure. :wrench:

I'm at work now, can't recall the exact procedure but didn't get any readings. I have to recheck the web page I was looking at. Would pulling the fuel rail off and cranking it over be a scary idea?

After much ado, appears to be no power to the injectors. Sync generator tests at dizzy is good, cranks no start 0 ohms from blue and grey wire at dizzy connector to ecu connector pins 16 and 5, cranks no start Put a used ecu in, cranks no start Put a used starter relay in cranks no start Put a new cps in, cranks no start Checked nearly all sensors, o2 sensor was a bit off, cranks no start Fuel pressure test, 31 psi, cranks no start Spark plug wire sparks, cranks no start Replaced engine ground and 4 other smaller ground wires with new soldered connectors, cranks no start Checked relays save last test using power on relay, changed relays, cranks no start Checked fusible links, cranks no start Injectors all have ohms resistance, cranks no start I'm thinking of going to pick and pull, rip out a wiring harness hope it solves the problem.