vhenem

It's a long one I'll apologize in advance :cheers: My license plate lights weren't working, so I crawled under the truck and noticed some wires that were not connected. So I did what any normal person would do and plugged them in thinking that was the problem, well it was........sort of. Jump forward a few days, I'm wiring up my electric fan to a switch so I can turn it on at will, get it working, go for a drive and discover that my dash lights were out, looked at the fuse box and sure enough, the park lamp fuse is blown, I replace it, turn on my headlights and pop goes another fuse. So I totally pull apart my fan wiring thinking that this was causing my fuse issues somehow, take it totally back to stock, turn on my headlights and pop, there goes another 10AMP park lamp fuse. So thinking back to my previous electrical earlier that week, I unplug both connectors I had plugged in, turn on my headlights and no pop, fuse is fine, go back plug in one connector, turn on headlights, and again fuse is fine. Plug in second, turn on headlights and pop goes the fuse. So I have these 2 Blue wires into one female bullet connector, and a single Black wire with a male bullet connector hanging out of the taillight harness, obviously they don't go together anyone have a clue as to what they are for ??? everything works without them plugged together.

I just did a 91 AW4/242 Swap into my 2WD 88 MJ, I transferred my CPS into the tranny, kept my flexplate and it dropped in with no problems. With any luck the 94 will be the same and you should have no issues

another good tip, thanks

good to know, thanks for the pic, did you use all of the cherokee springs in it minus the main leaf ?

I think what Comanche09 is looking for is the same as me, a way to go spring Over, but only net about 4" of lift. I am going to try the Explorer leafs, as I have access to a few of them, I also have access to leafs off a J10 but after looking at those and going by what hellcreek has said I don't think they will work for my intended purpose. I may have to just bite the bullet and order a set of lift springs and stay spring under.

Thanks Pete, I have 2WD leafs now, so if in theory the average height gained by a SO using 4WD springs is 5.5" and 2WD springs give you 1" less then if by using the explorer pack that gives me another 1/2 to 3/4" reduction i would be happy with the theoretical 4" lift, I guess it's off to the wreckers to grab some springs and let the experimentation begin. Cheap is good, that's my Scottish side coming out, I've looked at your website and have contemplated ordering a set of springs and staying spring under, but there are a few issues regarding UPS and exorbitant brokerage fees getting things into Canada. Last parts I ordered, cost me 150 + 35 Shipping and when it got to my door the UPS driver was standing there with his hand out looking for another $80.00. :fs1: Due to that I try to stay within Canada for the heavy stuff if I can, I assume Leafs would be too heavy for USPS, although I guess it would be a good excuse for a road trip :cheers:

Has anyone used FS Waggy or J10/J20 leaf springs in a spring over configuration on a MJ ? I'd like to do a SO on mine to clean up the underside of the axle, but really don't want to lift it more than 3-3.5" I'm hoping that since the FS jeeps were SO to start with the springs will have less arch to them and give me the height I want

Explorer Axle Codes, just open the door and take a look at the tag Code Description Capacity Ratio 41 Open 8.8" 3200 3.27 43 Open 8.8" 3200 3.08 44 Open 8.8" 3200 3.73 45 Open 8.8" 3200 3.55 D1 L/S 8.8" 3200 3.27 D2 L/S 8.8" 3200 4.10 D4 L/S 8.8" 3200 3.73 D5 L/S 8.8" 3200 3.73

Shouldn't be a problem

It doesn't engage a different lever, it is there apparently so that you can't drop it into N or 4 Lo accidentally. It's supposed to be a safety feature, personally I think it's a pain and will be making one of these http://www.bsfab.net/?p=26 as soon as I get the pieces. anyways, my problem has been solved, I jacked up one side of the truck so that both driver side wheels were off the ground, and by moving the wheels I was able to select every position, hooked up the linkage, adjusted it and so far (knock on wood) its working fine. :cheers:

