bruceb

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/cto/d/sebastopol-1988-jeep-comanche/6920461912.html

Stopped and took a few pictures today. After looking it over it should not sell for more than $1000, not many straight panels at all, but they may find someone to pay the asking price of $2500.

How much was your front coil cut? 2"?

Not stealing my thunder at all! Love to see what others are doing and sharing what they have found that works.

Cleaned up under the hood by degreasing, reconnecting vacuum and electric wires into the correct places this past weekend. Took it in for smog and failed. There is still one vacuum leak that causes high idle and smog tech could hear it. So I know the area where it is, so I need to track it down and repair. I have been surfing craigslist the past month for bucket seats and also checked at Pick n Pull. Nothing but junk or overprices. Found new race seats on eBay, but the wrong color. The spray on vinyl dyes have gotten much better, so I decided to give it a try. The seats I ordered where black and red, so my exterior and interior theme is tan and black, I prepared the red areas and used the spray color change dye. I mis-taped a couple of spots, so have some respray to due, but not bad for the first time. Next is to make up the mounting brackets and weld them in. Here are the results below and the fast motion 2 hours video in 2 seconds.: https://youtu.be/oqAUxhyKCcM

Measured up the rear and just short of 4 inches of drop. Was hoping 5 inches with 1" shorter Cherokee shackles and 2-inch lowering block and 2 inches in tire difference height.

Completed the lower in the rear - 3 inches. I think it is starting to look better and now time to tackle the front springs. Changed out the gauge cluster, but the fuel gauge not working. The gas gauge is maxed out way full. Need to pull the cluster back out and check that gauge electrical connection. The tachometer is sluggish and seems to read lower than it should, so will check the potentiometer on it. I do not know the history of the gauge cluster, so not sure if it came from a 6 cyl. or 4 cyl. Big wildfires north of here in Napa and Sonoma, so the air quality here in Berkeley is bad today. No outdoor work today.

Back from my one-week trip to Phoenix area. Started with more body work and smoothing out all the dings and dents. The bed is almost done, just one large dent in wheel wall area to pull out. Installed the new 17" Jeep rims and 215/40r17 tires. Changes the look already! My daughter thought the new tires looked like clown tires because they are so small compared to the 235/75r15 that were on it. Once it is lowered it will look better. All the parts to lower the rear arrived finally. 1. Shocks - 2 Monroe Absorber-Gas-Matic LT 59367 (fits 95-04 2WD Toyota Tacoma) - these are shorter than stock height Comanche shocks 2. Rear Shakels - Omix-Ada 18280.19 Shackles - The shorter Jeep Cherokee version. 3. Rear Axle lowering Blocks - Belltech 6100 Lowering Block Kit - 2" Blocks 4. Poly Bushings - Daystar, Jeep Greasable Bolt, and Bushing Kit Rear Shackle KJ02026BK - Thought I ordered red bushings, but I ordered black as the part number shows. 5. Yellow Paint - Rust-Oleum 7747830 Stops Rust Spray Paint, Gloss Yellow - The shocks arrived were very dull yellow, so repainted a bright yellow 6. Paint for rear leaf springs - POR-15 45404 Semi-Gloss Black Rust Preventive Paint - 1 Quart I will tackle the rear lowered this afternoon, then maybe the front this Saturday. Here are the pre-lowering photos.

Started to collect decals for the truck. Spencer at http://www.jeepsticker.com/ did a great job to replicate the old school Jeep Motorsport decals for me. Here are the others I have collected so far, shocks and tires. Hoping to add EngineTech (Lifters and valve train parts), Prothane (poly bushings), and E3 (sparkplugs). I have emailed these companies to see what they can send me. Still, need the numbers decals, but have narrowed down to 14 or 68. Any favorites out there that have a SCCA Jeep race truck significance?

The poly bushings are all in, new Monrow Gas Shocks (shorter F150 in front and Toyota Tundra sized in back - these are 3" shorter than stock shocks), and still missing one shorter XJ rear shackle. Business trip to Phoenix this week so will have to tackle the lowering next weekend. Did continue on the body, 28 years of being a work truck has lots of small dings and dents, mainly on the rear bed. Also measured the current fender height to compare to the lowered.

In addition to sorting out the front air dam, I am planning a cleaner look than the tubular rear bumper. Here are ones I like the looks of, thoughts? My favorite is on the yellow truck.

Planning on a tan and black paint theme, then I can leave the original sand color the same. Here is my bad "photoshop" version. Also thinking maybe a black & tan mixed interior, any thoughts? Black dash with everything else remaining tan?

Started work on swapping out the dash cluster for a full gauge version, that I found on Craigslist for $40. Sorted out all the zombie wires hanging loose, 5 of the 6 were not connected to anything, just passed PO wiring gone bad.

Not much progress today. The poly bushings did not show up yet so I did not do any suspension work. The spark plug wires arrived from RockAuto last week but are the wrong ones. Need to check all the parts I ordered to make sure they are what I ordered. I changed the oil and started some body work. Painted the lowering blocks and u-bolts with black POR-15. I did get the new tires - 215/40r17 - mounted on 17" rims. Can not wait to see it the truck lowered with these wheels!

The starting point for my '89 Jeep Comanche SCCA Retro Race Truck Project! It is a 1989 2WD 2.5L 4-Speed Short Bed California Truck with 243,00 miles. Body is straight and rust free, but the interior is a mess. Engine starts and runs well, expect for a lifter ticking. This weekend's work 1. Change Fluids and Filters 2. New plugs, wires, and distro cap/rotor 3. Check lifters 4. Pass CA smog check...#@$%* 5. Lower back 3" - change bushings to poly - 2" lowering blocks and shorter Cherokee shackles 6. Swap out dash gauge cluster to full gauge cluster with new oil and temp sensors 7. Remove the six wires "not connected" to anything, just hang out from under the dash. Or maybe that is why the radio does not work? Starting point video: https://youtu.be/L-XMvcR01sg

Thank you

Just purchased a 1989 2.5L 2wd and sorting out wiring issues. Under the hood, it appears a coolant sensor has no connector and an electrical wire taped off. Can anyone share a pic of their '89 2.5l engine or identify this wire for me and what plugs in the coolant sensor? thank you - Bruce

My windshield was replaced today. Found a service online and a local guy came over and installed. Payment was online and very happy with the job. The price was $199 with free mobile install service. Ordered on a Thursday and install the next Monday morning. https://jmcautoglass.com/windshield-replacements/jeep/coma/

My local windshield shop has a windshield for a 1990-1992 Jeep Comanche, mine is 1986. Will that fit? thanks