mrmel2you

That's what I found out so far, everything is different on the MJ and XJ. Decided to try and go with 1" angle iron, bolted to the sliders on the XJ seats and then bolt them to the MJ mounts. Looks promising so far, but clearance is really tight for bolting the mounts back on the floor. Have to make a slight notch in the front mount for clearance for the slider handle on both mounts, but all in all it just might work (fingers and toes crossed on this project) LOL :)

Needing some input/info on this one. Just bought a pair of '98 XJ buckets, took the mounts/sliders off----pulled the bench out and took the mounts/sliders off. Looked them both over before and after taking them apart, and I see no way to make these buckets work. Don't know if it's something that I am overlooking, or if it's because it can not be done. Any help/info on this will greatly help me out (pics would be excellent). Many many thanks in advance. Would really love to be able to use these seats. Gray leather wrapped, complete with belts/mounts/trim pieces, and look like new----only paid $50 for the pair :)

Found this out the hard way; If you decide to purchase front disc brake caliper(s) from "Rock Auto", here's a very important tip for 2 wheel drive models. In their parts listing is 2 numbers, 11-4181 and 11-4182. 4181 is listed as being for the right front and 4182 as being for the left front. Both listings also state "Mounting may be reversed"---what they really mean is this; 4181 is for the LEFT side, not the right side-----4182 is for the RIGHT side, not the left side. For some unknown reason my computer in the shop was not able to bring up the pictures on the listing. So I ordered what I assumed was the right front caliper, I had already bought the left front caliper locally (could have gotten the right front one, but would have taken almost 2 weeks to arrive). I had the 4181 caliper expedited and had it in 2 days, only to find out I now had 2 left front calipers. I got online with Rock Auto, using my laptop, and then I was able to see the pictures in their listing------felt like a real dope. But then again, their pictures plainly show a left front caliper as listed for the right front and vice versa for the right front showing a left front caliper. Golden rule of thumb---always double check BEFORE ordering anything online, LOL :)

"Coathanger", if it wasn't for me investing so much $$$$$ into "The Beast" already----that $1,500 would have sounded sweet to me :) But alas, the more I drive it----the better I like it, LOL :) So far I have replaced f&r shocks, rebuilt the TBI (new injector and regulator also) complete new brake system on the front (rear setup is on order) new f&r tires, have new steering and front suspension arms/ball joints/center link/etc. on order and ordering new complete exhaust tomorrow. Next on the agenda will be new doors, fenders, floor pans and carpet------then get started on body work and paint :) Would love to put in buckets and console from an XJ in it----maybe later on down the road. Sister's boyfriend came over and laid on some weld on the front sliders, took about an hour and a half to grind them down------brakes work like a charm now :)

Didn't notice any "divots" in the mounts, but if I can get break in the weather tomorrow (raining here) I will check it out again. Matched up the pads as they came off :) Thanks for all the help and input fellas, it's greatly needed :) Gotta love this club, it's totally AWESOME :) Papa Mel out----it's past his bed-time, LOL :)

"gogmorgo", All the parts I bought and used---matched up with the ones that came off it :) Calipers never stuck on it before I replaced the brakes. Pistons slid back nice and easy, no problem there. Wheel bearings took care of the slight shimmy in the frontend (between 45-70mph). Maybe it just needs a "burn-in" period for everything to settle in? Had a similar issue with my '85 Cutlass Supreme, calipers stuck for about the first 20 miles and cleared up :) Replaced calipers/pads/wheel bearings/grease seals all at the same time on it. Something told me I should have rebuilt the calipers while I had the MJ tore down :( Kickin' my butt now :)

Just replaced (both sides) front rotors, wheel bearings, grease seals, brake pads----now the calipers on the front are sticking, causing the brakes to drag. Both front rims are very hot to the touch, have not noticed any smoking from the pads, but you can surely smell them when you stop at a light or stop sign. Will try my hand at rebuilding them----before shelling out more $$$$ for new/rebuilt ones. Man, if it isn't one thing with "The Beast"---it's another, LOL :) Seems I was right on choosing to name her "The Beast"-----she's sure been a beast to me lately :)

"87Warrior"---I'm located in SE Topeka :) Blocked off the EGR valve, shortened and capped the vacuum line-----starts and runs like a dream :) The idle is so smooth, putting my hand on the side of the cab----can't feel no vibration or anything. Not too shabby for a $200 beater that had a busted exhaust valve :)

I'm here in Kansas and haven't heard of any "pipe-sniffing" being done around here (on used vehicles) :) Took her out for a spin out on Highway 70 East, heard just a bit of rattling (sounded like it was right under my butt) then I heard a loud clunk and then the exhaust got loud, looked in the rear view mirror and seen the muffler going end-over-end over a guard rail and down in a ditch, never did find it :( Now I have a big gaping hole between 2 pipes that I need to fill in, LOL :) I swear, if wasn't for bad luck----I wouldn't have any luck at all. Just get one problem nipped in the bud----and something else goes to crap :( The joys of owning a great MJ :)

What's up with this? "Old" EGR-----vacuum line connected, idles like crap, floods out, unplug and cap the vacuum line---runs perfect. Replaced the EGR valve, vacuum line connected, idles like crap, floods out, unplug and cap the vacuum line----runs perfect. Can I do away with the EGR valve altogether (block-off plate) and just cap the vacuum line? Starts up fine and runs great when warm (vacuum line disconnected) just don't know how well it will start up when cold (winter is coming up). Any input out there? Many many thanks to all for all the help on "The Beast's" issues so far :) Could not have gotten this far without all help and info here in "ComancheClub" Love this group :)

I replaced all vacuum lines/pcv/EGR and MAP sensor. When I replaced the vacuum lines, I replaced them one at a time so as not to get them crossed, so I know that much is right :) The EGR valve was stuck (rusted) open and the gasket wasn't much better. MAP sensor was toast. After I did all this, truck ran great for 3 days, but had a slight stumble whenever I came to a stop---but leveled out within a few seconds. Now whenever I come to a stop it stumbles and floods itself out (intake has fuel puddling badly in the bottom). (2.5 with 4 speed manual trans) I checked and re-tightened both the intake and exhaust manifold bolts, did not make any difference.

'90 MJ, 2.5l w/ TBI (single injector) I rebuilt the TBI unit, new injector/regulator/fuel filter. Runs awesome, plenty of power, does not want to idle for crap (keeps loading up and dies whenever I stop at a light/sign). About at my wits end with this, it's worse now than it was before I did all this work :(

Looking for a good passenger side door manual window regulator. The one in "The Beast" finally gave it's last roll-up performance today, LOL :) Let me know how much and cost of shipping (Topeka, Ks. 66607). Many many thanks in advance, Papa Mel

Here's a tip for when you replace your shocks (or whatever else); On the ends of the studs/bolts---put a small dab of wheel-bearing grease on it, then find a small piece of rubber tubing that will fit snug over it. Trim it to just cover the end of the threads. Next time you replace them, pull off the tubing and your thread ends are clean and lubed. Have been meaning to post this for a while now, been doing this for years and it has really saved me a ton of time. Works for other applications also, but not on any exhaust system related parts, LOL :) Another small tip; I've always double nutted the upper shock studs, actually have had them work loose----but not anymore.

I have a '90 Comanche (2.5l/ 4 speed manual) and the console I have is like the one on the left (short one). Would love to get ahold of a longer one though. Would give me some room for some switches and USB ports :)

One thing nobody mentioned----always replace the "in-line" filter (almost always located near the charging taps). I've been an AC tech for a good number of years, R12 was great in it's day, lower pressure---cold AC. Then they came out with R134a, safer for the enviroment, needed a little higher pressure to really cool things off. They do have retro-fit kits to convert from an R12 system to R134a. You have to change the pressure switch, all o-rings, filter, dryer, hoses (R134a is thinner than R12 and needs more pressure, thus it will bleed out of the hoses--fact). The evaporator (if not damaged) will be fine as long as you flush it with an AC line flush (available at any parts store). I have changed hundreds of vehicles over from R12 to R134a (mine included) and have had no problems.

Not sure how many this will help, but here goes my 2 cents worth. I took the door panels off The Beast today to put some speakers in. While I had the panels off I decided to clean them up a bit. Started off with just some soap, water and sponge----didn't work out too well. I then tried one of old time favorites, 409 and a sponge----still wasn't satisfied. What really worked out super, we all have a can of GOOP hand cleaner laying around, right? I used that with a knuckle brush, scrubbed the heck out of it. Wiped the panels off with some paper towels, then sprayed them with 409, wiped them off with more paper towels. Then I sprayed on some vinyl protectant spray (like Amour All) and wiped it off with yet some more paper towels. Let me tell ya, I thought I had dark grey panels when I started cleaning, but afterwards----they are light gray, and look and feel almost new. Only took about 20 minutes to do both panels---and it was worth it :) Can't wait to finish the rest of The Beast now :) Happy Trails everyone :)

Sorry I haven't got back to ya, but I had already found one. Thank you again :)

I am looking for a driver side mirror (sail mount, manual remote) black painted. Due to being on SS, no $$$$ until the 3rd, hopefully not a problem. All JYs around here have been picked clean :( Many thanks in advance, Papa Mel Happy Trails everyone :) (will be needing a few more items later on) :)

Thank you "MJ Junkie", That's what was causing all the rattling I have been hearing when I close the door, LOL :) No telling how long it has been broken, need to get this fixed as well. Thank you for the links also, pinpointed it :) Papa Mel, Happy Trails everyone :)

I pulled the driver side door panel off, to replace the mirror, and found this laying in the bottom of the door. I have no idea what it is or what/where it was attached to. Anyone have any ideas? http://i.imgur.com/n2vBZLO.jpg http://i.imgur.com/V1pEF4w.jpg

I was thinking the same thing, the antenna. The original AM/FM radio was doing the same thing, so I replaced the antenna and cable---no effect whatsoever. That prompted me to replace everything; radio, speakers, wiring etc... Really want to get this sorted out so I can actually enjoy driving my MJ, after fixing everything else (steering column, rebuilding the head, fixing the exhaust, shocks etc...).

Having issues with a new stereo install I put in over the weekend. I put in a new JVC unit (AM/FM/CD) has Pandora, IHeart and is sat' ready. Installed new rear speakers and dash speakers, new wiring also (speakers and head unit). My issue is this; when listening to the radio--the speakers sound like they are shorting out, lot of static sounds. But, when listening to anything that I plug into it--phone, MP3 player, SD card, USB stick---they all sound awesome through the speakers. I checked and cleaned all the connections, ran all new ground and supply wires, checked the polarity on all speaker wires, everthing is as it should be. I'm at a loss on this one. Anyone have any other ideas? Many many thanks to all in advance, Papa Mel Happy Trails everyone :)

We must be one of the lucky one's, as far as the 2.7 supposedly being such a bad engine. Wife's 300 (2010 Touring) has 46,000 miles on it, with no problems whatsoever. Has plenty of power, keeps up with the best of 'em on the highway. Handles great, runs great, super great on mpg, could not want a better car. We live in Topeka, Ks. and our grandkids live in Oskaloosa, Ia., about a 4 1/2 hour trip. We gas up here, go there and drive around for the weekend and back home, mind you now we are driving with the ac on, cruising 75-80mph from there to KC, Mo. and home----round trip on only 3/4 tank of gas. Regular maintenance, oil changes, tuneup, belts, filters (air and cabin) tire rotations/wheel balance etc... The car is a real joy to have and drive (and the looks from others on the road---priceless) guess it helps when it's black and minimal chrome---it's a real head turner :)

Thank you for the link "benjy_26" will have to check into it and give it a try :) Hopefully it will help me out :)