88mancheman

1988 Comanche 4.0 6cyl with an AW4 (out of a 93 Cherokee if it matters) :) I really appreciate everyone’s help too it’s made this go effortlessly so far [emoji106]

I hate to be that guy but both would be kinda helpful I’m finding varying specs from site to site Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Does anyone know the torque specs for the flywheel bolts?

Awesome thank you guys for the quick reply’s I’ll just reuse them and put some blue lock tight on [emoji106]

I feel like this is another dumb question, I’ve searched high far and wide and haven’t seem to come up with a definite bolt sizing for the flex plate to torque converter bolts, I’m replacing my flex plate over the next couple days(hopefully have all the parts todo such job) and plan on replacing the torque converter bolts for piece of mind while I’m down there but I cannot seem to find the correct size for them, are these just universal torque converter bolts I can grab at my local parts store?

I wish it was the bolts again I tightened them 3 times already and they still came loose after a few miles & I think last time I checked I could see the flex plate wobbling aswell so I think it’s time to pull the trans and figure out what’s going on

Awesome thank you for straightening that all out for me :) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you for the fast reply Eagle! I’ll give the stealership tomorrow and order a flex plate for an 88 AW4 that should work right? And I should have been more clear when I wrote assembly I meant the whole trans assembly(I was thinking they pulled one from JY and literally just bolted this thing in with All the 93 parts but some part of me wanted to doubt that) [emoji2] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey all, my 1988 MJ is starting to make the infamous flex plate knock [emoji30] only major issue is that the PO swapped an AW4 out of a 1993 XJ, so this leads to my question what flex plate would I require? one for an 88 renix CPS? Or is it possible that the PO swapped the CPS from the 93 and just swapped the whole assembly?

@Eagle I’m slowly leaning towards the nv3550 becuase like you said the first gear is lower, But my only worry is I’ve heard mixed reviews about them having shifting problems? (Could this just be people driving them like the stole them?) also is the final overdrive drive ratio lower than the ax-15? I’ve done some research but information seems to change from site to site on that Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

@jeeppapa that’s kinda what I was thinking, while I was on my recent wheeling trip a few of the wrangler guys mentioned they had an ax15 and an nv3550 they would part with for $400 each I’m gonna sell off these two BA10/5 and get one of those... kinda off topic but what which trans would y’all pick out of the two? Nv3550 or ax-15? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you guys for the reply’s! After a recent wheeling trip to my local OHV park I kinda made the decision that I need something stronger than the BA10/5 while it would be easy and cheap at the moment you guys are right it is a light duty transmission more geared towards street use with street tires and if I really want to put a 5 speed back into the truck I might aswell upgrade the truck and put an ax-15 or NV3550 into it......now that my next question thought... ax-15 or NV3550 which one is better? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The one I bought on my road trip to Reno I’m somewhat confident that it’s in good condition the older gentleman built his wrangler with a Chevy 350 and a th400 trans and said that it only had around 68k when he pulled it, only thing is I think I need to swap the rear housing from the MJ transmission to make the Transfer-case sit properly As for the one I was just offered from my friends buddy he has paperwork to prove it was rebuilt about 30k ago but you never know... Is there any way to know if they are just a big ole $100 boat anchor before I install them? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Eagle what size tire do you run on your rigs? Do you think 31” tires are majorly oversized for the BA10/5? I understand that the BA 10/5 is not ideal to be swapping back into the Jeep since I have the AW4 already installed and the AW4 seems to be the best option for off-roading, but in reality my rig sees road 80% of the time and the rest is mostly just trail riding and bumping over small obstacles like pipes and trees and crubs[emoji13], I would eventually like to put an AX-15 behind the 4.0 in my MJ but I currently can’t afford a 2k transmission swap todo that so this to me seems to be the next most budget friendly option to get the MJ back to manual Unless I am gravely mistaken aswell don’t some of the parts such as clutch and transmission crossmember and odd things like that from the BA 10/5 interchange with the AX-15? Also of topic but a friend of mine called me up about 30 min ago and offered me another BA 10/5 outta his buddies MJ with a transfer case and driveshafts to swap right in...this makes me even more tempted since I will then have 2 transmissions Incase one takes a dump...am I crazy or am I just thinking outside the box..? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you for the quick reply Eagle! My MJ is an 88 Its close but not exactly stock, the current AW4 transmission driveshaft and Chrysler 8.25 rear end are swapped out of an 94 XJ, it has a spring over axle conversion in the rear which I’ve hear gives about 4.5” if lift in the rear(it really looks like 2-3”) and in the front it has a straight axle swap I believe out of the same 94 XJ with those ploy leveling blocks above the coils (I believe I measured them to about 2.5” ish but I could be wrong)she’s sitting on 31x10.5 MT tires everything else is stock to my knowledge :) I usually drive like a grandpa to be honest there is the occasional time where I give it a little throttle to pass someone on the freeway... or get on the freeway for that matter or occasionally slide in some dirt but it’s very rare that my MJ sees more than 2500rpm on the street and no more than 3k rpm on dirt when crawling small hills and trials and obstacles and such in my local Offroad truck park called Holister hills ohv park Would it be expensive to have a BA10/5 gone thru and synchros changed before I install it? And how hard is it to find parts for a BA10/5? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey all so while I was on a road trip I was scrolling on Craigslist and seen a Jeep manual transmission for $100 so of course I called the guy up and scoop this hunk up and took it home, after getting it home and taking a fine tooth comb over everything I found out this ain’t an AX15 the guy claimed it was instead it’s a BA 10/5 transmission, while it’s still obvious it is a low miles transmission is this even worth my time and money to build and swap into my MJ? I currently have an AW4 that’s doing me well but I just want to return the MJ to its original state with a manual transmission... I’m just not 100% sure putting what came outta the truck back in is a great idea Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Darren thanks for your input! I’m starting to lean towards to rail shifter as it seems like it will give me the satisfaction of shifting while keeping my AW4 in there, I sent an email to Rory at Radesigns yesterday about using the rail shifter on the road hopefully he has some good things to say aswell :) Eagle I like the simplistic idea, I googled rotary switch shifter and couldn’t find exactly what you are talking about but I can picture it in my head kinda like the new Jeeps use the turn dial switch from P-D I could do that to switch 1-4 and tc lockup, or go one step further and maybe even do some sorta push sequential shifter for 1-4? I saw a YouTube video with a guy who made a sequential shifter for the AW4 which looks awesome but either time consuming or expensive to buy unless y’all have seen that for sale anywhere? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I tried searching but came up empty so far, has anyone ever used a Radesigns Rail controller or anything similar still on the market and had much success with it? My 88 has a AW4 swapped into it but the PO never put a TCM in the rig so it’s a manually shifting AW4 right now and it sucks not having 2nd gear till near 4K rpm (which I never hit in my rig) 1st to 3rd just seems so sluggish on the trans and I’d like to be able to use 2nd gear when taking off and something like the rail shifter seems to be small but a perfect fit for my needs if it’s ok to use on the road and helps in the dirt[emoji1745]‍[emoji3603] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

