vhenem

Yes I am, I will be using a set of aftermarket guages for temp, oil pressure and Amperage but I am curious now as to whether the other guages will drop in to the cluster and just work.

I have a 16 Gal (60L) Tank, from empty I added 60 L from 3 20L gerry cans, guage reads full, I will drive it until is shows empty and then fill it up again to get a true idea. I did not use the HO pump I am still using the renix pump/sending unit and it seems to be running just fine. The only difference between the 88 and 92 fuel gauges were the resistors on the guage itself, mounting, wiring and every thing else was identical, the 92 cluster even had the mounting points for the column shift indicator cast into it as well as the hole in the bottom.

Could it be that easy ?? I just did a full HO Swap into my 88 using the wiring, guage cluster computer etc from a mix of 92 & 93 XJ's. I had a few concerns, mainly about the the whole incompatible fuel sending unit, but also not having a functioning shift indicator on the column for when my daughter/wife drove it. So today I decided I was going to mod the HO Fuel guage so that I could add the shift indicator to it, then i had a thought, why couldn't i just swap the fuel guage from my renix cluster into the HO cluster, they mount the same, and the holes are already there for the shift indicator. So I proceeded to swap out the guages, dropped the cluster back in, attached the shift indicator to the column, turned on the key so i could check out the shift indicator to make sure it was lined up properly and hmmm whats this ??? my fuel guage is going the right way. naw couldn't be that easy, went and put in another 20 litres and yup the guage functions properly and appears to be dead on as far as accuracy goes. I find it hard to believe that I am the first one to try this, but in all my searching I have yet to find anyone else mentioning this as a solution.

A long shot i know bit I am in need of a sending unit/fuel pump for a HO MJ, either 91 or 92 Its a LWB, 16Gal. Tank if that makes any difference.

answered my own question, a few things seem to be different on mine than whats in the post here: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=19695 it states that on mine to use the stock 88 brake switch the pink wire was plugged into the hazard circuit on the 92 harness, the Blue/Blk from the switch was then plugged into Pin P on the Column. The wire from pin #11 the Black XJ Connector is left out and everything works.

just did a HO swap into my 88 using a 97 XJ, eng,trans,t-case , we then used the underhood and interior harness from a 92 XJ. I have been using this post for the electrical connections viewtopic.php?f=9&t=19695 and so far everything has been pretty much dead on. I am however a little lost in regards to wiring up the brake light switch, pink wire goes to hazards as per stock or could I just use any power source ? as far as the other wire goes, should I tie it in to the Brown and Gray Black wires on connector C157 ? or is there a better place to tap into. Oh yeah I do not have cruise if that matters.

We have decided to go with the complete HO swap on my 88, I have pretty much everything figured out but am looking for suggestios on how to adapt the Fuel lines between the renix and the HO. Is it possible to adapt the Renix Rail to the HO ?

I know this has probably been done to death but here goes. I have access to a 97 cherokee sport, 140,000 Km's, AW4, NP231. I was planning to use this in my 88 to replace my current powertrain. (347,000 Km's with oil blowby issues that all the fixes suggested havent cured) I also have access to a 92 cherokee for the wiring harness to do a HO swap. (I don't want to do a full 97+ conversion, I want to keep the interior as stock looking as possible) Here are the questions. To do a HO swap using the 92, I need every part of the wiring harness under the hood, dash etc ? ( after taking a look under the dash on it i stepped back and thought "crap that looks like alot of work" :eek: To use the motor out of the 97 without doing a HO swap It appears that I can; A: use my intake manifold on the HO block with a little porting ? and then transfer my sensors, dist, etc and drop it in. B: make an adapter plate to allow me to use my renix Throttle body on the HO manifold ? C: Try to fit my TPS to the HO Throttlebody ? I know about the Hesco kit, but 145 for a piece of aluminum and some screws seems high, and I can't seem to find a good link on doing this yourself D: Swap my renix head onto the HO block ? would a 88 head fit on the 97 block Thats about it I think

thinking of grabbing a 99 xj as a donor for a h.o. swap as well as front end and interior. any hassles i should be aware of ?

