co-MAN-che

I appreciate the link, I will certainly grab some and fix what I can

PROBLEM SOLVED the busbar is in fact broken in multiple points. I believe I will need a new fusebox, for multiple circuits are down for the same reason. reintroduced power to the circuit directly and everything works as its supposed to. Looking into the fusebox and there is not much left in way of power distribution across the circuits.

so based off what you said and the wiring diagram (thank you for the download by the way), I will double check the radio and blower motor function. They worked when another posted on this thread to try them, but having lost interior lights last night, it has me concerned enough to try again. depending on the results, could it mean the bus bar itself is faulty?

Ok, I pulled the fuse block off the firewall, and there appears to be a missing wire from the 20a TURN B/U fuse. There are 2 yellow wires leading from one tab of the fuse to the flasher, but the other tab (where the contact fell out) has no evidence of a broken wire, as in no broken contact base or corrosion. This makes me thing I was mistaken in my original post for the signals couldn't have worked in the first place. Now I wonder what other wire is supposed to be hooked to that fuse. 12 volt power or is that a signal wire from the turn signal lever on the column? I'm going to get the alligator clip leads out and see if I can reconstruct the circuit with the help of a wiring diagram to test my theory. If i can snag a decent picture I'll post it to try to better explain what I'm seeing

I'll have to see how I can replace the little terminals in the block then. You did read it correctly earlier, the contacts did in fact fall out of the block when I pulled the TURN B/U fuse, so I won't be working with much but I'll see what I can perhaps make work with whats left. I'll be revisiting the page here as anything new develops

I've heard of that issue, and I looked for that when I bought it. All seems dry and leak free in my hands, but that.s not to say it didn't happen in the past. While I've got the fuse block off I'll be seeing what other circuits could have been affected and try to plug a fusible link into its place

Things I've accomplished today: finished up with cleaning and inspecting connectors and grounds replaced signal bulb socket driver side. verified its wired correctly. correct filament illuminates with hazards on and now flashes in time with the rest Things I've learned today: No b+ with key on turn flasher flashers slow down and eventually stop flashing after approx. 30 minutes. Battery is charged and flashers are new. fuse terminals for 20 amp TURN B/U fuse fell out of the fuse block, but had no power before after much probing with multimeter and test light, nothing indicates there is power going to or coming from the turn signal switch, like the circuit is completely dead. hazards still work lost interior dash lights tonight as well. Don't know if from me probing or if the issue is compounding whether headlights are on or off, problem persists. No green arrows light up under any circumstances unless hazards are on Lads & Gents, really getting close to just running new leads and fuses for everything. I hate to just hotwire stuff to work, but I'm nearing the end of my rope

Front Lighting connector has been cleaned and current tested. With Hazards on (all blinkers still work under the 4-ways) I noticed the driver side blinker socket was out of time with the rest, and that dual filament bulb was having the wrong filament illuminate. Flipped the bulb around and squared that away, but that makes me wonder if you should be able to turn those bulbs like that, given their little locking pins are at different heights. Maybe the socket is pooched? Still have grounds to clean and check. Will double check wiring connectors under the dash too. Perhaps the signal switch itself could have a broken contact being 33 years old. Will leave that for last because I don't have a locking plate depresser

all those work as supposed to.

Alright I will certainly get to this. I'll go ahead and place a little bit of fresh dielectric grease in each connection once I clean it.

Hey all, it's been almost 4 years since I had a comanche, and I must say my new acquisition isn't being cooperative. Turn signals worked when I looked at it day of purchase, now only about 2 weeks later, neither left nor right signals work. New fuses, both flasher relays under the dash are new, all new bulbs except headlights throughout. Hazard flashers work however. Arrows in dash light up when hazards are on. Nothing, not even relay clicking when I switch either left or right turn signal. Attempted with just key on run and vehicle engine running, neither produce a result. Heard about fluid leaking from the clutch master cylinder down to the fuse box, mine does leak but fuse box appears dry. Is there a plug or other fuse and/or relay I'm missing? All bulbs are new incandescent. Thanks in advance.

Yup, mine is lwb for sure

I have a long bed. I appreciate you being polite in getting me up to speed

1991 Comanche pioneer, Non-renix. High output 4.0. I'll get on that signature

Color me stupid but I don't know what those acronyms mean in reference to the hoist

After soaking multiple days in penetrating oil, I took it apart to see what the problem was, and the internals were so damaged from rust and debris that it's not worth putting back together. Also looking for the tube that extends from it to crank up and down

Whats that place called

I am running LT 235/75r15 nexen roadian mt's. Steel Ford style wheels

Truck would start then immediately stop. Friend's father took a paper clip and jumped the auto shutdown relay and that was the most recent fix to the most recent problem of noteworthy severity

Never give up if the truck is proving more stubborn than you are. There are so many people here that know what they're doing that even failed attempt after failed attempt doesn't mean the truck is permanently broke down. Just try EVERY. SINGLE. SUGGESTION and the solution, even if oddball as all get out, will be reached. I was one chain away from scrapping mine until the father of a friend (who worked 30 years as a jeep dealership mechanic) took a paperclip and fixed my most recent severe issue

That's too much unless I chopshop some B.S. with the shackles. 6 inches and I'll have to start worrying about universal joints, breather hoses and the steering components

Zanesville. I go to Cambridge, Newark/Hebron/heath, Columbus, new lex, Utica, Columbus, coshocton as well for junkyards but not a one has had a comanche

Oh ---- really? I was hoping for 3-4. 5-6 is a little too high unless that's my only option. Thanks for the heads up

After soaking multiple days submerged in penetrating oil, and even overnight in an electrolysis tank, I got impatient and tried to force it to raise and lower the cable, and it literally fell apart, spilling its components over my shop floor. Looked at the parts and the rust and salt and grime had taken such a toll on it that it isn't worth trying to reassemble. Any idea where I can find one remanufactured or is a junkyard my only option? The local junkyards never have Comanches in my part of ohio

Once I decide on the axle that I believe will do what I need it to do, I'll get the mounting figured out, I plan on going spring over instead of under for a little lift. I appreciate the suggestions I have been given thus far and will do my own research on each axle suggested for its manufacturers specs such as load ratings and what not