dj5

just contacted programbo for a set I can get a full set of oem 1-hole injectors with rail for $130 but I don't need a rail and id rather 4-hole injectors... I even went to local u-pull and no Volvos with 746 injectors, I did find 280-155-813 but I didn't want to risk it. there were no renix xj or mj at all whatsoever.

I just printed out the return label they are getting sent out tomorrow :doh:

so I found from looking at my injectors that they sent me bosch FORD injectors part # 280-155-710 but the invoice they sent had 746...anyway, is this why they don't work right? I looked it up and from what I found is that to run these injectors I need a new regulator. is this correct or should they work fine? I want Volvo 746 from all the positive reviews on em so will probably send these back anyway.

alright I'm gonna try cleaning em cus I have a bad misfire in cylinder 1 where injector is leaking so ima put in the new ones and see how it goes 1 more time. if no good, will contact programbo btw the ones I got are bosch 0 280 155 746

I'm thinking of trying to reclean these that I have, what is best way to do so?

I had the same issue in my 95 ford probe after it sat awhile, after 5 fill-ups it slowly stopped doing it...I assumed it was pressure build up in the tank from vapors

I think I'm gonna try to return em and stick with my 1-hole injectors...

said they were cleaned and spray tested before purchase and then cleaned again with some injector cleaner but did not work. they came with new orings and everything... :fs1:

so I did the injector swap. truck ran like crap and wanted to stall if I didn't gas it. misfiring with new injectors and smelled like it was dumping gas. I did reset ecu by leaving terminals disconnected and touched together for 30 seconds put in old injectors and smoothed back out to before... could the injectors just be bad? got em off ebay

:yes:

thanks

I'm curious too as mine is unhooked like that as well.

I know they didn't have manual wj's...will the master cylinder/booster still work good being that I have a manual mj? also does it matter if it is pulled out a v8 or does it need to be the 6 cylinder MC and booster?

what is best year of wj to pull from? or year range at least

Do you have a link to thread?

ya...I'm guessing it maybe rolled off the line in 1990 but is a 89 model with 89 parts? but I feel they would have marketed it as a 1990 if that were the case

Moving Consultant for a nationwide moving and storage company

my vin # lines up perfectly with the 1990 sheet decoder...only difference is where it says L for 1990 model year, mine is a K...which I would assume is 1989 model year and all else on my vin matches perfect for 1990...

is it possible I have a late model 89 so my vin is off because of that? I don't know month my vehicle came off the line because the tag in door jam is completely faded but the vin I provded is straight from my dash and title.

all it says is that my Comanche is 4x2 with 7ft bed and auto floor shift... that is all opposite :hmm:

should I use 96 xj master cylinder as well I assume?

says sorry 10th digit is not a supported model year, must be k,l,g,h... except my 10th digit is a k and says this?...not working 1j7ft66l8kl460303 is my vin

I need a new master cylinder, figure its good of time as any to upgrade as stock braking sucks. what is best year to pull/order a booster and MC from? also is wj or xj parts better for this upgrade? by the way, upgrade is on a 89 Comanche eliminator swb 2wd 5spd 4.0l renix also, what all would I need to do this? Thanks to everyone in advance! :cheers:

second pic looks like Yo Gotti's jeep

by the way, does not necessarily "shake" until about 50mph, before then its the wah wah sound