EdJarHead

Interior needs some work (recover the headliner and seats). Right now, I'm chasing down a short that's draining the battery, and still have a little suspension work to finish (replacing the old bushings and worn parts). Also need to clean up/polish (or replace) the taillights. Yes, rear bumper came from a Jeep Gladiator... just a little trimming on the ends/corners to make it fit and a little minor fabrication for mounts to bolt it on.

Is this one end of C115 connector? The one on the right in the photo (which has the black/yellow wire cut). The one on the left I believe is the one that goes to an Emission Maintenance box (disconnected, and the warning light has been pulled also... one way to fix that I guess). I cannot find the other end for this connector, though I also haven't been able to see behind the gauge panel, as I believe the speedometer or tachometer cables are holding it too tight to move out of the way.

The cut black/yellow wire is coming out of harness from fuse panel, and then feeds into the ECU harness heading out through firewall.

Took me a while to get back to this... and to get to these plugs! Still seeing an amp draw after disconnecting radio and clock. I believe the loose connector in center of 1st photo is the headlamp delay module plug, but this was loose (I can't see where it plugged into anything). In the other photo (holding plug), I believe this went to the service maintenance module? and has the black/yellow wire cut (can see a taped splice behind). Going to unwrap that and make sure it was spliced properly. Not comforting to see someone has messed around under here.

Thank you again. May not be able to get back to this until Monday but for clarification, disconnect the actual radio (power), clock (power), etc?

Thanks! Pulling the ETR fuse caused the AMP draw to go away (0), putting it back and pulling the HD LT/DLY fuse resulted in an increased AMP draw of 0.73 ?!? There is nothing connected to the B+ terminal adjacent to that slot.

Thanks... it was actually loose and dangling underneath here. I attached it where it looked like it was supposed to be.

I stand corrected... there are three red wires that split off the one green (not two). So, this must be two different Fuse Links on a single ring connector? One has to be H... but how do I identify the second one?

Looking at Electric Manual schematics, I'm thinking this is Fuse Link H, as one green splits into two reds and the other into one. These appear to run to Foglamps (don't have); Engine Compartment Light (don't have this either); and Fuse "box" terminal (which is kind of a mess from clutch fluid damage and some previous "fixes"). I do have an open relay receptacle on the driver side (maybe for Fog Lights?) and an unplugged red wire I found along the passenger side of the engine compartment. Photos attached.

Thank you for this (and to AZJeff). I used a multimeter to identify the wiring here causing a .05 amp draw. (double green wire, each leading to red wires in the harness after passing thru a diode?). Looking thru schematics now to try and ID where they go, cuz that harness has a whole bunch of red wires that all look the same... so I can track them for a couple of inches at best!

Did not realize I had a glovebox light, and it was loose (but no bulb in there). I've remedied that and will get out with my meter in the next couple days to begin testing which of these is drawing current. Thanks for the tips and feedback!

When I got my truck, it had a bad parasitic drain that was killing the battery after just a couple days. Couldn't find anything under the dash, and when I began to search around the engine bay, I remembered that there was a new starter relay in a box of parts that came with the truck. Installed the new relay and the short was gone... for a couple months. Came back and killed the battery again. I'm a former Marine, so taking things apart or breaking them is my strongest skill. Trouble shooting is weak. I do have a battery cut-off switch to save my battery while I figure this out. How do I test if the relay is causing this, and more importantly, what would be causing the relay to go bad and short out? Photo attached of the relay wired up the same as the one that was there.

I cut a piece of the hard tube from the old harness and it fit into the airbox opening and tube nicely. About 1-1/2 inches of the old tube is all that's needed. Also contacted Dorman, and they do not have a part number for only that J hose (though it wouldn't fit on one end anyway). I've been to several parts stores to see what they had on the shelf, but haven't tried NAPA yet.

Finally got around to giving my truck a cosmetic upgrade. Was originally Baltic Blue, Olympic edition (gold stripes) and paint was in poor shape with a really bad rattle can "touch up" by PO over some of the rougher parts as well as the vinyl stripes. This is not a perfect professional job either, as the sanding and prep work was done rather hastily. Marine Corps Dress Blue colors now.

Thanks for this. I think I should buy the entire rear harness for the CCV hose as these are all old/original parts, but I also have a second hose (same J shape and size) that runs from the air intake to the tube that runs all the way around the firewall to the canister. Just need to find that 2nd "J-shaped" hose.

Anyone know of a source for the "J" shaped hose on this CCV harness? Hate to buy the whole thing when only that hose is bad, plus I have a 2nd hose of that same size & shape (off the back of the air box) that needs replacement as well.

These pins fit perfectly. Smallest ones I found on Amazon were too thick for the plugs. 7-1452665-3 - Te Connectivity - Automotive Connector Contact, MCON Series, Socket (newark.com)

Working on this "mod" for my 88 Comanche now. For anyone looking for a clean hookup with the LED license plate lamps; after searching to the ends of the internet, I did find the plugs that fit these lights exactly. Inexpensive, and you can buy just a couple as there is no minimum quantity required (I got 4 because my first attempts at these things doesn't always go as planned). Shipping was reasonable as well. However, these are only the plastic plugs and the metal connection pins are not included. Found a small package of those on Amazon. Now I only need to figure out if polarity matters in wiring these into my harness.

Thanks... too easy. It was/is in fact a faulty light.

Thanks, this helps... wiring is better than what I found on my '75 Triumph Spitfire when I got that... it had (household) wire nuts in several places, and more than a few hot wires that went no where (as if those cars weren't fire hazards already).

Chasing down open circuits and cleaning up wiring on my 88 Comanche, and I see what looks like a PO "mod" combining 2 black with yellow stripe wires and also 2 yellow with black strip wires on these 2 jumpers into the fuse box. Can anyone tell me what these are? Where they previously attached to the back side maybe? Any recommendations other than checking/cleaning up the splice/connections? Thanks!

Just put these in on my truck. Drivers side is working as expected, but passenger side (wired the same) only works in manual mode (moving the light up/down). When in center position, the door open is not turning it on. Maybe a bad light module??

Just did some work on my axle (seals, universal joint replacement) and one of the vacuum lines on the CAD is broken. Anyone know of a replacement source (or size) for these?

Thanks... that's very helpful... turns out it is a bad horn.

Did not think to test that first...(duh)... probably should have before I bought a new relay! Thanks!