ride172

Just giving you a hard time.. I've sold a few autos on Craigslist too.. I also hate being "on".. I feel like a cheesy buy here, pay here salesman.. The worst one was a jetta I sold for my mom.. It had got about 3 inches of rain and hail through the sunroof, so it had electrical gremlins.. I said "i think its a fuse but I don't know where the fuse box is." Felt so bad. But I sold it.. Maybe you should change your name to selling Sam.. "where nobody beats a selling Sam deal, nobody.."

Is this gonna be another vehicle for your "cousin", who is then gonna back out of the deal and leave you holding the bag?? Saw the ad for the 60th aniv. XJ on craigslist.. Why the deception?

It is a guage that gives the same real time MPG as the factory roof display.

Are talking about an economy gauge? All of those I have seen plug into the obd port and I don't think they would work with Renix. I think an afr gauge wouldn't be a very good economy indicator. But this is based off of reading and not experience. Maybe I'm wrong? Edit- just reread the post above, I think you were asking something different..

Thanks for the good reply, I'm very encouraged to this now. Do you have a preference for analog or digital. I like the analog look just don't know how accurate the tenths would be. Plus it is quite a bit cheaper. Also, I read on naxja about a guy who had access to a Renix ecu scan tool. He said the Renix o2 sensor had a range of 0-5 v .. It's my understanding that is the same range as the wideband gauge. Can anyone verify this? Or is the Renix o2 0-1v?

I have been thinking about getting a wideband AFR gauge in hopes of being able to tell when the Renix computer switches to closed loop mode. My thinking is that there would be a different reading for closed loop and open loop. Also I think it would be a good heads up if there was ever a problem with a sensor giving a faulty reading and making it run rich or lean. Any one try this? Do you fellas think it would do the jobs I am wanting it to?

You had one too many image tags.. I would pull the cover and take a look. Mine was pretty rusty under the raised spots on the cover between the bolt holes. This was due to the diff gasket. It only seals the inside of the cover, not around the holes. I got a new gasket for 9 bucks (you need the gasket) and then used rtv around the holes and raised spots.

"Identifying the gear ratio of an AMC 20 is a bit tricky. Dana axles normally have a tag on the left of the diff cover with the gear ratio at the time of build. The AMC axles have a code that has to be looked up in a table. The code is stamped on the housing boss to the left of the diff cover right near the axle tube. Good part about the stamp is it tends to stay readable longer than the tag, but you have to know the code. Since there are conflicts between what a code means for a narrow track and what it means for a wide track, don't count solely on the code to identify an axle. Bring a tape measure or know the source of the part." (I'm pretty sure where it says to the left of diff cover they mean pass. side, because that is where mine is stamped.) Wide Track AMC 20 Code Gear Ratio Diff Type D 2.73 Open DD 2.73 Trac-Lok B 3.31 Open BB 3.31 Trac-Lok A 3.54 Open AA 3.54 Trac-Lok H 3.73 Open HH 3.73 Trac-Lok C 4.10 Open CC 4.10 Trac-Lok (The letter code is different for narrow track 20's, the mj axle is a wide track) See the X? That is where the stamp is located. Looking at the info I have, I can't find what ratio "x" is :dunno:

They are probably casting numbers. I'm in my garage looking at my axle. The stamp is right on the edge where the tubes are welded in. Pass. side.

It's not on the top. It's there, if you got the 20 its stamped on there. It's not a very big letter, smaller than half inch. Flat spots, perpendicular to the ground, on the rear of the axle, 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock. It's there, its only removable with a grinder.

should have told you this too. the gear ratio is stamped on the flat area on the rear of the axle next to the diff cover. I think its on the the passenger side, you may have to scrape some gunk off. But if it has 4.10 it will be stamped "C" if 4.10 limited slip it will be stampd "CC". There is a chart around here somewhere that has the letter code broke down, I used it to find out what I had. If it is stamped something other than "C" and you can't find the chart, post it up and someone will be able to tell you..

It's an amc 20.. mine had the torx bolts on it. Just changed my gear oil and got 12 new hex bolts for the cover.. the torx size is 40.. broke torx bits getting them off..

