co-MAN-che

And I plan on keeping that tire size for a while, if I ever go bigger I would cap out at 31 inches

LT235/75r16

In case some basic info about my truck would be of assistance as PeteM asked, its a 4.0 L6, AW4 automatic, np231 transfer case

what I should do is get my gear ratio for my front end so that way I can know my options a little better. If the little tag that is usually on the side of the diff cover is gone, isn't the ratio stamped on the ring gear?

This is the second comanche I've owned and I'm beginning to get a growl out of the rear end. My first one had a nasty roar in the rear axle from when I first bought it to when I sold it in about 2 years time. The axles in question are Dana 35's. I made sure time and time again the correct viscosity oil and correct oil level was present at all times. Since then I've found out these axles are notorious for being weaklings and becoming damaged easily from normal use. I am planning on replacing the dana 35 in my current truck. I'm not trying to build an 8 second quarter miler or ultimax crawler or anything of the sort, I just want a more capable axle to allow my light duty truck to be a capable light duty truck. Haul a 1000lb load in the bed or pull a 1500lb trailer or get a little squirrely in my field after a rainy day. I've narrowed it down to two axles that I believe would suit my purposes best; a Chrysler 8.25 or a Dana 44. I would like other more professional opinions on which one would best suit my needs or if there is another that is a likely candidate that I may have missed. I do understand that gear ratio must be considered for speedo and 4wd compatibility, that the brakes may need to be converted to disc, that pinion angle and alignment do matter, and that the comanche is a spring under and I'm referring to spring over axles. Willing to do the necessary work to make it fit and work properly.

Brownsville Ohio. Let me know if you need my full address to get a more precise quote

How much. And what state in case you might be local so we don't have to worry about shipping

I own a welder. XJ spout it is. Thanks keeping brethren

Rusted so bad the threaded portion twisted off with the cap. Could I make an xj spout work?

In an effort to rebuild my fuel system, I have purchased a new fas tank, sending unit, fuel lines, and filler hoses. One thing I cannot seem to get new, and actually need, is the metal filler spout that is screwed into the side of the bed, where the filler cap itself screws into. Any way or place I can find it? Or maybe if I'm not calling it the correct name and as a result not getting the correct search results.

So terribly sorry about the extremely long delay in responding, but what I concur was that a previous owner was monkeying around with the fuse box, and in an attempt to put it back in, inappropriately crammed the wires back under the fuse box, and so the edge of the fuse box case rubbed the insulation off

Hornbrod, I got trouble code 12, and trouble code 55, which are normal because I plugged a new pcm in within the past 50 keystrokes, but registered no other trouble codes flashed when the problem persisted Comanche County, Brand new distributor, rotor button, cap, wires and plugs because I overdo tune-ups every 1000 miles Jumped 30 to 87 in my ASD relay connector in the fuse box, ran like a charm. found that wires in the bottom side of said fuse box leading to the 87, 87a, and 85 pins were rubbed free of their insulation and sharing continuity. made the necessary fix and solved my issue

Throws no trouble codes to my dismay

My current plans are to rent a Noid light set and see what kind of current I'm getting at my injectors, and to jump my Auto Shutdown relay and see if that corrects my issue. will post results

it's in my information. If it can't be seen for some reason (Or I very well could be mistaking this site for the layout of JeepForum), I have a 1991 jeep comanche 4x4 with the HO 4.0l with AW4 automatic transmission

I have checked everything that I thought could be related to stalling immediately after starting, and have followed all suggestions I have received this far, and have not resolved the issue. I have checked every mounting bolt after I put a fresh gasket on my air intake, along with replacing every vacuum hose on it, have checked map sensor, new throttle body with new IAC system and new TPS, restored power current to the ballast resistor, then bypassed it. Verified I have correct fuel pressure and voltage to fuel pump. Checked auto shutdown circuit. Verified wiring harness at distributor, coil, and alternator is in good shape. Is there ANYTHING I'm missing, please tell me I am.

Thinking about the auto shutdown relay and its associated fuses. Will get back after I check these and post results

went ahead and got a brand new throttle body, IAC motor, valve, sensor, and hose so I didn't have to worry if I got it clean enough. No improvement in performance. still dies immediately after starting

Force fed power to the fuel pump, retested my fuel pressure and it measures at 40 psi. Now it starts but still immediately dies. I can't get my hand out of the drivers window and 2 feet to the throttle body in time to try to hit the IAC with throttle body cleaner to see if it helps any

I'll try to bypass and power it for a moment to see if there is any improvement, then trace it because i need to find where the circuit is compromised anyway

New ignition switch, fuel pump regulator,. If ballast resistor is bypassed there is no improvement in performance

I hear fuel pump working, but I have no current going to the ballast resistor when key is in run position

I have checked my fuel pressure. I have checked my pump and sending unit. I have checked the circuit to the pump and sending unit. I have replaced every relay and fuse associated with the fuel and ignition system. I have replaced every sensor and switch associated with the fuel and ignition system.Is there something I'm missing that could lead the truck to start, idle quite high for 3-4 seconds, then begin to slow down so much in idle speed that it starts shuddering until it utterly dies? I'm starting to think this truck cannot be fixed.

finally got my tranny oil cooler line connector in the mail yesterday. Installed it, verified that the trouble code was not active and went on to start and run the truck thinking this resolved all my hardships. Wrong. My truck runs worse than ever. Idles all day, put it in gear and it stalls out. I can't win

I cleared the codes today, rookie mistake to not think of that when I got the new sensor, but I have to wait for my transmission oil cooler line connector to get here before I can take it down the road and try it and see if it comes back or not.