JE39

Looks like it's a brazed joint. :) Good work, keep it up! I plan on painting mine too, but all the prep work that's needed.... Hats off to anyone doing it.

Hmm. Ok, going by a percentage of the actual input voltage (instead of a fixed output value) does indeed make sense. I'm going to re-adjust it. Thanks! :)

@jeepdude89 Thanks a bunch! I'll try that. @cruiser54 I've allready cleaned the C101 and all grounds I found, following your advice :) Guess I just have to do more cleaning. I adjusted the TPS following the factory injection manual, which states to just "adjust as close as possible to 0.8V". After I've done this, the engine runs much smoother. I probed the connector with some pieces of wire and high quality tester cable thingys (don't know the proper term). However, I did not yet actually measure resistance - I'll do that as soon as possible! Thanks!

Hi! Just out of curiosity; the IAC seems to be rather new. However it was not me who installed it, but the PO. I had a starting issue, and sometimes after startup idle would "stick" at 1000 or 2000RPM. Sometimes idle is very low and the engine stalls. And sometimes after cranking the revs go up for a very brief moment and drop to idle speed (within less than a second). I think this is how it's supposed to work. I pulled the IAC - looks just as clean inside than outside. I oiled it anyway, which seems to have improved things a LOT. I have no more high idle. After I replaced & adjusted the TPS, I also have a lot better starting. But - the engine still struggles most times to maintain idle the first few seconds after cranking. And when cold, I have a little flat-spot when pushing the accelerator down FAST. Now what I wonder about is - I was able to push the IAC in - but was not able to pull it out by hand... Is this normal, or is the IAC faulty?? I suspect the IAC is my issue. But before I spend any money,, I'd like to hear a few opinions. Thanks for your thoughts! :)

Today I noticed that the distributor was loosed and shaking when the engine ran... I tried to tighten the bolt of the clamp - it was tight. So a little research showed that this clamp is actualkly not supposed to be there... So I removed my "clamp". And, well.. To the right - this was in there. Note the nut someone wedged under to try and give it some leverage... To the left is my version, I quickly knocked up from an old Merc exhaust hanger. Result: distributor is firmly attached and clamped down rock solid. The cause was a broken flange, which apparently is not that unusual? Anyway, my slightly less quick&dirty hackjob seems to have fixed the issue.

I would assume that they are meant to level the bed, so the swage lines line up perfectly. They are individual for every car from the factory. So you'd have to put the bed on an then see where it needs raising to meet the swage lines of the cab. Shouldn't be too hard to see, given how thick they are :) (make sure that car is on level ground)

Hi! Yeah, I think it's one of the best looking Coupés they ever made. The V8s only ever went into the sedans, the 3.2l L6 was the biggest engine that went into the coupés. Mine's got a heart transplant that was never offered from factory - it's now a 3l turbodiesel :D 500Es are way overprices over here as well...

So, it's pretty much on daily duty currently... Took it to Lake Constance, to collect yet another hydraulic floor jack (I have 12 of them)... Also used it for gardening... ...and to clear out my second garage, where my other Mercedes is locked up. So far it's been very realiable, never missed a beat. I'm starting to trust it's reliability (it's gone to many less caring hands before me). I put on about 1000km the last couple of weeks (620mls). Only onething is bugging me; there's a big oil leak somewhere I can't pin down exactly. But it looks like the front crank seal or oil pan. So - there's work ahead.

Another thought; maybe a previous owner has bypassed the NSS, to solve a non-start issue??

Thanks for confirming this is the factory setup :) So my car was probably also a bumper delete car... Rolled off the assembly line as a SporTruck, so makes sense it would be optional for a base model. As for the Prius; I'm doing the best I can to rid the planet of fossile fuels; one of the reasons I'm driving a Jeep. The Prius just helps to prolong the era of fossile fuels, by not burning them... :D

Unimaginable nowadays... Thanks for confirming :)

Hi! Just the other day I noticed that there is a third plate light behind the rear bumper... Now the bumper is an aftermarket ("Fey" I believe?). Does this mean that my MJ was perhaps delivered without rear bumper from the factory!?!? Everything looks like there's a plate meant to be... :dunno:

I took out the "Customliner"... And was surprised, in a good way. That's FAR better than I was expecting it to be... Awesome! Also installed overriders to the front bumper and painted the headlight surrounds black. Gave the bumper a lick with linseed oil, and all is "fresh" again. And I finally replaced the other front bearing. at first, it didn't look too bad and I feared that I might have another bearing in the trans or rear axle that's broken... But when I took out the rollers from the inner (big) bearing... I had found my problem: It's almost beautiful to look at! :D Anyway; no more bearing noises, all quiet as a whistle. Not even whining from the diff, which is nice. I'm currently in two minds whether to leave it 2WD or convert to 4WD. But before I take that decision, I'll need to replace a lot of brake lines and most importantly; both floor panels. Had not lifted the carpet yet, but I can see pinholes (being very euphemistic here :D) from below...