yeah I've been having to shift manually, and yeah the truck was stock a 2wd manual transmission truck but has now been converted to 4wd auto, where should I look for the TCM in a Comanche? I know in an XJ its under the searing coulomb

Ill check out the spedo situation tomorrow, but the trans being a AW4 explains why it has 1-2 3 and D on the shiftier instead of 12 D I've noticed that it still has the manual transmission TPS could that be all that is holding the auto transmission from automatically shifting? ill start up a new thread on this tomorrow as this is beginning to get off topic

but while we are on the subject of trans and such does anyone know if an 88 ran off a spedo cable? my spedo has never worked since I bought it and I've noticed that I have an electronic spedo input thingy with the gear on the transfer case when I'm sure it should be cable driven ill post a better pic tonight when I get a chance

I re tightened the pinion nut to 200ft lbs and it seems a lot more secure on the diff now I haven't gotten the angle finder yet so that will have to be tomorrows project, but in the mean time here's some pics of my trans

I'll take a picture of the trans tomorrow morning when its light out, I've had the thought that the trans is just disconnected somewhere or like you said has a blown fuse because the PO seemed to have left the manual trans TPS on the throttle body instead of swapping to an auto one with 2 plugs therefore the trans has no clue when to shift? MJCARENA I do believe that the shocks would reach the lower mounts on the axle, when I bought it I'm pretty sure that's how they where but they where both blown out and did nothing for the rear end so when I replaced them with the elcheapos to get me on the road I put them in the "stock" location thinking that would be a little more proper but I guess their is a reason they welded those on I will test the mounts for integrity tomorrow as well, but would those hack job of mounts be acceptable for shocks if they fit and seem sturdy enough?

Thank you for the info eagle! I have an angle finder on its way it should be here tomorrow then I will confirm all the angles in the drive line once I find the angles would moving the pinion yoke down be as simple as loosening the u bolts holding the axle to the leaf spring and rotate it the axle a little bit?? dasbulliwagen would a relocation of the shock mount be necessary for a smoother ride? or would a smaller shock work better? and I'd assume smaller shock would limit my flex in the rear end if I did go that route am I correct? also I could be wrong but I believe I have a 32RH trans, it only had 3 speeds and I have a red button on my dash that drops my RPM which I assume is a torque converter locker, and I like to call the trans an autostandard as you have to manually shift the gears like your driving a power glide first gear goes to about 20mph at 2k 2nd does about 40mph at 2k until I lock the torque converter and then it does 50-60mph at 2k with torqe converter locked in 2nd gear and in 3rd gear I don't use much unless I'm on the highway because 3rd gear doesn't feel much different than 2nd gear unless I have the torque converter locked then its like a whole other gear maybe it is just too high of gearing for town speeds but she will reach about 75-80 with the torque converter locked in 3rd gear