This is what I would do in your situation...

some how I double posted... don't' know how that happened... I guess I missed the raves about the stuff from home depot.. I'll have to look.. Thanks for the info

I'm moderately picky I guess.. :dunno: I want my MJ to be as good as it can be. If there are more advantages to having the pad, then I'll leave it. If there are more disadvantages then I'll rip it off. I just have a hard time making up my mind. That's mainly why I'm here, I just like to know what the Comanche community thinks is best and the reasons why.. Took me over a half an hour to decide between 5w30 and 10w30 the other day. :nuts:

Not that kind of pad :no: , carpet pad... :yes: After getting my leaky heater hose fixed and floor board all dried out and cleaned up, I'm ready to re-install the interior. I'm torn between ripping the padding off the back of my carpet or leaving it attached for warmth and a quiet ride. I know it is rust's wet dream and all but I just can't make myself rip it off. I used some cold galvanized primer and a spray bomb on the steel because I had it lying around.. I know Por-15 is best but it just wasn't in the budget this time around, maybe next winter. So back on topic, will my truck sound like I'm in a steel can without the padding? Will I freeze in the winter time? It does get cold here. So what do you think leave it or ditch it?

Not that kind of pad :no: , carpet pad... :yes: After getting my leaky heater hose fixed and floor board all dried out and cleaned up, I'm ready to re-install the interior. I'm torn between ripping the padding off the back of my carpet or leaving it attached for warmth and a quiet ride. I know it is rust's wet dream and all but I just can't make myself rip it off. I used some cold galvanized primer and a spray bomb on the steel because I had it lying around.. I know Por-15 is best but it just wasn't in the budget this time around, maybe next winter. So back on topic, will my truck sound like I'm in a steel can without the padding? Will I freeze in the winter time? It does get cold here. So what do you think leave it or ditch it?

I have seen the girlie camo truck in fort collins, co a few times. I think the bed has been changed since the pic, and I don't remember seeing the stinger/light bar.. not what you requested but its all I got.

Thanks for the info boss. Any other suggestions or tips? I wish I could go get it done right now but the combination of taking care of my daughter all day and my wife being the manager of a Kay Jewelers around Valentines day means very little garage time. Oh well at least I got a garage. :yes: Have to be during nap time..

Does the JB putty bond water tight to metal, I'd hate for it to leak between the pipe and the JB weld.

I had some coolant soaked carpet on my 88 and I could see where it had been running down the firewall. Naturally I assumed it was the core. I wanted to be 100% sure before I gutted my interior that the core was the problem. I had no steam or smell of coolant so I pressure checked the core with a bicycle tube and my fuel pressure gauge. It held 15lbs for over 12 hours so I am going to assume it is good. But my problem is with the bottom pipe stubbed through the firewall. When I pulled the old hose off it was all mangled. It is bent and pretty much shaped like a triangle with rounded points. I'm sure this is the cause of my leak. What can I do to make sure I get a good seal with the hose? I don't want to damage the core by trying to make the end round again. I thought about some jb weld putty, but wasn't sure if would hold up to the heat cycles and coolant. Just kinda unsure of how to move forward. Maybe splice a new piece of pipe on it with a flare on the end? I don't know, what do you think I should do?

I got the interior lights... Both have the clips/tabs and the chrome is good... One is in perfect working order, but the other one has a problem in the switch... The tab that holds "roller" that makes contact in the switch is melted and the "roller" came off... The tab isn't broken just bent up.. I pm'd another member about them, if he doesn't want them.. I'll let you know... The trans has been pulled but that's it, everything else is still there... Wasn't someone here looking for the 10 spoke "turbine" or I call them "wagon" wheel center caps... It has 3 in good shape

What is considered reasonable? Just so I know in the future.. I hate getting ripped off Going to get some stuff at the yard today, but someone already asked bout the dome lights.. Ill let you know

I just recently replaced the lines on my 88... Ordered them from rock auto and they came in the hugest boxes.. I think they were like $13 a piece... BUT the other day while climbing up I-76 in the mountains one of the lines busted at the factory crimp and I lost all my tranny fluid... Had to cut and splice in the freezing cold and crazy wind... The crimp looked like only an 1/8 inch of hose actually got crimped and it pulled out... So double check and give them a tug... Oh yeah and the plastic quick connect busted while I was cutting the line so I had to wire it to the dipstick tube... :doh: Still got to go boarding for a few hours though

did you get the 44 sam??