azscott

Like this thread has not come up lately...haha! Living in Phoenix it is a long while before you NEED heat..but I need it now...and I ain't got it. However this does not look to be too comlplicated. I assume the vacuum actuated valve in the heater lines that sits just above the charcoal cannister is the control valve to let hot water into the heater core. I have hot water up to this vacuum valve but not past it. This is where the T is to go up to the expansion bottle. I am not sure if the valve is cr@p or the vacuum is not making it to the valve and I guess not as I don't feel any vacuum on the line. Irregardless though....can the valve just be removed.....and if so what are the downsides. The one I could see is that you would have hot water flowing into the core during summer when you use AC. This is what happens on my Super Duty F-250....ther eis alwyas hot water running in and as such the AC temp is reduced by 25 degrees. I suppose I could use a ball valve in place of the heater control valve. I could just turn the valve on manually when we hit winter and then shut it off when summer comes..which is April anyway. I ask this all as I do not have time this week to rip into the dash and see where the vacuum comes from that opens the HCV....if someone knows let me know for future repairs. I would guess there is yet ANOTHER vacuum leak...I have fixed over a a dozen so far....but until I find it I need to rig heat and at the moment it ain't making it past that valve in the hot coolant lines in the engine. scott

...yah tell me about it. I just figured this issue out. I kept hearing a regular clicking noise from my rear end....man I thought something was going south or at the very least maybe some bad U-joints. At first I could not find anything looking underneath. FInally I crawled under there again and finally saw that the cable was hitting one of the tire weights....it had almost cut through the cable sheath and had worn off part of the weight. I just zip tied the cable to the leaf spring enough to keep the cable an inch or two off the rim. .....now I have to have the tire rebalnced. scott

..not looking to do an HO swap...I am satisfied with my Renix. So..it looks like only a couple years with a Renix 4.0 AND an AX-15. That is cool....they come around...I see em quite a bit on Craigs. scott

...what year range would be best. So, I have an 89 Comanche Sport, 4.0, 5 speed Ba-10. Instead of constant running back and forth to a junk yard..and competeing with everyone else looking for what I am looking for...I am thinking of just getting a Cherokee as a parts vehicle. I would want the seats...so a 2 door would be best...obviously the Transmission Ax-15...correct....and maybe down the road the engine but not sure if I really care to put an HO in it. Plus I would use any spare parts of it I could and then jumk the rest of the vehicle once I rape. Just so much easier to have a parts car sitting 6 feet away. With that said what years of the Cherokee are the best for using as a parts vehicle. What year did they stop puting the Puegot in them and swap to the Ax-15. Were there any years in the early 90's that they still had a Renix 4.0 but without the Puegot in it? scott

On the Renix 4.0 it is also straightforward...the menu prompts you all the way through. It even has a help function you can press mid stream to tell you what to do. I played with mine by scrolling through the menu's and seeing what each did..also which functions are active. On the Renix only about half of the tests are active. The main value to me was being able to do the engine test...and being able to see rwal time all of the sensors and how each was operating. To do the TPS calibration via the DRB-II you will need a special probe...I did not have one with mine..but if you have a kit from a dealer you will have it. I wish i had the probe as the method that people always tell you to do here is not the prefereed method in the maual and mine will idle high if I do the short cut method. Scott

...oh I have ordered from Team Cherokee....just some of their parts are way out there in prices.......?

...looks like they have them I will assume they are the forward run channels.....certainly more reasoanble at 35.00 each than 99.00 each at teamcherokee

...ohhh...it is just pure muscle power...I was afraid to try that....that was how i figured out on another car, it had a clip...haha. scott

I have taken off door panels before on many different cars and usually, if you have manual crank windows, there is a C clip that holds the crank handle on...pop that off and the handle comes off. But I hav been fighting for an hour and I can't see how to get these window handles off. I can't see anything behind the handle and there is no screw that is hidden on the front. Someone has to have fought with these before...I don't want to break something figuring it out. Must be simple but I am missing it. scott

...yes...at $100.00 a piece...and you need one for each door...so 200.00 for two pieces of window channel.

..no this is the forward channel piece the window runs it..it is the piece that is between the vent window and the roll down window. I know I read someone using one from JCW but not sure which style works. The weatherstrip piece on the rea of the window and the the upper portion are a rubber strip...that I can get from JCW or anyone else..it is the forward piece that is different...but I think I will just get the same style as the rubber weatherstrip that is used on the rest of the window and do it that way. scott

I read the thread below on this...but has anyone got a direct link to an aftermarket solution for the window wiper rubbers and that forward pillar piece. The website that offers the OEM ones is way to expensive for me,.,,,the pillars are like 99 each piece. I know JCW carries the channel rubbers..if anyone has used them which style is it Mine are so far gone I just have little schnibblets of it left Trying to find one in a junk yard is pointless as anything in AZ is dry rotted. Any alternative solution si fine....mine ar so rotted out the window ratlling is driving me nuts. scott

...I just ordered the custom fit vinyl flooring. I use the truck for prospecting trips so i am in and out of the truck all time and drag a tone of sand and junk in...think I will see if the vinyl lasts better...the sand just eats up the carpet. Thanks for all the recomendations. I will have to swing over to JoAnns and look at the headliner stuff....good idea...did not think of them scott

...I was looking at the vinyl floor from them....since I am offroad half the time maybe it would be better than carpet. carpet sure gets beat on from all the sand and dirt. scott

Just curious if anyone has a good place to get replcement carpet for the Comanche. I pulled mine up to check the floors...which where still like new ( hey Arizona what can you say...7 inches of rain annualy)...and since the carpet is junk I might as well replace it. Certainly plenty of places carry it but maybe some here have had good and bad experiences with quality and fit. scott