I've been looking for a stock sport/roll bar with no luck up here (Canada) for quite some time, I Have a friend who's a pretty good fabricator and hefigures we can make one pretty easily. I'd like to stick close to stock specs as possible, so is there someone who has one on their truck measure out the dimensions for me ?? Thanks in Advance

Well I got my answer in regards the the DS, called up the shop that will be shortening the DS, he dropped by my house over and measured it for me. looks like it will be 48.5" with the 242. I am going to leave the 231 out of the equation until after winter, having FT 4WD will be a bonus and then I can deal with the T-Case issue in the spring, I've been thinking about a crawlbox anyways so the DS issue will be easy to deal with. Thanks for the input

I will be going to pick up a 2WD MJ Driveshaft today, and will have it shortened, here is the question. will the 48" length listed in the DS lengths of stock trucks work ? (LWB, 4.0, AW4, NP242, D44 = 48") or should I add another inch to compensate for the 5" lift ? In a perfect world I would be able to get things set up and take a measurement but I have no access to the truck for a couple of days and would like to be able to just get it chopped, head home and drop it in.

The old D-Shaft was cut down as the truck was originally 2WD. We did the 4WD conversion and everything was fine, until we did the lift. Now my cut down DS is about an inch too short and I am back at square one. We moved the axle forward on the perches as a temporary measure just so I could run it. I spend some time at a couple wreckers over the last few days and have come up blank in regards to acceptable donors. everything is either too short, bent, dented or the wrong u-joint size :wall: I was hoping someone here had the same issues and had come up with a suitable donor. I am planning on swapping in a 231 as I am having some issues with my 242 not wanting to disengage from 4WD and I may have one from a TJ available to me.

Thanks, the Tranny and 242 in mine are from a 91, so it is a 23 spline, forgot to add that to my original post.

Would a NP231 T-Case from a 97 TJ work in the MJ ? I thought I read somewhere that they were clocked differently ? Second, looking for a rear driveshaft, I have a 88LWB, 4.0,AW4,NP242,D44 and according to the driveshaft list for stock trucks I need one 48" long, but since I have done a SO to get 5" over stock in the rear, would this number still work ? and since the odds of me finding a Comanche DS are slim, what should I be looking at for donor so I can get one cut down. Thanks in advance

I Just did a Spring Over in my 88, we ended up with 5" over stock. We used the stock shock plates under the original spring perches. Since this is being done on a budget, I am looking for auto wrecker parts as much as possible, and am wondering what people are using for rear shocks. Shock Mount

I’ve been gathering all the parts needed for my SOA, I’ve got my perches from the local Chrysler dealer, U-Bolts, Dakota Rear Brake Line etc. Just looking at options for shock mounts now and it’s a toss-up between getting some mounts welded to the axle or reusing the MJ’s Plate and reattach the shocks to them . Whats the best option ? pros/cons for each etc.

1988 Jeep Comanche Pioneer Original Specs: 4.0, AW4, 2WD, D44 LB Current Specs: 4.0, AW4/NP242, D30, D44 Build date: June 1988 Location: Salmon Arm, British Columbia Status: Currently my Daily driver / ongoing project Notes: Current owner: RW Robinson

I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that you should have no issues getting the pan out since it is 2wd. My issues were the pumpkin getting in the way. I should have done mine before or during my 4WD swap, but I was limited on shop time

I just did this, took a fair bit of prying with multiple screwdrivers to get the damn thing to pop off, biggest hassle was getting the axle down low enough to let the pan clear the tranny, I ended up popping the pitman arm off and that finally gave me enough room. Exhaust was not in the way but the starter definately was. Gasket remover was a big help in cleaning up the bottom of the block, 22 year old gasket is not fun :eek:

A piece of advice from a relative newbie to this, I would not throw away the donor until you are 100% complete with your swap. you never know what little part you are going to need. Having my donor beside mine while the swap was going on was invaluble

Hmmm Ill give that a try when i get a second body here, it's kind of a stretch solo :D

I answered my own question here I think, I had a friend send me some withing diagrams from Mitchell on Demand, it looks like in 88 (Mine) the wiring for the license plate lights were Dark Blue & Black In 91 they switched the wires to Dark Blue/Red and Black both diagrams show a single power lead though and neither one show this Blue two into one connector, well not that I can see anyway

hmmm, on mine the license plate lights are connected to a single blue wire with a red stripe and the ground. The only thing that looks none factory is a section where I chopped out an exposed section of wire reconected it and then chucked some heat shrink tubing on it It's not that I don't believe you guys, but it really doesnt make sense couple things, the box is not original I'm not sure what year it's from, do later years have different wiring ? Mine came from the factory with the tow package, could this be a way to hook up lights for a trailer ? Thanks

Thats what I thought when I first found it unplugged, but the license plate lights both work. And the license plate light wire is Blue with a Red Trace Next :hmm: