Troubador530

This is the seat from my old MJ. I know the guy that posted this. The stuff it is sitting on probably isnt for sale. He put buckets in it is the only reason he posted the seat.

That's normal for my 87. It gets about like this sitting at stoplights in the heat. As soon as i get moving it drops to normal. Never had a problem

I got all of mine at oreileys. Like $7 a piece

Where can i find an upgraded headlight harness? I have searched and can't seem to find any. I want to upgrade that when i fix the headlight switch connector so i don't have to worry about it anymore.

Yes it was a little bit, i fixed the melted wire though. Could it still be shorting somehow?

Yes both new ones i got were from oreilley and the one that was in it appears to be aftermarket as well. Maybe i will snag one out of the local yard.

The dash lights work. I havent tried it with the cluster pulled, everything else yes.

Yes i have tried two brand new switches, and my old switch.

When i do that, everything works as it should. Also if i pull the switch out very quickly, it will not blow the fuse, but if i stop at the first click either turning them on or off, it blows the fuse.

Mine doesnt have a chime module, i see the connector for one, but it is not present. Also the clock works fine, so i never took it apart. Maybe i should. The connector for the reverse lights looks like it was melted down to nothing. Should i cut it off and cap the wires for now?

Yes, it is a sportruck, but it has full guages. Tach, temp guage, battery voltage, oil pressure, everything, but the previous owner said the cluster was replaced.l at some point. I'm not sure if it has the delay or not. It doesnt seem to. It does have the fuse slot for one though. Where would it be if i did have one? Could this mess of a connector that goes on the transmission have anything to do with my issue?

Okay, I have unplugged all bulbs in the front and it still blows. I did find that there is a little connector hanging under the truck that i think goes to the transmission for the reverse lights, it looks like it has been melted beyond recognition, it has a few wires into a plug with a jumper between two of the pins. And two wires short of the connector with male spade connectors on them. I'm sorry to have so many questions, I'm new to commanches, and this is supposed to be my daily, but I can't seem to figure out this short. Its only on the running light portion of the headlight switch.

I have pulled the inst. lamps fuse and it still blows. I will try disconnecting the front lights tomorrow, the plug is near the front of the air box right? Also i have tried 2 brand new headlight switches. All of them with the same result.

I have tried 3 different headlight switches, it blows the park fuse on the first click. If i pull it out all the way, then insert the fuse, all the lights work, including sidemarkers and dash lights which didnt work before replacing one of the front park light sockets. So I'm making progress? I think??

Well i have two switches, could i have blown up the new switch when i replaced it before fixing some of the connections?

I found out that if i pull the headlight switch all the way on, then put in the fuse, all of my exterior lights work, but if i put the fuse in first and then pull the switch out, it blows as soon as i hit the first click.

I have refreshed the tail light ground and the dash ground. The previous owner really beat the crap out of this thing, and the whole underside is just covered in oil, dirt, clay and anything you can imagine. I'm probably going to have to trace the rear lighting circut all the way forward to check for exposed wires and such. But I'm still wondering if a short in the tail light wiring could cause no dash/interior lights, and wipers.

With the plug disconnected it still blows the fuse. But on another note I noticed that the wire for the backup lights (brown and white) before the plug is just hanging there. I can't figure out where it goes. There is no slot for it in the plug. The license plate light wires are a mess, when i get some wire i will re do all of those. I have a hard time believing that a short way back here could affect dash lights and wipers.

I replaced the headlight switch, and found the brown wire burnt up in the connector. So i cut it and replaced the female connector on it and stuck it back into the harness. Now when i try to turn on the headlights it blows the park fuse. I'm so confused. What I haven't done is refresh the taillight ground because the screw is stripped and i have no power tools. Could this be the cause? I have had the dash all torn apart for a week now and I'm not getting anywhere.

Check your ignition switch. On top of the steering column under the dash. I bet this is the culprit.

I just know that i will break the window taking it out. So i think that i will let a professional handle it. I'm just excited that i even found what i needed in a pick n pull for $5! Plus a headliner board, interior cab lights, and a perfect tailgate thats even the right color.

I was afraid of that. I have never done that before.

I scored a new middle glass for my rear window, can i install it without taking the whole window out?

After 2 afternoons of fiddling without a test light, i got the turn signals working except the driver tail (driver tail light is totally dead), but i still have no dash lights, tail lights, or windshield wipers. I started to improve the instrument panel ground as per cruiser's tips, but i cannot locate the 8mm stud near the fuse block. I can't find any decent place to ground it. I'm stumped. The fuse block is in good condition, i replaced every single fuse just to be sure.

Do you think that a bad ground could cause all that stuff to be dead? Because its supposed to rain soon and i need those wipers!