Maybe someone has one left over from a bucket seat center console swap. I need the shifter console for an mj with a 5 speed/ 4x4 with buckets seats. Don't care about color...just as long as it is in useable shape. scott

....anyone know where I can get a new or aftermarket center console for a Comanche with bench seats and a 5 speed w 4x4. I tried the local pick and pull but no luck. The one in my Comanche was replaced with some cheasy wooden POS thing that has fallen apart and I am having a bugger of a time finding one. Dos not have to beoriginal OEM...as long as it works...could be from a differetn year Cherokee whatever. My pick n pull only had like 3 cherokees. scott

Finally got it all replaced...T-stat, pump, radiator, hoses, belt. Temp holds fine like it should. prior it would run cool on the hiway but at idle it would jump over 210 and the fan would kick in and out...which is normal but...it would get real hot. I know the T-stat was stuck open...which is why it would run cold on the hiway...which causes me a bit of an mpg drop. Plus the coolant system was leaking everywhere...radiator..pump...hoses...nothing huge but little weeping. I took it out for an hour toodling around offroad in 1st gear to see if it would spike intemp like it used too and this time had no problmes. pretty muc h hold just below 210 like it should ( 195 Tstat). I am just not a big fan of having to run a lower temp Tstat. The engine was designed to run at 195 or so. Of course while doing all of this and having all the stuff ripped out I discovered a few more issues. Pretty good exhaust manifold leaks....bummer..but not an issue at the moment. Shoot...I own 2 Pathfinders and that is something you just learn to accept. On the other hand I found a leak in the intake manifold...kinda by accident...pretty sure that it is leaking. That would explain the erratic idle I have been chasing like..forever. Plus the 3 vacuum lines that run to the shift motor were cracked..2 were completely broek off ( the green and yellow)...not sure how it shifted in and out of 4wd...or maybe it never did)...fixed those leaks. With all the vacuum leaks this thing had I surprised it could even run...no wonder why my AC keeps swapping to vent when I accelerate. Maybe NOW it will stop doing that...this is like the 10 leak I have fixed. scott

....kinda what I was thinking.....cool. I will cancel the Flowkooler and just get one from Napa. Oh..I didn't mean that I think it will run hot at idle with a new OEM style...rather that it was currently running hot with the OEM one. I actually think the issue has little to do with the pump but...sometimes if you read enough adds...you waste money unnecessarily!!! Thanks Eagle. scott

Well got my water pump off....found that the radiator was also leaking...so gonna replace em both plus Tstat and hoses. Question is...has anyone used the hi flow coolant pumps like Flowkooler...verses just replacing it with OEM style. I had ordered a Flowkooler but now they are back ordered for casting and I need to get this running and really don't want to wait another week or two for a pump. So I don't mind replcaing it with an OEM it is just that it would run very hot at idle. Certainly could be due to a other issues like a failing fan clutch..which I will replace also since I am this far into it. I don't want to go with a cooler Tstat as the ECU is designed to have the engine run at 190. Maybe a 180 Tstat is fine but nothing lower. My engine runs best at or near 190. Any thoughts. scott

...well understandable but still...the main question was...does anyone know if there is a way to tell which one you have without yaking it out first. I amagine the answer is..no...since the hub is behind the pulley and the pulley coversa the hub. But..was hoping someone had a way to tell before I yank it and have it down for a few days waiting? For instance maybe if you do or do not have say..AC is what makes the difference in hub height as it changes the pulley distance from the motor to account for aC or not. Sometimes that is the alternate way to tell.....although I am making it up as an example. scott

...well this was at the local parts store...and they just look at the specs. They don't have one on hand...it was a Napa and they have to get one from the wharehouse. So..they just said which hub height did I have....the moron behind the counter has no clue what to measure..he is just reading off the computer screen. I was just looking at FlowKoolers and they also state the hub diameter is different so it look slike the diam isthe easiest to measure since it is right there. Hub height was where I was not sure where they measured from. I figured just order one from FlowKooler rather than Napa? scott

SO..I go to order a new water pump as mine is leaking out the weap hole...and they ask which one. Gee...not sure...the one for an 89 Comacnhe 4.0.... Yah...I know...which hub height? Oh....poop...not sure. So...can I measure the height while the pump is still installed and to what are they measuring it to. Is it from the mounting base of the pump to the top surface of the hub that the fan bolts to? I want to order it before I pull the old pump...so I can still drive for now. Want to put in a FLowKooler as it gets a bit warm at low offroad speeds. scott

Which one....there are two. One is pictured above and is used by the gauge...the other one is used by the ECU and it is the on the drivers side block just around the motor mount I believe...just above the knock sensor...

Surface rust will come back if it is not prep properly. I am not sure if you are just trying to cover up an area or painting an entire vehicle...however the method that insures success the best is to obviously remove the surface rust first via sanding or grinding....obviously. The next step I use ( for bare metal) is to prep the sruface with Duponts Quick Prep. It is a mild solution of Phosphuric Acid and Alcohol I believe. This converts any micro rust left behind into something...I forget...but acids nuetralizes any small surface rust. Also the quick prep seems to prep the surface or soften it a bit in prep for the primer. Use with a self etching primer like below and surface rust will not come back and the primer will actually be etched into the surface of the metal slightly...it really makes a tough primer coat. trust me...I have done this many times. Next is to use a self etching primer.....Dupont makes 1K...that is available in a spray can at most good auto paitn stores...or the PO 15 is fine also. As long as it is a self etching primer. Fail to do step one and usually you will get rust bleed back in a year or two. When done right I have not seen rust come back even after 5 or more years living in NH. Now that is surface rust only. If you have through rust and rot it has to be cut out and a patch welded in. scott