Hi! Don't know, I guess not more than a hand full... As far as I know, they never officially sold them over here? So I also replaced the rear wheel bearings, since I still had a wheel bearing noise after I replaced the front wheel bearing. This time it didn't change when cornering, so I assumed it was one of the rears that was gone as well. But they were actually fine... I replaced them anyway, since one race had some slight wear and I had the parts. I didn't make a difference. Still have a bearing noise. I think I'm just missjudging and it's actually the other front bearing that's shot. I'll take it apart soon and have a look. It's not super-evil, but present. I felt comfortable enough to put the MJ on tat hauling duty... I feared some metric/imperial incompatibility, but the quad-locker fitted perfect. Just - perfect! Maybe 1/8" of an inch clearance to the tail gate :D What surprises me; I get a fairly constant consumption of around 18.8 MPG. That's far better than what I was expecting!

I got a TH67-without-a-T :thumbsup: Though the more I drive the car, the better it starts and the less I have a hesistant throttle / flat spot when accelerating from a stop. Maybe it knows it's in tender caring hands :chillin:

Thanks! Found it! :thumbsup: 3B

Hi! I assume it once was printed on the sticker on the bottom of the driver's door... But it's completely gone, it's just the bare sticker left. Is there any other location for the paint code? Not sure I can get a build sheet from Jeep/Chrysler for a Comanche, since we are on the other side of the big pond. I'll try, but if there's another place to look myself - much easyer :) Thanks!

Thank you guys!! :) The car made a rythmic noise when driving, didn't sound like a wheel bearing. But cornering the noise changed. So I ordered a set of new bearings. Wasn't all that easy over here, but I found a supplier who actually stocked them. So quickly pulled the front hub. I took many test-drives, but in the end I was about sure it was the front left bearing that was at fault. All pretty crusty down there... Luckily you don't have to remove the caliper carrier bracket, since I don't have the correct Torx socket for the job... :D It's surprising, that Jeep used so many Torx bolts, I only know them on cars from the mid- to late 90s on. Anyway, knocked out the old bearing races with a drift, knocked the new ones in - quick job. I like replacing bearings on non-driven wheels :D Packed with Castrol LMX, ready to go back in. A quick test drive confirmed that my diagnosis was right. Not that I needed the test-drive to confirm my diagnosis........ That's the worst I have ever come across....... Wow. Just - wow. No wonder the car made noises like a fully loaded freight train :D :D

Thanks for the quick reply! You are right, rare is only good on a steak... :D I'M actually considering a 4WD conversion. Maybe that's the opportunity rigt now, I'd like to buy a whole D30 anyway to source the parts.

Hi! Worst case, the little cable that goes to the shifter cowling on the steering column has snapped. Best case: it came loose. It's just attached with a little metal clip to the tubular cowling that rotates with the shifter around the column. You should be able to see it quite well when the lower dash panel is removed. The red indicator pointer is pulled back with a little spring, if the cable gets lose or lost, it pulles the indicator all the way back beyond the face of the gauge... Best picture I have at hand:

Hi! I'm having trouble sourcing parts for the front axle of my RWD MJ... It was mentioned to me, that the factory used 4WD hubs/steering knuckels from '91 on on RWD cars too? How was this done, and what parts do I need to convert my front axle to accept 4WD hubs / steering knuckels?? Sourcing 4WD parts is much less of an issue since the XJ was sold over here, just never with RWD, they all have 4WD. An MJ is very exotic - RWD is even rarer... Any help appreciated!

So, some updates on this... I temporarily installed a "red" cluster from a Cherokee. This will do until I get hold of my "unicorn" gauge cluster. Turns out the correct sensor had allready been installed by the previous owner, which explains the glowing oil press & temp idiot lights :doh: I used the black face cover, didn't like the grey that came with the "red" cluster. And then, I finally insured & registered the car. I was very lucky that my county still has plate numbers available that fit the rear bumper recess. This is the shortest possible plate one can have, many countys are very reluctant to hand them out, due to the low quantity of possible combinations. Usually it's 2-3 digit county code, two letters and 1 to 4 numbers. P.e. XX(X) XX 123(4). I was a happy bunny when the chief officer at the registration office permitted me a shorty plate. Yes!! That's like german car guy's dream plate :D ^also installed my favourite long, flexible fiber glas antenna... And here's a picture from the interior. The bench seat will be fixed when it comes out for welding the floors... Which of course are rusted out. :grrrr:

Thanks. And sorry for lack of precision; I meant the car bein on axle stands... :) Ride height is stock, no lift. I'll investigate, I know the previous owner did something with the rear brakes, I'm going to take the the drums off anyway. Thanks for your input! If all fails I guess I'll be forced to delete the valve. I guess there are no repair kits available?

Hi! I noticed that when I have the rear axle jacked up, that the rear brakes seem to be cut-off when I apply the brakes. Resp. no braking occurs at the rear axle. Is this normal? I've not been able to test it on the road (not insured yet), but if there's a potential problem with the rear brakes, I'd rather fix it before I put the car on public roads... Thanks!

Much appreciated! :)