I converted a 88 2WD using the D30,AW4,NP242 from a 91 Cherokee LTD I had been given, everything was swapped from the donor, tag on TC says 242J,shift bezel is for a 242 so I would assume I have a 242. I was told it was off the road due to engine problems, TB, injectors had been pulled so we didn't bother trying to start it, we just yanked everything I needed for the swap. I an mow starting to think that the Tcase was the reason it was parked. I can get it manually into 2WD it works fine, I can then cycle the selector, (by crawling underneath with a 14mm wrench) into what I believe is 4PT, and 4FT, neutral and 4LO seem to be none existant

The 242 sequence is: 2WD 4 Part Time 4 Full Time N 4LO Apparently I get only the 1st 3 or 4 when I move the selector manually from under the truck, or at least I think its the 1st three, thats why I was looking for a picture of the selector in the 4LO position . I've pretty much consigned myself to pulling the-case tomorrow now I just need to find another 23 spline 242 or 231 up here

This may sound like a dumb request, but does anyone have a picture of or a diagram that shows the orientation of the selector lever on a NP242 T-Case in relation to what gear it's In ? I am starting to think my case is fubar as I can only seem to move it through 4 positions, and am unsure as to what range it's in atm. Thanks in advance

hmmm, I'll take a look at that, any chance you have a picture of were you took the metal off ?

I grabbed everything off a parts jeep that I had for my 4WD Conversion, so the linkage was off the 242 that the 91 XJ came with. The problem I am having is the TC Shifter will not allow it to go into 2WD fully no matter how I adjust it. I can however crawl underneath and lock it in with no issues. I'm Grabbing a different linkage assembly tomorrow and will bolt that up to see if my problem is solved.

I've tried that a few times, I think that my linkage is at fault, I will try another out of a friends parts jeep. Other than the Novak T-case shifter, does anyone know of any other aftermarket shifters ? or maybe someone has fabricated one themselves ?

Well I may have not gotten off scot-free after all While trying to get the t-case adjusted properly, without much success I might ad, the indicator lights are now coming on in every position :wall: Back to the drawing board I guess. as a friend of mine said today "to get away without any issues at all... wouldn't be fair to anyone else."

If that was directed at me, I used the front diff, Transmission,T-case, Front DS the T-case shifter, linkages etc, I kept my column shift for the time being, but will eventually swap in the floor shifter when I convert to buckets. It's handy having your donor parked right next to what you are working on. The only real problem I am having is getting the T-case adjusted 100%.

Yes, FT indicator lights up when in FT, PT lights up when in PT. I do not have a vacuum disconnect and the T-case does have a switch for the lights. Did you add a bulb to the cluster where the FT indicator would be ? The tranny and T-case I used for my swap were from a 91 cherokee limited, my biggest surprise is that everything from the 91 just worked, no wiring needed to be done at all. I figured I would have at least had to swap some wires around for the tranny wiring.

I never rely on a light to tell me what is up with the T-case, i just like having everything work as intended. Thanks all for the info, once again this thing turned out be 100% plug and play. added bulbs, dropped the cluster back in and it just works. :banana:

Just finished Converting my 88 2Wd MJ to 4Wd, using a 91 Cherokee with an AW4/NP242. I've pulled my dash apart as I have some wiring issues to deal with and noticed that the plate for the 4Wd indicator is there on the guague cluster, what will I need to do wiring wise to make it functional ??

Driveshaft is at the Machine shop, looks like its going to be about $60.00 to have it shortened, definately worth it as opposed to the aggravation of running around a wrecker trying to find one the right length.

I now have first hand knowledge, that a 1991 AW4 into an 88 is plug and play. Nothing needed to be spliced or lengthened. I drove it home from the shop with just the Front DS hooked up and the tranny shifted and functioned just fine. I'm just waiting on the machine shop to shorten my driveshaft and I will be done phase one of my conversion. now the parts scrounging for the lift begins

Perfect, Thanks

My conversion is almost done, the only thing stopping me is a rear driveshaft, I have come to the conclusion that an original Comanche one is going to elude me so am looking for donors that may come close. The wreckers are all closed up here until tuesday, but it would be nice to know what vehicle i should be looking for as donors. current config is 88 LWB, AW4,NP242, D44 so according to the DS length sticky I should be looking for something between 47.5" and 48.25 Barring that, is it possible to have the stock 2WD DS cut down to fit ? I have the one with the rubber sandwiched between the tubes and am not sure if it's like that the entire length